172 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS has attained the statu• of a department with a full teaching staff. All schools of any size, public and private, have both general instructors and specialists for certain branches. In addition to the regular schools, instruction centers are maintained by many manufacturers, where teachers and licensed cosmetologists may go for special information and practice in the use of proprietary products and treatments. Some of these companies also send out their expert technicians to give instructions through selected dealers and demonstra- tions to the trade at large. Finally, there are some "Advanced Schools" in which, however, the instruction seems to be limited to the latest methods and modes in hair styling. (We seem to have made a full circle.) SCOPE OF MODEP. N COSMETOLOOY Depending on the observer's point of view, the composite subject of cosmetics-and-cosmetology has been characterized as an art, a science, a profession, a trade, a business, an industry, a racket and a game. Any branch of education and trade that spreads as rapidly as cosmetology did in its early years must inevitably come under consideration for the delimita- tion of its province and some form of legislative control. Forty-six states (all except Delaware and Virginia), the District of Columbia, Alaska, Hawaii and Puerto Rico now have laws to govern cos- metology (10). Since 1919, when the first law was enacted (Wisconsin), much has been done to establish uniformity and reciprocity. Despite the Basic Model Bill, first drafted by the National Hairdressers Association in 1924 and since adopted by many states (11), there are still notable dis- parities in preliminary education, hours in course of training, even in the governing body. This last may be the Department of Education, or Health, or Licenses but it is usually a politically appointed Board of Cosmetology (one of many names) which, itself, varies in the number and qualifications of its members. In the face of such conditions the progress made by the study and practice of cosmetology during the past sixty years has been truly remarkable. In all the laws the regions of the body that may be treated in cosmetology are specifically limited to the scalp, face, neck, upper chest and back, arms and hands. The essential services permitted include: cleansing, cutting, dressing, styling, temporary and permanent curling and straighten- ing, bleaching and coloring of the hair manicuring preventive and correc- tive treatments, by application of cosmetics, massage, devices, or other- wise, of the hair and scalp, face and other regions specified in the law. Cosmetic care of the lower legs and feet is also offered in many salons. It has often been said, and many early textbooks are available as evi- dence, that "The founders of professional cosmetology did not know what to leave out." There was good cause for apprehension on the part of the

COSMETICS AND COSMETOLOGY IN EDUCATION 173 physicians in some of those literally incredible compilations of poor English, garbled Greek and Latin, pseudo-science, revolting pictures of diseases of skin, hair and nails, and detailed descriptions of many rare conditions of nails and glands that even experienced dermatologists almost never see. It is now generally accepted as unwritten law by all ethical owners of schools and salons that it is strictly forbidden for any cosmetologist to make diagnosis of, and offer treatment for, any serious condition of the skin and any internal condition whatever. As a further protection in many states, any service that impinges on controlled medical practice, such as body massage, chiropody, electricity for superfluous hair, is re- stricted to those that hold licenses for these branches. A second glance through the list of permitted services and treatments should show that the subject matter of modern cosmetology is a fairly well-defined body of knowledge. As legally constituted, it should be con- sidered, not as "hairdressing-and-cosmetology," but as an all-embracing whole, comprising branches that are both basically artistic (hair-dressing, manicuring, make-up) and basically scientific (hair and skin treatments, permanent waving, hair coloring). In addition to the mechanical skills, therefore, the well-trained cosinerolo- gist should know: (a) Basic art: Color, line, proportion (b) Basic science: Appropriate anatomy, dermatology, physical therapy, sanitation (c) Related subjects: Physiology and hygiene (for personal living), chemistry (simple reactions, tests), psychology (for personal rela- tions). Because the practice of cosmetology is also a business, prospective salon owners also need to know: (d) Business methods: Management, accounting, customer relations insurance, applicable laws. Since World War II, there has been a gradual change in general cosmetol- ogy, at least in many private schools. Under the educational privileges of the G.I. Bill of Rights, hordes of young men enrolled in the approved schools of beauty culture where formerly the students had been almost exclusively women. Excused from manicuring and facial work, the men were permitted to fill their time with extra work on hair but most of them have been interested in little more than hair styling. Many salons in New York and other large centers have dropped all care of the skin--even make-up service--and feature only hairdressing, permanent waving, hair coloring and manicuring, just as did the "masters" of sixty years ago. In other parts of the country, however, general cosmetology has held its