SENSORY CHARACTERIZATION OF COSMETIC EMULSIONS 87 The majority of the participants were female (78%). Eighty-four percent of the partici- pants were aged between 18 and 29. Ethnicities included Caucasian/White/European (58%), Asian/Pacifi c Islander (30%), and African American/African/Black/Caribbean (8%). An important note is that the majority of consumers (74%) were regular users of hand or body lotions. “Regular” was defi ned as product use at least two to three times a week. This study was approved by the University of Toledo Institutional Review Board (approval number IRB# 201211). CONSUMER TEST First, each consumer was asked to fi ll out a prescreening questionnaire to ensure they were eligible for the study. The prescreening questionnaire’s intent was to gather demo- graphic information, including age group, gender, and race/ethnicity and to identify any exclusion criteria, including skin rashes, calluses on hands/fi ngers, hypersensitivity, tin- gling in fi ngers, any medication use that affects senses, especially touch, and any previous allergic reactions or adverse reactions to any lotions or creams. In addition, the prescreen- ing questionnaire also gathered information about the regularity of skin care product use. If no exclusion criterion was identifi ed, consumers could participate in the study. After providing more details about the study and allowing the participants to ask questions, an informed consent form was signed by each participant. Participants were shown the CATA survey before actually completing it, and had the chance to ask if something was not clear or if they did not completely understand a term. Participants were asked to clean their forearms and hands with a mild skin cleanser of one of the leading brands to remove any products that were present on their skin before the study. After cleaning, they dried their skin thoroughly with nonfragranced, nonmoistur- ized, and nonsoftened absorbent paper towels. The six emulsions were presented to participants in individual plastic jars, and they were asked to evaluate each product on their forearm. Participants were instructed to apply the samples as they typically would in real-world conditions. They were also asked to apply different samples to different areas on their forearm to avoid product build-up or inter- ference between products. In addition, they were asked to fi ll out a paper-based CATA Table III Ingredients and Percentage of Ingredients in the W/O Emulsions Ingredient—INCI name Emulsion 5 Emulsion 6 % (w/w) % (w/w) Heptyl undecylenate 15 10 Olive oil 5 Polyglyceryl-10-hexaoleate (and) polyglyceryl-6-polyricinoleate 1 1 Lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsilcoxyethyl dimethicone 1 1 Water 77 77 Propanediol 5 5 Propylene glycol (and) diazolidinyl urea (and) methyl paraben (and) propyl paraben 1 1
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 88 survey for each product. Testing was administered in a research laboratory under artifi cial daylight type of illumination at room temperature (between 22° and 24°C). CATA SURVEY CATA surveys (Figure 1) were administered to have consumers evaluate sensory proper- ties of emulsions before, during, and after application. First, participants were asked to look at each emulsion in the jar and check characteristics they felt appropriate from the fi rst section of the survey. Then they had to apply each sample to the forearm and fi ll out the second part of the survey. Finally, they had to test the application site again after 3 min and fi ll out the third part of the survey. The CATA survey consisted of a list of 30 words/word groups divided into three groups (i) the fi rst section (six terms) was related to the appearance of the products (ii) the second section (16 terms) was related to the sensory characteristics and skin feel (rub-out, pick- up, and immediate skin feel) provided by the products and (iii) the third section (eight terms) was related to the afterfeel provided by the products after 3 min. When creating the survey and selecting terms, the terminology and words used in the consumer behavior descriptive analysis described in the ASTM E1490-11 guidelines were taken into con- sideration. Participants were asked to select as many words as they felt appropriate to describe each of the products. Similar terms that can be considered synonyms were listed together, such as “thick/ creamy” and “silky/smooth.” The purpose of this type of listing was to decrease the num- ber of terms used and also to make it easier for consumers to select the appropriate terms. In addition, a number of antonym terms were in the CATA survey, for instance, “thick/ creamy” and “thin/milky,” “easy to spread/slippery,” “hard to spread/dragging,” and “light” and “heavy.” Figur e 1. Questions of the CATA survey used in this study.
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