139 ImprovedPROVED AVB PhotostabilityOTOSTABILITY UsingING NLCs
CHARACTERIZATION OF THE NLCS
TURBISCAN
F3 formulation was analyzed by dynamic turbidimetry for assessment of its physical
stability. In the graph results (Figure 5), the x-axis represents a residual percentage of
backscattering light, and the y-axis represents the height of the tube containing the
sample. This graph allows the comparative verification of the variation profiles of the
backscattered light at different times and sample heights if the profiles overlap at different
times, the product can be considered stable. The occurrence of destabilization phenomena
(aggregation and flocculation) and phase separation modify the interaction of the light
beam with the formulation dispersant, causing an increase or decrease in the intensity of
transmission and backscattering due to the variation in the size of the particles. For F3, a
variation of backscattering of ± 1% was observed, demonstrating the physical stability
of the formulation.29
FORMULATION PHYSICOCHEMICAL STABILITY
The results of MD and PdI of the formulation were monitored for 30 days to corroborate the
results of physical stability obtained through the backscattering analysis. No aggregation,
flocculation, or phase separation were observed. As shown in Figure 6, no significant changes
in the average particle size and PdI were measured (p 0.05). A statistically significant
difference was, however, observed in the NLCs zeta potential on day 30 (p 0, 05). This
change is believed not to influence the steric stability of the particles in the formulation,
since zeta values larger than 20 mV tend to be sufficient to maintain long-term stability
(as demonstrated by Medeiros et al.30) after the preparation of NLCs encapsulating an UV
filter, prepared using carnauba wax, and capric/caprylic acid triglycerides.
Figure 5. Variation of backscattering profile of the F3 formulation, obtained by scanning the NLC sample
every 1h, for 24h, at 37°C, using Turbiscan Lab.
140 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
PHOTOSTABILITY STUDY
The selection of ACN as the solvent for the positive control was based both on its use as
a diluent and mobile phase component of the HPLC method, as well as on other AVB
photostability studies described in the literature.31 It was demonstrated that AVB is
predominantly found in the enol form, and after exposure to radiation it presents photo-
instability converting into the keto form. In addition to exposure time and concentration,
photo-instability was also dependent on the type of solvent. In methanol, chloroform, and
acetone, there was no significant photoisomerization of AVB under the conditions tested.32,33
In agreement with these findings, our photostability study showed significant differences
between exposed and unexposed samples and between samples of NLC containing AVB
when compared to samples of AVB in ACN (positive control). Formulations containing
free AVB after UVA irradiation demonstrated a 50–70% decrease in the filter content,
while encapsulated AVB showed a maximum 5% decrease. Figure 7 shows the evaluation
AVB-NLC and AVB in ACN exposed to UVA radiation for a period of 24 hours. Under
the experimental conditions, the samples showed significant differences (p 0.05) when
compared.
In Figure 7, it is possible to observe that the AVB in ACN showed a decrease in its content,
reaching 50% in 24 hours. On the other hand, in both the NLCs containing AVB exposed
or not to UV radiation, the AVB content was maintained during the period of 24 hours,
which suggests that the AVB presented a photostable behavior when encapsulated in NLC.
As observed in previous works,32 the presence of cinnamic-acid derivate filters can increase
the formulation photostability. Since some filters affect the stability of others, the resulting
stability may chance in different filter combinations, and this could be the case of carnauba
wax, which presents in its composition p-methoxycinnamic diesters.32,34 Other works
have shown that when avobenzone sunscreens were nanoencapsulated in nanocapsules or
nanoemulsion, photodegradation was lower than when compared to traditional emulsions.35
Figure 6. Average diameter, PdI and zeta potential of AVB-NLC (F3) evaluated during 30d at room
temperature. Values represent mean ± S.D (n =3).
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