PRESSED POWDER. TECHNOLOGY 607 The next basic group of pressed cake powder includes those cakes that are applied to the eye area. These are cake eyeshadow, cake eyeliner, and cake eyebrow. Cake eyeliner is the only pressed cake that is unique from all other cake products because of the method of application. Basically, all other cakes are used in the dry form. During eyeliner application, water is mixed with the powder and the creamy resultant emulsion is used to paint a line above the eyelash and sometimes below the lower lash. Normally, powder will not readily mix with water therefore, a different type of binder has to be used which will form an emulsion upon the moistening of the cake with a wet brush. The two types of binder systems that meet this requirement are a soap binder (ionic) (sample 2, Table VI) or a nonionic binder system (sample 1, Table VI). The soap binder system is chiefly triethanolamine stearate or triethanolamine oleate or a combi- nation of both. Included in this system may be glycols, lanolin and its derivatives, and other emulsifiers. The nonionic systems are usually some combinations of sorbitan ester emulsifiers and also may include other materials such as lanolin derivatives and glycols. Cake eyeliners are hard tablets and care must be used in the proper selection of fillers. Metallic stearates and calcium carbonate aid greatly in the pressing of a hard tablet. In order to pay off properly, there must be a proper balance of binder and pigment. Additional materials may be incorporated to help regulate the rate of water absorption of the cake. The cake should not absorb water too rapidly and act like a sponge, as this will not permit Table VI Cake Eyeliner Per Cent w/w Ingredients Sample 1 Sample 2 Talc WS • q.s .... French talc ... q.s. Magnesium stearate 3-10 ... Calcium carbonate 8-10 3-6 Aluminum stearate ... 3-6 Kaolin . . . 8-15 Pigments 5-30 5-30 Nonionic binder 10-12 ... Soap binder ... 12-20 100.0 100.0 a C. B. Chrystal Co., New York, N.Y.

608 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS the user to form an emulsion. On the other hand, if the cake does not ab- sorb some water, it will stay wet for too long a time. Two types of cake eyeliners utilizing the aforementioned principle are shown in Table VI. Cake eyebrow, the next pressed powder in the group of eye products, has recently increased in popularity, gweatly replacing, for the most part, the eyebrow pencil. The primary reason for this is the ease of applica- tion and the soft, natural look of the applied powder. Eyebrow pencils tend to give a harsh, definite line. It requires an expert touch to give the "unmade-up" look in fashion today. While the technology of cake eyebrow is similar in many ways to other pressed powder technology, there are several specific functions that make it stand apart. The first aspect is the area to which it is applied. Cake eyebrow is used to fill in the eyebrow and give it a full well-tapered look. It must have excellent adherence qualities to cling to an area that has short, relatively coarse hair. It must also apply smoothly and easily to give a matte, uniform appearance. The brush used should be firm and tapered. The cake must be quite firm so that it will not dust excessively when used. In order to achieve these qualities in the end product, the formulatot must use higher quantities of the materials that give these specific properties. A relatively high percentage of metallic stearate and kaolin will help give these properties along with the use of good pressing talcs (sample 1, Table VII). Careful selection of a binder system and the proper amounts of same will also aid in the application qualities. Some useful materials are mineral oils, lanolin derivatives, vegetable oil triglycerides, and isopropyl esters. Workable cake eyebrow prototypes may be prepared from the samples shown in Table VII. Pressed cake eyeshadows are perhaps the most extensively used cos- metic make-up item today. Many women have stopped wearing lipstick and only use some form of eyeshadow. Until five years ago, most eye- shadows were in either stick or cream form. Today, cake eyeshadow is the fashion and seems to be entrenched as a standard item. Although textures and shades are constantly changing, the fashion is still cake eye- shadow. Most popular today are the pearlescent shades. Recently, eyeshadows that can be applied either dry or wet have reached the market place. These are made to combine the properties of an eyeliner and a shadow. Matte eyeshadow usually consists of a good quality pressing talc, and other materials such as kaolin, metallic stearates, chalk, magnesium car- bonate, etc. (as exemplified in Table VIII). The primary difference be- Iween these products and pressed powders are the colors used. Eye-