PRESSED POWDER TECHNOLOGY 605 Table III Translucent Pressed Face Powders Per Cent w/w Ingredients Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Alabama talc 141 a q.s. q.s. North Carolina talc ...... French talc ...... Italian talc ... 30.0 Kaolin 5.0 10.0 Zinc stearate 1.5 3.0 Magnesium carbonate ...... Pigments 0-1.5 0-1.5 Low viscosity mineral oil 3.0 ... Isopropyl myristate ...... Acetylated wool wax alcohols ø . . . 3.0 100.0 100.0 ß • . 30.0 ß . 50 1 5 1 0 0-1 5 ß . 25 ß . 100.0 a Whittaker, Clark & Daniels New York, N.Y. 0 Amerchol Products (Acetulan), Edison, N.J. Maimstrom Chem. Co. (Acetol), Linden, N.J. rouges are much too intense and unnatural for the "unmade-up" look of today. Perhaps the most significant difference between the pressed face powder and blush-on is the amount and types of pigment used. Blush-ons normally contain a higher percentage of lakes than do regu- lar pressed powders and therefore highlight the cheek area in a subtle manner. The formulation principles that aid the chemist in his choice of raw materials for pressed face powder cakes also apply to blush-ons. The trend today is towards more sheer, translucent cakes, and careful consideration as to the choice of material and levels is needed. The uses of these materials are exemplified in the samples in Table IV. Sample 1 produces a more translucent cake. Pearlescent blushers have also come into great demand and are being used more for day time wear rather than primarily for the evening. The formulating chemist has a much greater choice of pearlescent materials than he had ever had in the past and can create many unusual effects with their usage. Titanium dioxide may be used in low amounts if it is desired to produce a bright shade. In sample 2, Table V, the gum solu- tion is needed in order to press the powder because of the high amount of titanium-coated mica. A soft, spongy cake would result if a binder of this type were not used. Table V demonstrates the proper blend ot: materials necessary to produce a pearlescent blusher powder.

606 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Table IV Matte Blush-on Powders Per Cent w/w Ingredients Sample 1 Sample 2 Talc WS" q.s ... Talc 1410 ... q.s. Italian talc 20.0 ... Metropolitan talc #10 ... 40.0 Zinc stearate 10.0 3.0 Calcium carbonate . . . 3.0 Magnesium carbonate . . 3.0 Pigments and organic lakes q.s• q.s. Mineral oil 70 risc. 3.0 ... Isopropyl myristate ... 4.0 100.0 100.0 C. B. Chrystal Go., New York, N.Y. Whittaker, Clark & Daniels, New York, N.Y. Table V Frosted Blush-on Powders Per Cent w/w Ingredients Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Talc 141- q.s. q.s .... French talc ...... q.s. Metropohtan talc #1• ...... 10-20 Italian talc ...... 10-20 Zinc stearate 10.0 10.0 1.5 Kaolin 10.0 10.0 5.0 Calcium carbonate . . . 5.0 . . . Pigment and organic lakes q.s. q.s. q.s. Mineral oil, 70 visc. 5.0 5.0 ... Liquid cholesterol emulsifierb ...... 5.0 Titanium-coated mica c 15.0 15-30 . . . Bismuth oxychloride a ...... 10-30 5 % Aqueous hydroxyethyl cellulose* ... 10.0 ... 100.0 100.0 100.0 Whittaker, Clark & Daniels, New York, N.Y. Amerchol Products (Amerchol L-101), Edison, N.J. Maimstrom Chem. Corp. (Nimles- terol-D), Linden, N.J. Mearl Corp. (Timica Pearl), New York, N.Y. Rona Pearl Co. (MP-10), Bayonne, N.J. Mearl Corp. (Mearlite LBU), New York, N.Y. Rona Pearl Co. (NLD), Bayonne, N.J. Union Carbide Chem. Corp. (Cellusize QP-3), New York, N.Y.