PRESSED POWDER TECHNOLOGY 611 Table IX Frosted Eyeshadows Per Cent w/w Ingredients Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Sample 4 Sample 5 Talc 141- q.s. q.s .... q.s. French talc ...... 25.0 . . . Italian talc ...... 20.0 ... Zinc stearate 6.0 10.0 5.0 10.0 Kaolin 8.0 ... 5.0 ... Pigments q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. Robane• 5.0 ......... Neobee M-5c ... 6.0 ...... Mineral oil, 70 visc .......... 6.0 Ethyl hexyl palmitate a ...... 5.0 ... Bismuth oxychloride* 15.0 ... 40.0 10.0 Titanium-coated micaJ' 15.0 40.0 . . . 10.0 Bismuth oxychloride-coated ......... 10.0 micag Pearl flakes 120 oh 5-15.0 ......... 5 % Aqueous hydroxyethyl . . . 10.0 ...... cellulose/ 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 ß . . 20.0 q.s, 10.0 ß . • ß . . ß . . 5.0 ß . . 20.0 ß . . 20.0 100 0 a Whittaker, Clark & Daniels, New York, N.Y. b Robcco Chem. Co., New York, N.Y. •- Drew Chem. Co., New York, N.Y. a Van Dyke & Co. (Ceraphyl 368), Belleville, N.J. * Mearl Corp. (Mearlite LBU), New York, N.Y. Rona Pearl Co. (NLD), Bayonne, N.J. z Mearl Corp. (Timica Pearl), New York, N.Y. Rona Pearl Co. (MP-10), Bayonne, N.J. g Mallinckrodt Chem. Corp. (Bilite 20), St. Louis, Mo. h Pearl Products Corp., New York, N.Y. i Union Carbide Chem. Corp. (Cellusize QP3), New York, N.Y. No discussion of pressed powders would be complete without a short section on cake rouge. The number of users of cake rouge has in fact declined in recent years. However, there is still a hard core of women who will use no other substitute. No make-up line is really complete without several shades of cake rouge. The shade range varies from pinks to corals to reds. A cake rouge is a pressed powder that has a predomi- nance of organic lakes rather than iron oxides, although there may be a combination of both. The percentage of lakes can be as high as 20-30%, as shown in Table X. The manufacture of cake rouge is an operation that requires a great deal of clean-up time and should be kept in a special area. The high percentages of organic lakes used, which have great staining power, present several specific problems in manufacturing. Or- dinary binder systems do not properly wet down the pigment and tend

612 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Table X Cake Rouge Ingredients Per Cent w/w Base Talc WS • 80.40 Kaolin 12.30 Zinc stearate 2.45 Titanium dioxide 4.90 100.00 Binder Liposorb L-20 b 7.70 Liquid cholesterol emulsifier c 7.70 Perfume 5.50 Water, deionized q.s. to 100% Formula Base 41.5 Pigment and lakes 5-20 Talc 141a q.s. to 100 Binder 1.40 Water, deionized 7.10 100.00 C. B. Chrystal Co., New York, N.Y. Lipo Chem. Inc., New York, N.Y. Amerchol Products (Amerchol L-101), Edison, N.J. Maimstrom Chem. Corp. (Nimles- terol-D), Linden, N.J. Whittaker, Clark & Daniels, New York, N.Y. to leave dark spots. Wetting agents must be used in the system to ensure proper dispersion of the oils in the pigments. Pressure spraying of bind- ers and double pulverization also help ensure a smooth, uniform product. Good pressing talcs, kaolin, and metallic stearates are also necessary. A specific cake rouge formulation is represented in Table X. MANUFACTURING AND PRESSING TECHNIQUES Although the exact method of manufacturing depends upon formula- tion, most pressed powders are made either by damp or dry compression. In the damp process, the powder and color are combined and mixed with a suitable binder and perfume, if required, in a pony mixer or a ribbon type blender, passed once or twice through a micropulverizer, compressed into pans, and dried in a current of warm air. There are variations of this procedure depending on the binder system and the equipment avail- able. Some manufacturers who employ emulsion binders use a heated