170 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS made official by the (now called) National Hairdressers and Cosmetologists Association, in an effort to discourage the use of awkward neologisms. HISTORY OF PROFESSIONAL COSMETOLOGY The movement toward formal education for what was first called beauty culture--now cosmetology--in the U.S.A. originated in Chicago. Docu- mentary evidence on all the early claims is either not available or incon- clusive, but it seems to prove that the first real school grew out of a school for barbers. Until late in the 19th century, all the arts in barbering and hairdressing-- that is, shampooing, dyeing, bleaching, shaving and haircutting for men, hairdressing for women and the making of hair pieces for both--could be learned only through a long and arduous period of personal bondage, called apprenticeship, with some established master (4). Almost without exception, the best-known hairdressers of the time were men, born in Europe, and trained by this method. Many of them went regularly to the homes of their patrons, but "hairdressing parlors" were gradually opened in at least all the larger cities throughout the country. Meanwhile, the rapid development of the cosmetic industry was making commercially available all types of products which had formerly been made in the home. Much of the demand for these products had been engendered through the publications of professional beauties (5), the newly-created beauty editors on periodical staffs (6) and others (7), all of which enthusiastically featured beautifying products and treatments for scalp, face and hands. Skilled experts were soon in demand to adminis- ter such treatments correctly, either in or outside of the home. The modern "beauty shoppe" was on its way. At first there was no way of training these operators except by apprentice- ship to some self-appointed authority. It soon became apparent that although the arts of hairdressing could still be learned by long fumbling practice of the what-to-do-and-how-to-do-it, required for the hand- training in all trades, any treatment that calls for the manipulating of bodily structures must be learned correctly at once, and to mechanical skill must be added judgment--the when-to-do-it-and-why, required for the head-training in all professions (4). The practical work, therefore, had to be supplemented by classroom in- struction in anatomy and physiology, some simple dermatology and some physical therapy, for the principles of massage and the use of electrical and mechanical devices. Fundamental also were the knowledge and. practical application of sanitary regulations, "new-fangled ideas," un- heard-of or little heeded, by the established apprentice-trained hairdressers. The first school for barbers was opened late in 1893 by Arthur B. Moler, a practicing barber of Chicago, as a protest against the three years of

COSMETICS AND COSMETOLOGY IN EDUCATION 171 apprenticeship then required for training in his trade. The success of this school led to the opening in 1896 of an associated school for training in services especially for women patrons. The first rudimentary textbook on beauty culture was issued in the same year and through a need for competent instructors in the new type of training, the Moler Schools established in 1899 the first class for the preparation of teachers (8). Within the first quarter of the 20th century many private schools were opened all over the United States. A recognized leader in the educational movement at this time was Mrs. Ruth J. Maurer (1870-1945), wife of a physician of LaCrosse, Wis. She opened the first Marinello School in Chicago (1905), especially to train operators on treatments for the use of certain creams and other products that she had been successfully market- ing for some time. Being professionally-minded, she encouraged the fraternizing of, and exchange of ideas among, those in all branches of the trade. To this end, she organized a National Convention of Hairdressers (1912) and short summer schools for her own graduates so that they could keep abreast of all latest developments in their work (9). Most of the schools, however, were general training centers for all the various arts and skills in beauty culture, using any and all products available through their dealers. Some offered a comprehensive curricu- lum others gave certificates for special courses in hairdressing, facial treatments or whatever was required. It was not long before the vocational possibilities of beauty culture as a suitable occupation for women were officially recognized. In 1917, Mrs. Anna Lalor Burdick (1869-1944), who had been active in teaching and vocational guidance in her native state of Iowa, was appointed Agent for Industrial Education for Girls and Women, in the United States OfFice of Education. Through her efforts beauty culture was immediately listed as a possible course in the public vocational high schools and in 1918 the first course of the kind was added to the curricula of the Man- hattan Trade School for Girls (now the Mabel Dean Bacon Vocational High School) in New York. Sooner or later, practically all the schools of hairdressing added scalp and facial treatments to their offerings, the "treatment schools" added hairdressing, permanent waving and hair coloring, and thus, even before the adoption of a State Law required it, most schools of beauty culture offered comprehensive curricula. By now (1956), cosmetology is being taught in about 1100 schools throughout the United States and its dependencies. Of these, over 900 are privately owned and nearly 200 are public vocational and industrial high schools which are in about two-thirds of the states (10). The condi- tions and facilities vary widely. In some schools one instructor handles all the work, whereas in some public schools in the large cities cosmetology