ABSTRACTS 45 TESTING COSMETICS & TOILETRIES Use of the raman microprobe in characteriza- tion of organic materials Fran Adar, Ph.D., Instruments SA, Inc., 173 Essex Ave., Metuchen, NJ 08840. The Raman Microprobe-MOLE produced by Instruments SA combines the capabilities of optical microscopy with the ability for chemical and phase characterization. Exploitation of its potential to identify organic as well as inorganic materials, in dtu with 1/zm spatial resolution, will be considered. Examples of applications which enable possible problems in the cosmetic industry to be extrapolated will be selected. Aspects of wax interactions in the formula- tions of cosmetic cold creams David F. Bernstein, Ph.D., Revlon Health Care Group, 1 Scarsdale Rd., Tuckahoe, NY 10707. In the development of original formulas or replace- ment of ingredients in existing cosmetic formula- tions, the art of the formulator can be enhanced by a working knowledge of all physical and chemical data. This is particularly valid with petroleum waxes, as the complexity of the composition of hydrocarbon waxes makes it difficult to utilize typical specifications as the sole basis for substitu- tion. Additionally, the petroleum industry classifies waxes solely by origin and generally disregards the hydrocarbon structure, which provides for nomen- clature inconsistencies. Although this communica- tion is concerned with the performance of petro- leum hydrocarbon waxes in simple cold cream formulations, the findings are applicable to cosmetic formulation in general. The chemical composition of waxes used in conjunction with beeswax was shown to affect finished product viscosity. Waxes with predominantly straight chains (e.g., paraffinic hydrocarbons) yielded high- viscosity products branched chain waxes generally yielded lower-viscosity products. Typical raw mate- rial specifications as would be used in quality control were not sufficient to predict product viscosity, although the congealing point-refractive index relationship could be used as an indicator of the n-paraffinic composition, which was shown to be predictive of product viscosity. The chemistry and formulation properties of sodium Cx4-x6 olefin sulfonates Phillip L. Cotrell, Cyclo Chemicals Corp., 7500 N.W. 66th St., Miami, FL 33166. Sodium C•4_x6 olefin sulfonates (AOS) have been widely promoted in recent years as economical replacements for alcohol and alcohol ether sulfates in shampoo and personal care products. Their excellent performance and physical properties make them quite attractive to formulators who are attempting to develop high foaming, inexpensive systems. Despite the obvious advantages of these compounds, their formulation properties vary substantially from alcohol and alcohol ether sulfates and, therefore, cannot be indiscriminately used as direct replacements for them. To adjust for these variances, formulation modifiers such as fatty diethanolamides or ampholytic surfactants must be added to AOS-based systems to produce aestheti- cally attractive, functional products. This paper summarizes some of the formulation and perfor- mance properties of AOS and describes techniques to prepare optimized shampoo or detergent prod- ucts. The data clearly illustrate the many advan- tages of AOS and point out mechanisms to over- come its potential formulation shortcomings. This paper is a critical examination of AOS and covers specific topics which have not been fully examined in recent publications. Alternate color systems for replacing D&C Red 9 and D&C Red 19 R. Kerry Haines and Jan Rempe, Hilton-Davis Chemical Co., 2235 Langdon Farm Rd., Cincinnati, OH 45237. Potential delistment by the FDA of the certified organic colors, D&C Red 9 and D&C Red 19, has created a need for alternative colors. The range of organic colors in wide commercial use today can be used in various combinations to approximate the shades of these two colors. However, more exacting matches have been developed using certi- fied colors such as D&C Red 27, D&C Red 36, FD&C Yellow 6, and FD&C Blue 1--colors which traditionally have not received much attention by the color chemist. Additionally, manufacturing modifications in the predominantly used colors, D&C Red 6 and D&D Red 7, can broaden their shade ranges from bluehess to yellowhess to provide better options in developing closer color matches. Ideally, the cosmetic chemist needs an exact duplication of shade that can be directly substituted for D&C Red 9 or for D&C Red 19 in existing cosmetic formulas. The specific applica- tion, whether lipstick or powder, and the percent- age level of the color to be substituted will dictate different alternate color systems. Structural analysis by acoustic microscopy Larry W. Kessler, Ph.D. and D. E. Yuhas, Soho- scan, Inc., 530 E. Green St., Bensenville, IL 60106. Acoustic microscopy is a technique which illu- minates a sample with ultrasonic energy and

46 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS produces high resolution images of the ultrasonic wave pattern. The resulting image reveals elastic properties in the sample. Because of the unique interaction between ultrasound and the sample, the acoustic image reveals elastic property variations within the sample. The technique has been used in the life and material sciences and is currently being exploited for industrial quality control and flaw detection in optically opaque materials. Shea butter--A new and exceptional cosmetic raw material Victoria I. Onwuchekwa, John Ward, Ph.D., Lloyd Kennon, Ph.D. and Anthony Cutie, Ph.D., Arnold and Marie Schwartz College of Pharmacy, Long Island University, 75 DeKalb Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11201. Shea Butter was compared for efficacy and perfor- mance with Cocoa Butter. The raw materials were screened for humectant properties by subjecting them to varying relative humidities in a dessicator. Shea Butter showed a higher capability of water uptake at high relative humidities. Physical analysis showed that Shea Butter had two polymorphic forms and a transition temperature of 35.5øC. Cocoa Butter has four polymorphic forms and several transition temperatures. W/O and O/W emulsions of the two materials were evaluated. Accelerated stability studies at 4øC, 20øC, 37øC, 50øC for eight weeks showed that both emulsions were stable but have a tendency to degrade at higher temperatures (50øC). Degradation is marked in Cocoa Butter lotions. Shea Butter showed remarkable stability in W/O emulsion, especially at 10% level. Cocoa Butter could not hold together in W/O emulsion for any period of time. Overall, Shea Butter showed better results as an humectant and emollient. It is stable at extreme temperatures and shows good stability in W/O emulsions. Microemulsions: Evolving technology for cos- metic applications Dinesh O. Shah, Ph.D., University of Florida, Gainesville, FL 32611. Microemulsions, which are optically transparent oil-water dispersions, were spontaneously pro- duced upon mixing hexadecane, hexanol, potas- sium oleate, and water in specific proportions. The viscosity of the microemulsions was measured for several water/oil ratios including the phase-inver- sions region. The striking optical and viscosity changes observed at specific water/oil ratios were in agreement with the proposed mechanism of phase-inversions, namely, water spheres --• water cylinders --• water lammellae --• continuous water phase, for this system. In the phase-inverfion region, the dispersion exhibited birefringence and rehopectic properties. An extremely high viscosity (100,000 cps) exhibited by the dispersions between water/oil ratios of 2.0 and 3.5 were explained in terms of ion-dipole association between oleate and hexanol molecules on adjacent droplets. The application of these principals in cosmetic formulations are discussed. Alternative methods for the formulation of anhydrous lipid systems for topical use David C. Steinberg, Gianni Proserpio, Ph.D. and Stefano Dorato, Ph.D., Tri-K Industries, 99 Kindermack Rd., Westwood, NJ 07675. Anhydrous, oil-based ointments represent a tradi- tional pharmaceutical product for topical use. Most current products consist of old formulations based on petrolatum, mineral oil, lanolin and mineral waxes. The aim of this study is to show, through a series of formulations, alternative tech- niques and raw materials (propoxylated pentaery- thritol ethers, polyisoprenes, and new liquid glyc- erol esters of long chain saturated fatty acids) to prepare anhydrous ointments. These formulations are compounded for their consistency, increased or decreased tack, gelling ability, stability, softness and spreadability. Quality control of the viscosity, melting range and texture will also be discussed. Development and clinical testing of contem- porary eye cosmetics Walter H. Stern, M.D., Roger L. Williams, M.D., Monroe Lanzet and Stephen R. Schwartz, Univer- sity of California School of Medicine, Department of Ophthalmology, U-490, San Francisco, CA 94143. This paper deals with the issues of rapidly changing consumer expectations and their effect on the formulation, safety and relevancy of clinical testing of eye cosmetics. The authors discuss earlier formulations, modes of application, microbiology and the eye safety issues associated with eye cosmetics. The demand for more functional, longer wearing products with greater assurance of safety, had led us to propose a clinically relevant method for assessing the safety of eye cosmetics. The technique employed relies on multiple applica- tions of test and control products to the eyes three times a day. Ophthalmologic evaluation of the periorbital skin and the anterior segment of the eye was performed by both penlight and slit lamp microscopy. These examinations were carried out by Board certified ophthalmologists over a three week period of continued product use. Areas for future exploration include panel size and subject composition, changes in methodology, assessment