PRESSED POWDER TECHNOLOGY 609 Table VII Cake Eyebrows Ingredients Sample 1 Per Cent w/w Sample 2 Sample 3 Sample 4 Talc 141" q.s .... q.s. q.s. Talc WS b ... q.s ....... Kaolin 15-20 12-15 15.0 12.1 Zinc stearate 5-10 4-8 8.0 10.0 Calcium carbonate . . . 5-10 ...... Italian talc ...... 20.0 . .. Iron oxide pigments q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. Mineral oil, 70 visc. 4-6 ... 3.0 ... Trisolan* . . . 6.0 ...... Isopropyl myristate ...... 3.0 . . . Neobee M-5 a ......... 4.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 Whittaker, Clark & Daniels, New York, N.Y. C. B. Chrystal Co., New York, N.Y. Maimstrom Chem. Corp., Linden, N.J. Drcw Chemical Co., New York, N.Y. Table VIII Matte Eyeshadow Per Cent w/w Ingredients Sample I Talc 141- q.s. to 100.0 Kaolin 12-20 Zinc stearate 8-12 Pigments 10-40 Isopropyl palmitate 4.0 100.0 "Whittaker, Clark & Daniels, New York, N.Y. shadows contain chiefly ultramarine blues, violets, chrome green oxide hydrate and chrome gTeen oxide anhydrous, ochres, and other iron oxide colors to give bright pastel shades. Titanium dioxide or zinc oxides are also used for coverage and to brighten shades. Trends today are for a very creamy, smooth formula type that does not apply heavily to the eye- lid. Sheerness on application is desirable and the cake should not be dry or powdery in texture. A softer cake will help to give a creamier feeling upon application. If the correct amount of lb/in." is not used while pressing, a product having a completely different payoff and texture will

610 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS result. Also, most important is the type of applicator employed. The final cake must be evaluated with the specific brush or foam pad to be used. Important features are the texture of the brush, contour, material (foam pad or brush), and thickness of pad or bristle. These factors all influence the payoff of the final product. A basic matte eye shadow pro- totype is shown in Table VIII. Iridescent or pearlized eyeshadows have become extremely popular in the past five years. Through the use of pearlescent products, women have been able to achieve more striking effects in the application of eye make-up. The formulating chemist now has a number of different pearlescent materials at his disposal and can achieve many unique effects. The choice of ingredients depends upon the pricing of the final product as well as the desired effects. The most widely used pearlescent material is bismuth oxychloride. The cost of the material is quite high in relation to the other ingredients and this usually influences the amount to be used in the final products. BiOC12 produces a high luster on the skin and may be pressed with relative ease in high quantities, as shown in sample 3, Table IX. BiOC12 does not give much sparkle to the cake tone of the final cake. If this effect is desired in cake tone, the materials best suited are titanium-coated micas and pearl flakes, as shown in samples 1 and 2, Table IX. Bismuth-coated micas are now being used in greater quantities as a replacement in part for straight BiOCla. However, these types of materials tend to produce soft, spongy cakes if not formulated properly. A properly formulated pearlescent shadow will most likely have a blend of several types of pearlescent materials, as no single ingredi- ent is able to satisfy all requirements. Samples 4 and 5, Table IX, ex- emplify this fact. Amounts used will vary with the desired effects to be achieved. The use of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and other opaque materials will tend to reduce the pearlescent skin effect and their usage should be very low. Kaolin and zinc stearate help to produce a more stable cake. The amount and type of binder used is also of great conse- quence. If titanium-coated micas and BiOCl,coated micas are used in quantities over 15-20%, a water-binding system should be incorporated, as demonstrated in Table IX, sample 2. If not, soft spongy cakes will result. However, with a proper selection of binder, up to 50% of these materials may be incorporated in a cake, if so desired. Low amounts of BiOCla are being incorporated today in many so-called unpearlized shades in order to achieve a creamier brighter effect. The use of blends of various materials to produce a number of cosmetic effects in pearled eyeshadows is demonstrated in Table IX.