EMf)LLIENCY AND CHEMICAL STRUCTURE 647 Table X Esters of Adipic Acid HOOC(CH2)4COOH Co Acid (Mol Wt 146) Approx Carbons on Mol Wt Alcohol 174 2 884 .. 228 6 1382 .. 228 6 800 13 258 8 1080 .. 370 16 1000 16 810 30• 750 .. Dimethyl adipate Dipropyl adipate Diisopropyl adipate Dibutyl adipate Diethylhexyl adipate Di-PEG 350 adipate Initial Slip (Scale 1-5) Dimethyl 4.2 Dipropyl 4.4 Diisopropyl 4.5 Di-PEG 350 5.0 Diethylhexyl 5.0 Dibutyl 5.0 Viscosity •c (Lotion)(cps) Branching End Feel (Scale 4-20) Di-PEG 350 Dimethyl Diethylhexyl Dipropyl Dibutyl Diisopropyl 15.3 16.3 17.8 18.5 18.8 18.8 Table XI Esters of Lactic Acid CHaCH COOH I OH Ca Acid (Mol Wt 90) Approx Carbons on Viscosity Mol Wt Fatty Alcohol (Lotion)(cps) Branching Lauryl lactate 258 12 7800 Myristyl lactate 324 14 28,300 Cetyl lactate 310 16 25,000 Stearyl lactate 373 18 32,500 Isostearyl lactatc 353 18 5180 Oleyl lactate 356 18 4600 Linear alcohol lactate 276 (12-15 ) 7000 4.3 Initial Slip (Scalc 1-5) Steary[ Myristyl Cetyl Isostearyl Ct2-Ct, Oleyl Lauryl 3.0 3.7 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.8 5.0 End Feel (Scale 4-20) Stearyl Cetyl Lauryl Myristyl Isostearyl C•-C•, Oleyl 11.8 16.0 17.3 17.4 17.5 18.0 18.3

648 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Table XII Saturated Fatty Alcohols Approx Viscosity Mol Wt Carbons (Lotion)(cps) Branching Linear (primary) 207 (12-15 ) 75,000 . . . Myristyl (natural) 214 14 100,000 . . . Hexadecyl 242 16 790 35.1 Cetyl (natural) 242 16 71,800 ... Isostearyl 271 18 9200 5.6 Stearyl (natural) 271 18 58,700 . . . Initial Slip (Scale 1-5) End Feel (Scale 4-20) Stearyl 1.8 Cetyl 7.5 Myristyl 1.8 Myristyl 12.0 Cetyl 2.0 Stearyl 12.4 Ca2-C•5 2.9 C•2-C•5 14.0 Hexadecyl 3.3 Hexadecyl 17.0 Isostearyl 3.5 Isostearyl 17.3 Table XIII Unsaturated Fatty Alcohols Approx Viscosity Mol Wt Carbons (Lotion)(cps) Oleyl 269 18 6520 Ricinoleyl 285 18 2304 Erucyl 325 22 66,400 Lanolin "alcohols" 385 274- 39,500 Initial Slip (Scale 1-5) End Feel (Scale 4-20) Ricinoleyl 3.0 Lanolin alcohols 11.5 Erucyl 3.0 Ricinoleyl 12.5 Lanolin alcohols 3.5 Oleyl 14.5 Oleyl 4.5 Erucyl 16.5 better SFI values than the normal liquid fatty alcohol. It is interesting to note the enormous range of viscosities generated in this group--from less than 1,000 cps (using hexadecyl alcohol) to over 100,000 cps using myristyl alcohol. The UNSATURATED FATTY ALCOHOLS were surprisingly me- diocre in their performance as emollients (Table XIII). Erucyl alcohol, a C22 soft waxy material, gave the best results of this group. Oleyl alcohol, as would be expected, gave better results than stearyl. Isostearyl alcohol performs even better than oleyl, while ricinoleyl alcohol--even though a liquid--performs no better than stearyl, a hard wax. Once again, we see