506 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS often be greater than those produced by formula changes, so that there is a need to carry out experiments on uniform switches of hair. In this way speed of action can be evaluated by studying the factors which are likely to influence it, e.g. pH, strength and type of active agent, effect of different cations, etc. Testing on human subjects to determine the irritation factor should then result in a practical depilatory. Similarly, shampoo formulation and testing can be carried out using switches of hair under conditions which approximate closely to the salon, and measurements made which would be difficult to carry out in the salon itself. Anti-perspirant and deodorant products would certainly not be as effective as they are today if the only methods of assessment were subjective, but in fact the amount of perspi- ration secreted in a given time can be determined, whilst bacteriological tests give a good index of deodorant effectiveness. Many more such tests have been developed along the lines of those described as useful aids to formula- tion. On this basis, formulation and testing can proceed simultaneously and for the development of this group of cosmetics the laboratory does not need to be organised in a different way from other laboratories in the field of applied chemistry, e.g. paint or textiles laboratories. The potential user is keyed to a higher degree of expectation with make-up preparations than with the specialities group, and the discrepancy between expectation and performance is greater. Beautiful models, presented with all the skill of modern advertising, create an illusion which is certainly not within the capabilities of the average woman to attain. It is, however, reasonable for the average woman to assume that if these products create an illusion of outstanding beauty on models she will also appear more beautiful when she uses them. Until a few years ago, perhaps it would have been justified to claim that the current lipsticks were just about as good as they could be--but not today. The darker shades with which we were then satisfied are rapidly disappearing from the market and in their place are clear, bright, pastel shades. No doubt the glowing prose describing these lipstick colours in the crayon is fully justified they are clear, bright, subtle, sunlit and basically there is no conflict between reality and prose. But lipsticks are ultimately worn and judged on the lips, even if they are bought on crayon colour and rub-out colour on the wrist. Modern lipsticks exhibit certain defects primarily caused by the need to incorporate increased amounts of titanium dioxide to obtain paler shades. The emergence of eye make-up has compelled women to use subdued pastel lipstick colours to avoid a major clash of interest on the face and as the use of eye make-up is likely to increase considerably, this factor alone makes the return of dark lipstick shades unlikely. Orange, coral, peach and pink lipsticks exhibit the true crayon colour

MODERN COSMETICS--ILLUSION AND REALITY 507 for a comparatively short time on the lips and then a number of changes take place which seriously impair the appearance. Reflocculation of the white titanium dioxide occurs mostly in the crevices of the lips, emphasi- zing all the contour defects of the lips instead of helping to conceal them. With orange and peach lipsticks, this is often accompanied by a break up of colour into a mosaic of individual pigment colours, usually during eating or drinking. Finally, due to the incorporation of too high levels of the wrong coloured stain, the residual colour on the lips may bear no resemblance to the original crayon colour, e.g. orange and peach lipstick turning pink, and brown lipsticks turning red. There are one or two ways of evading this problem, such as drastically reducing the pigment level, which makes the pigment flocculation less noticeable, but such a lipstick is so lacking in covering power as to be quite unfashionable. Most women feel strongly on the subject of these defects and it is no con- solation to be told that only the paler shades exhibit these faults when it is precisely these shades they wish to wear. Insufficient attention is being paid by chemists to a problem which, in masculine eyes, is more aesthetic than technical. For example, flotation of titanium dioxide in lipstick manu- facture causing streaking in the crayon was considered a serious technical defect and has now been overcome, but the reflocculation of the same pigment on the lips is an even greater defect in the eyes of the user. Until recently eye cosmetics were even less satisfactory than modern pastel lipsticks. In the past, mascara, eye shadow and eye liner probably caused more disappointment than any other coloured make-up items. It would be reasonable to assume that the present increased use of eye cosmetics is partly due to their better performance and they may now be worn during the daytime with more confidence in the durability of the colour effect. In particular, the development of waterproof mascara in either cream or roll-on form has eliminated the main bugbear of streaking which was associated with the earlier block mascara. An additional advantage of waterproof mascara is the reduced likelihood of eye irritation due to the absence of soap, although the choice of unsuitable solvents in some waterproof mascara formulae does cause a very uncomfortable feeling on the eye-ball owing to solvent evaporation. With eye shadow, the present position is not particularly satisfactory, although it is likely that this will be radically transformed in the near future. Instead of the delicate graded wing of colour implied by the advertisements, reality has been a very fugitive approximation to this illusion, to be followed by the development of ugly coloured lines in the eye area and the complete loss of overall colour. All eye shadows which contain substantial quantities of waxes or oils, in cream or stick form, must inevitably run into coloured lines the policy of powdering over only delays the inevitable--it never prevents it. Whilst attempts have been made to formulate non-greasy eye