JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 130 (20) M. Korte, S. Akari, H. Kühn, N. Baghdadli, H. Möhwald, and G. Luengo, Distribution and localization of hydrophobic and ionic chemical groups at the surface of bleached human hair fi bers. Langmuir, 30(41), 12124–12129 (2 014). ( 21) C. LaTorre and B. Bhushan, Nanotribological effects of hair care products and environment on human hair using atomic force microscopy, J. Vac. Sci. Technol., 23(4), 1034–1045 (2 005). ( 22) S. Lee, S. Zürcher, A. Dorcier, G. Luengo, and N. Spencer, Adsorption and lubricating properties of poly(l-lysine)-graft-poly(ethylene glycol) on human-hair surfaces, ACS Appl. Mater. Interfaces, 1(9), 1938–1945 (2 009). (2 3) R. Lodge and B. Bhushan, Surface characterization of human hair using tapping mode atomic force micros- copy and measurement of conditioner thickness distribution, J. Vac. Sci. Technol., 24(4), 1258–1269 (20 06). (2 4) V. Monteiro, A. Natal, L. Soledade, and L. Longo, Morphological analysis of polymers on hair fi bers by SEM and AFM, Mat Res., 6(4), 501–506 (20 03). (2 5) A. Pfau, P. Hössel, S. Vogt, R. Sander, and W. Schrepp, The interaction of cationic polymers with hu- man hair, Macromol. Symp., 126(1), 241–252 (201 1). (26 ) C. Durkan and N. Wang, Nanometre-scale investigations by atomic force microscopy into the effect of different treatments on the surface structure of hair, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 36(6), 598–605 (2014) . (27) A. Parbhu, W. Bryson, and R. Lal, Disulfi de bonds in the outer layer of keratin fi bers confer higher mechanical rigidity: correlative nano-indentation and elasticity measurement with an AFM, Biochem., 38(36), 11755–11761 (1999). (28) J. Smith and J. Swift, Lamellar subcomponents of the cuticular cell membrane complex of mammalian keratin fi bres show friction and hardness contrast by AFM, J. Microsc., 206(3), 182–193 (2002). (29) B . Bhushan and N. Chen, AFM studies of environmental effects on nanomechanical properties and cel- lular structure of human hair, Ultramicroscopy, 106(8), 755–764 (2006). (30) C . Clifford, N. Sano, P. Doyle, and M. Seah, Nanomechanical measurements of hair as an example of micro- fi bre analysis using atomic force microscopy nanoindentation, Ultramicroscopy, 114:38–45 (2012). (31) V . Dupres, T. Camesano, D. Langevin, A. Checco, and P. Guenoun, Atomic force microscopy imaging of hair: correlations between surface potential and wetting at the nanometer scale, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 269(2), 329–335 (2004). (32) V . Dupres, D. Langevin, P. Guenoun, A. Checco, G. Luengo, and F. Leroy, Wetting and electrical prop- erties of the human hair surface: delipidation observed at the nanoscale, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 306(1), 34–40 (2007). (33) R . Lodge and B. Bhushan, Effect of physical wear and triboelectric interaction on surface charge as measured by Kelvin probe microscopy, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 310(1), 321–330 (2007). (34) I . Seshadri and B. Bhushan, Effect of rubbing load on nanoscale charging characteristics of human hair characterized by AFM based Kelvin probe, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 325(2), 580–587 (2008). (35) C . Marcott, M. Lo, K. Kjoller, F. Fiat, N. Baghdadli, G. Balooch, and G. Luengo, Localization of human hair structural lipids using nanoscale infrared spectroscopy and imaging, Appl. Spectrosc., 68(5), 564– 569 (2014). (36) E. Max, W. Häfner, F. Wilco Bartels, A. Sugiharto, C. Wood, and A. Fery, A novel AFM based method for force measurements between individual hair strands, Ultramicroscopy, 110(4), 320–324 (2010). (37) H. Mizuno, G. Luengo, and M. Rutland, New insight on the friction of natural fi bers. Effect of sliding angle and anisotropic surface topography, Langmuir, 29(19), 5857–5862 (2013). (38) S. Breakspear and J. Smith, Returning to the same area of hair surfaces before and after treatment: a longitudinal AFM technique, J. Microsc., 215(1), 34–39 (2004). (39) B. Bhushan, Nanoscale characterization of human hair and hair conditioners, Prog. Mater. Sci., 53(4), 585–710 (2008). (40) N. Chen and B. Bhushan, Morphological, nanomechanical and cellular structural characterization of human hair and conditioner distribution using torsional resonance mode with an atomic force micro- scope, J. Microsc., 220(2), 96–112 (2005). (41) P. Wertz and D. Downing, Integral lipids of mammalian hair, Comp. Biochem. Physiol., 92B(4), 759–761 (1989). (42) J. Swift, Human hair cuticle: biologically conspired to the owner’s advantage, J. Cosmet. Sci., 50(1), 23–47 (1999). (43) C. Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair (Springer, Heidelberg), 2012. (44) B. Powell and G. Rogers, The role of keratin proteins and their genes in the growth, structure and properties of hair, in Formation and Structure of Human Hair, P. Jollès, H. Zahn, and H. Höcker. Eds. (Birkhäuser Verlag, Basel, 1997), pp. 59–148.

INVESTIGATION OF THE INTERNAL STRUCTURE OF HUMAN HAIR 131 (45) M. Ka d ir, X. Wang, B. Zhu, J. Liu, D. Harland, and C. Popescu, The structure of the “amorphous” matrix of keratins, J. Struct. Biol., 198(2), 116–123 (2017). (4 6) P. Pre m, K. Dube, S. Madison, and J. Bartalone, New insights into the physicochemical effects of ammonia/peroxide bleaching of hair and sepia melanins, J. Cosmet. Sci., 54(4), 395–409 (2003). (47) D. Ha r land, R. Walls, J. Vernon, J. Dyer, J. Woods, and F. Bell, Three-dimensional architecture of macrofi brils in the human scalp hair cortex, J. Struct. Biol., 185(3), 397–404 (2014). (48) M. Fe u ghelman, Morphology and properties of hair, in Hair and Hair Care. Cosmetic Science and Technol- ogy, D. Johnson. Ed. (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1997), Vol. 17, pp. 1–12. (49) J. Swift, The structure and chemistry of human hair, in Practical Modern Hair Science, T. Evans and R. Wickett, Eds. (Allured, Carol Stream, IL, 2012), pp. 1–37. (50) W. Bryson, D. Harland, J. Caldwell, J. Vernon, R. Walls, J. Woods, S. Nagase, T. Itou, and K. Koike, Cortical cell types and intermediate fi lament arrangements correlate with fi ber curvature in Japanese human hair, J. Struct. Biol., 166(1), 46–58 (2009). (51) R. De Cássia Comis Wagner, P. Kunihiko Kiyohara, M. Silveira, and I. Joekes, Electron microscopic observations of human hair medulla, J. Microsc., 226(1), 54–63 (2007). (52) R. McMullen, D. Laura, S. Chen, D. Koelmel, G. Zhang, and T. Gillece, Determination of physico- chemical properties of delipidized hair, J. Cosmet. Sci., 64(5), 355–370 (2013). (53) A. Yamauchi and K. Yamauchi, New aspects of the structure of human scalp hair-II: tubular structure and material fl ow property of the medulla, J. Cosmet. Sci., 69(1), 19–33 (2018). (54) C. Kunchi, K. Venkateshan, N. Reddy, and R. Adusumalli, Correlation between mechanical and ther- mal properties of human hair, Int. J. Trichol., 10(5), 204–210 (2018). (55) A. Vaynberg, M. Stuart, and X. Wu, Differential wetting characterization of hair fi bers, J. Cosmet. Sci., 61(1), 33–41 (2012). (56) K. Suzuta, K. Watanabe, T. Maeda, and L. Ito, Evaluation of cysteic acid in bleached hair using infrared spectroscopy, J. Fiber Sci Technol., 72(1), 1–8 (2016). (57) A. Grosvenor, S. Deb-Choudhury, P. Middlewood, A. Thomas, E. Lee, J. Vernon, J. Woods, C. Taylor, F. Bell, and S. Clerens, The physical and chemical disruption of human hair after bleaching – studies by transmission electron microscopy and redox proteomics, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 40(6), 536–548 (2018). (58) K. Joo, A. Kim, S. Kim, B. Kim, H. Lee, S. Bae, J. Lee, and K. Lim, Metabolomic analysis of amino acids and lipids in human hair altered by dyeing, perming and bleaching, Exp. Dermatol., 25(9), 729– 731 (2016). (59) T. Imai, The infl uence of hair bleach on the ultrastructure of human hair with special reference to hair damage, Okajimas Folia Anat. Jpn., 88(1), 1–9 (2011). (60) M. Martí, C. Barba, A. Manich, L. Rubio, C. Alonso, and L. Coderch, The infl uence of hair lipids in ethnic hair properties, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 38(1), 77–84 ( 2015). ( 61) C. Robbins, The cell membrane complex: three related but different cellular cohesion components of mammalian hair fi bers, J. Cosmet. Sci., 60(4), 437–465 ( 2009). ( 62) T. Takizawa, T. Takizawa, S. Arai, M. Osumi, and T. Saito, Ultrastructure of human scalp hair shafts as revealed by freeze-substitution fi xation, Anat. Rec., 251(3), 406–413 (19 98).