45 HyaluronicALURONIC acid water binding
molecules, experimental studies have shown the actual hydrogen bonding by glycerol in
dilute aqueous solution is 6.3 ± 1.4.29 Translating that value into the vernacular used in
this study, that would be glycerol binding 1.23 g H
2 O/g, significantly exceeding what has
been experimentally found for HA. This finding agrees with the assertion that glycerol is
the most effective humectant.30
CONCLUSIONS
This work dispels any notion that HA has remarkable water-binding power that makes
it a superior humectant. A role of humectants in cosmetic products is to impede water
loss by evaporation via binding to it. That process inherently requires the involvement of
Figure 8. TGA data for 0.1% (w/w) solution of hyaluronic acid from 30 to 150°C.
Figure 7. TGA data for pure water from 30 to 150°C (control).
46 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
a chemical force. Some of the other ways in which water might associate with hyaluronic
acid have been found in detailed scientific studies (such as hydrodynamics) but may not
play a useful role in the world of moisturizers. In fact, glycerin has the best performance as
a humectant. HA may have other properties based on its native functions that still make
it desirable to use in cosmetic products, however. The HA literature provides some hints
about the roots of the fallacy of the special water binding properties of HA. Substantial past
experimental studies combined with our experimental results show that a far more modest
water-binding property for HA can be supported. Like any scientific misconception, it will
be difficult to overcome the long-standing habits of thought in this field that attribute
special water-binding properties to hyaluronic acid.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
We thank the National Science Foundation (ATE-2024276) for financial support of SB.
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Figure 9. TGA data for a 10% solution of glycerol from 30 to 150°C.
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