JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 86 components, as sterols, participate in argan oil cosmetic activity (4). In our physico- chemical analyses indicating a 6-month-limit for argan oil stored at 25°C, we compared the FA and sterol composition of argan oil just after pressing and after 6 months. No signifi cant difference was observed for sterol or FA composition after this period (Table I). Such chemical stability suggests that the dermocosmetic properties of argan oil are fully preserved during the fi rst 6 months of its storage when performed at 25°C. SUMMARY Cosmetic argan oil is often presented as possessing low preservation properties. Storage at various temperatures demonstrate that when argan oil is stored at temperatures up to 25°C its quality can be easily ascertained for 12 months according to the Moroccan norm, and for 6 months according to the cosmetic industry norm. Formation of oxidative spe- cies is the main reason for argan oil instability, far ahead from triglyceride hydrolysis or sterol loss. Storage of argan oil under inert atmosphere or/and at low temperature should increase argan oil shelf life if necessary. To increase argan oil shelf life, the addition of antioxidants could also be considered, but the resulting product would not satisfy the “extra virgin argan oil” labeling anymore. REFERENCES (1) T. J. Lybbert, A. Aboudrare, D. Chaloud, N. Magnan, and M. Nash, Booming markets for Moroccan argan oil appear to benefi t some rural households while threatening the endemic argan forest. Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. USA, 108, 13907–13912 (2011). (2) Z, Charrouf and D. Guillaume, Should the Amazigh diet (regular and moderate argan-oil consumption) have a benefi cial impact on human health? Crit. Rev. Food Sci. Nutr., 50, 473–477 (2010). Table I Sterol and Fatty Acid Composition of Cosmetic Argan Oil Immediately after Cold-Pressing and after 6 Months (1 Year) of Storage Sunlight-Exposed or -Protected Initial 25°C Exposed Protected Sterol (%) Schottenol 46.6 ± 2.5 46.5 ± 3.9 (47.8 ± 4.1) 47.5 ± 3.5 (46.2 ± 2.5) Spinasterol 39 ± 2 36 ± 4 (38.1 ± 6.2) 37 ± 3 (40 ± 4) Stigma-7a 4.2 ± 0.8 5 ± 2 (4.1 ± 1.5) 5 ± 1 (4.3 ± 2.1) Stigma-8a 3.9 ± 0.6 4.1 ± 0.9 (3.8 ± 1.1) 3.8 ± 0.7 (4 ± 1) Campesterol 0.2 ± 0.1 0.1 ± 0.1 (0.2 ± 0.1) 0.2 ± 0.1 (0.2 ± 0.1) Fatty acid (%) Palmitic 13.2 ± 1.5 13.2 ± 1.8 (13.1 ± 2.1) 13.1 ± 2.5 (13.2 ± 1.8) Stearic 5.3 ± 0.4 5.6 ± 0.9 (5.5 ± 1.1) 5.2 ± 0.7 (5.7 ± 1.5) Oleic 48 ± 3 48 ± 4 (48 ± 6) 47 ± 4 (48 ± 4) Linoleic 33 ± 2 33 ± 2 (33 ± 4) 32 ± 2 (33 ± 4) Linolenic 0.1 ± 0.1 0.1 ± 0.1 (0.1 ± 0.1) 0.1 ± 0.1 (0.1 ± 0.1) a Stigma-7: Stigma-7,24-dien-3-ol, Stigma-8: Stigma-8,22-dien-3β-ol.
OXIDATIVE STABILITY OF COSMETIC ARGAN OIL 87 (3) H. El Monfalouti, D. Guillaume, C. Denhez, and Z. Charrouf, Therapeutic potential of argan oil: A review. J. Pharm. Pharmacol., 62, 1669–1675 (2010). (4) D. Guillaume and Z. Charrouf, Argan oil and other argan products use in dermocosmetology. Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol., 113, 403–408 (2011). (5) Z. Charrouf and D. Guillaume, Argan oil: Occurrence, composition and impact on human health. Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol., 110, 632–636 (2008). (6) H. El Monfalouti, Z. Charrouf, M. Giordano, D. Guillaume, B. E. Kartah, H. Harhar, S. Gharby, C. Denhez and G. Zeppa, Volatile compound formation during argan kernel roasting. Nat. Prod. Commun., 8, 33–36 (2013). (7) H. Harhar, S. Gharby, B. Kartah, H. El Monfalouti, D. Guillaume, and Z. Charrouf, Infl uence of argan kernel roasting-time on virgin argan oil composition and oxidative stability. Plant Foods Hum. Nutr., 66, 163–168 (2011). (8) S. Gharby, H. Harhar, D. Guillaume, A. Haddad, B. Matthäus, and Z. Charrouf, Oxidative stability of edible argan oil: a two year study. LWT - Food Sci. Technol., 44, 1–8 (2011). (9) M. Hilali, Z. Charrouf, A. E. A. Soulhi, L. Hachimi, and D. Guillaume, Detection of argan oil adul- teration using quantitative camposterol GC-analysis. J. Amer. Oil Chem. Soc., 84, 761–764 (2007). (10) A. Gonzalvez, S. Armenta, M. Guardia, and M. De La Guardia, Adulteration detection of argan oil by inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectrometry. Food Chem., 121, 878–886 (2010). (11) I. Ourrach, M. Rada, M. C. Pérez-Camino, M. Benaissa, and A. Guina, Detection of argan oil adulter- ated with vegetable oils: new markers. Grasas y Aceites, 63, 355–364 (2012). (12) A. Oussama, F. Elabadi, and O. Devos, Analysis of argan oil adulteration using infrared spectroscopy. Spectrosc. Lett., 45, 458–463 (2012). (13) F. A. E. Mohammed, R. Bchitou, A. Bouhaouss, S. Gharby, H. Harhar, D. Guillaume, and Z. Charrouf, Can the dietary element content of virgin argan oils really be used for adulteration detection? Food Chem., 136, 105–108 (2013). (14) R. Salghi, W. Armbruster, and W. Schwack, Detection of argan oil adulteration with vegetable oils by high-performance liquid chromatography–evaporative light scattering detection. Food Chem., 153, 387–392 (2014). (15) Service de Normalisation Industrielle Marocaine (SNIMA), Huiles d’argane. Specifi cations, Norme ma- rocaine NM 08.5.090 (SNIMA, Rabat, 2003). (16) http://specialchem4cosmetics.com/tds/argan-oil/sictia/11401/index.aspx. Accessed date: January 20, 2014. (17) A. Judde, Prévention de l’oxydation des acides gras dans un produit cométique: mécanismes, con- séquences, moyens de mesure, quels antioxydants pour quelles applications? Oléag. Corps Gras Lipides, 11, 414–418 (2004). (18) M. Hilali, Z. Charrouf, A. El Aziz Soulhi, L. Hachimi, and D. Guillaume, Infl uence of origin and ex- traction method on argan oil physicochemical characteristics and composition, J. Agric. Food Chem., 53, 2081–2087 (2005). (19) S. Gharby, H. Harhar, D. Guillaume, A. Haddad, and Z. Charrouf, The origin of virgin argan oil’s high oxidative stability unraveled, Nat. Prod. Commun., 7, 621–624 (2012). (20) ISO-660: Animal and vegetable fats and oils—Determination of acid value and acidity (2009). (21) ISO-3960: Animal and vegetable fats and oils—Determination of peroxide value—Iodometric (visual) endpoint determination (2007). (22) ISO 3961: Animal fats and vegetable fats and oils—Determination of iodine index (2009). (23) M. E. Carreras, E. Fuentes, C. A. Guzman, Chemotaxonomy of seed lipids of Cucurbitaceae grown in Argentina, Biochem. Syst. Ecol., 17, 287–291 (1989). (24) ISO 3656: Animal fats and vegetable fats and oils—Determination of ultraviolet absorbance expressed as specifi c extinction in ultraviolet light (2002). (25) ISO 5508: Animal and vegetable fats and oils—Analysis by gas chromatography of methyl esters of fatty acids (1990). (26) ISO 6799: Animal and vegetable fats and oils—Determination of composition of the sterol fraction— Method using gas chromatography (1991).
Previous Page Next Page