126 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS although hardly perceptible, when we smell the pure raw material, will act on the final compound and form secondary accords which will create in the perfume an unpleasant condition of confusion. I will not insist on the necessity of selecting raw materials in keeping with the medium in which the perfume is to be utilized. All of. you know how different the products must be when they are to be mixed with an oil, powder, or soap. CREATION OF A PERFUME Once we have selected an accord or a combination of accords, pleas- ant and original, on which we de- cide to create our perfume, our first preoccupation will be to perfect carefully a good base taken from these accords. Next we wil! have a lifting open- ing note to precede this base and we will prolong the effect of the base by means of a lasting background note. In other words, we may say, that we will have to develop three perfumes since the beginning and the back- ground must harmonize with the principal no{e, the opening being made of volatile products, and the background, of very tenacious prod- ucts. To illustrate what I have just said I have selected a concrete and simple examplema violet: I will add that although it. ap- pears to be simple, this perfume is on_e of the most difficult to make satisfactorily. In the first place this subject has so often been treated already that it may seem difficult to arrive at something original. Sec- ondly, the odor of the violet flower is so delicate and so light that it is just as difficult to make a strong perfume of violet as it would be in the realm of colors to make a loud tone of pastel. We will avoid this difficulty by building our perfume around the prindipal note of violet, for what attracts us in a perfume of a copsage of violets is not only the imper- ceptible odor of the flower, but also that of the leaves, of the forest, and of the soil that the flower carries. There is another obstacle: This perfume is so vegetal that it will be difficult to find an animal transition which will harmonize with the hu- man body wearing it. This transition is nevertheless indispensable because we must never forget that per- fumes must be worn by women and not smelled on testing blotters alone. We will begin our formula by setting up its principal accord, based on an excellent Ionone Alpha mixed with Methyl 17Ieptine Car- bonate. Once the proportions of this compound have been well de- fined we will be able to perfect it by eventually adding Ionone Beta or Methyl Ionone Gamma, Delta, or Omega. Finally agood Rhodinol judiciously proportioned, will sup- ply the necessary contrast to rein- force the basic note and make it stand our. We will increase the richness of this base by adding Absolutes or Lavages de Pomades of natural Violet, Violet leaves, Cassie, to which we will give a flowery note by

THE PERFUMER'S ART 127 means of Ylang, Absolute Jasmin, and a trace of Absolute Orange Flower.' ß Then, we will enlarge the accord with a dark tone, by using a trace of Absolute Reseda or a good spe- cialty of that type. We will build a solid background with natural Orris, Vitiveryl Acetate, and'a Violet Root base. The odor of earth and undergrowth would be obtained by means of a small quantity of Oak Moss and one of the excellent mosses which are offered by vari- ous specialty houses. The animal effect of transition will be given by Civet and Mus- cone, extracted from the American Muskrat, rather than tincture of natural Musk which has a secondary odor which may stand out unfa- vorably in a perfume as simple as Violet. A slight rounding effect will be VIOLET PERFUME FOR VARIOUS USES Cheaper Extract Extract Cream Powder Soap Aldehyde C-8, 11, 12 1 Citral Citron 2 Bergamot 8 Ionone Alpha 400 Methyl Heptine Carbonate 40 Ionone Beta 20 Methyl Ionones, Gamma, etc. 50 Rhodinol 15 Violet Absolute 20 Violet Leaves Ab- solute 80 Cassie Absolute 15 Jasmin Absolute 35 Orange Flower Ab- solute 2 Ylang Extra 20 Reseda Absolute 5 Orris Absolute 10 Orris Resin .. Vetiveryl Acetate 10 Oak Moss Resin 8 Moss Bases 12 Heliotropine 12 Anisic Aldehyde 10 Ambergris Tincture 25 Civet Tincture 100 Muscone Tincture 100 15 15 Violet Syn. 200 100 1 1 2 2 Bols de Rose 40 8 8 400 500 500 Ionone Soap 200 40 40 40 40 2'0 30 20 100 150 100 Methyl Ionones for Soap 100 15 Geranium 10 Cassie Syn. 20 Jasmin Syn. 70 50 40 Orange Flower Syn. • 20 30 20 Reseda Syn. 5 5 5 Labdanum Resin Civet Syn. Musk Ketone 12 10 10 1 4 40 lOOO 15 16 20 .. --' '1000 20 15 20 5 10 5O Cananga or Ylang III 100 Orris Resin for Soap or Orris Liquid Dist. on Cedarwood VetDer Sandalwood Benzoin Resin Musk Xylol 250 25 10 50 35 25 lOO 35 1000