PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF ALPHA-KERATIN FIBERS 405 (37) K. D. Parker, Infra-red dichroism of fibrous proteins, Biochim. Biophys. Acta, 17, 148 (1955). (38) R. D. B. Fraser and E. Suzuki, Infra-red dichroism in cz-keratin,J. Mol. Bid., 9, 829 (1964). (39) J. E. Algie, J. G. Downes, and B. H. Mackay, Electrical conduction in keratin, Textile Res. J, 30, 432 (1960). (40) G. King andJ. A. Medley, D.C. conduction in swollen polar polymers, Parts I and II.J. Colloid Sci., 4, 1 (1949). (41) J. E. Algie, Dielectric constant and conductance changes in wool fiber produced by step changes in the relative humidity, Textile Res. J, 34, 477 (1964). (42) M. Feughelman, A two-phase structure for keratin fibers, Textile Res. J, 29, 223 (1959). (43) J. B. Speakman, The rigidity of wool and its changes with adsorption of water-vapour, Trans. Faraday Soc., 25, 92 (1929). (44) T. W. Mitchell and M. Feughelman, The torsional properties of single wool fibres. Part I. Torque-twist relationships and torsional relaxation in wet and dry fibres, Textile Res. J., 30, 662 (1960). (45) w. G. Crewther, R. D. B. Fraser, F. G. Lennox, and H. Lindley, The chemistry of keratins, Advances of Protein Chemistry, 20, 101 (1%5). (46) E.G. Bendit, The distribution of high and low-sulphur fractions in cz-keratin, Textile Res. J, 38, 15 (1968). (47) M. Feughelman, Intermicrofibrillar linkages in cz-keratin fibers, Textile Res. J, 49, 704 (1979). (48) R. D. B. Fraser, T. P. Macrae, and G. E. Rogers, Molecular organisation in alpha keratin, Nature, 193, 1052 (1%2). (49) E.G. Bendit, The location and function of the high glycine tyrosine proteins in keratins. In Fibrous Proteins: Scientific, Industrial and MedicalAspects, D. A.D. Parry and L. Ks Creamer, eds. (Academic Press, London, 1980), Vol. 2, p. 183. (50) R. D. B. Fraser and T. P. Macrae, Molecular structure and mechanical properties of keratins. In The Mechanical Properties of Biological Materials (Society of Experimental Biology, London 1980). (51) M. Feughelman and I. C. Watt, Torsional properties of chemically modified wool fibers, Textile Res. J., 36, 849 (1966). (52) M. Feughelman and I. C. Watt, Wool fibers treated with ninhydrin or formaldehyde: mechanical properties, Textile Res. J., 34, 643 (1964). (53) G. Danilatos and M. Feughelman, Dynamic mechanical properties of cz-keratin fibers during extension,J. Macromol. Sci.--Physics, B16 (4), 581 (1979). (54) P. Mason, The viscoelasticity and structure of fibrous proteins. IL Further dynamic measurements of keratin, Kolloid- Z., 218, 46 (1%7). (55) M. Feughelman andJ. W. Snaith, The swelling of crystalline cz-keratin by alcohols, Biochim. et Biophys. Acta, 79, 203 (1964). (56) J. B. Speakman, The elastic properties of wool in organic liquids, Trans. Faraday Soc., 26, 61 (1930). (57) F. J. Wortmann and H. Zahn, The influence of water and organic solvents on the rheological properties of single wool fibres, Proc. 6th Quinquennial International IVool Textile Research Con f, Vol, II, 323, Pretoria (1980). (58) M. Feughelman, A note on the recoverability of mechanical properties in wool fibres,J. Textile Inst., 59, T548 (1%8). (59) M. Pailthorpe, T. Singhasuwich, and M. Feughelman, Unpublished data. (60) M. Feughelman, Creep of wool fibres in water, J. Textile Inst., 45, T630 (1954). (61) M. Feughelman and B.J. Rigby, A two-energy state model for the stress-relaxation and creep of wool fibres in water, Proc. of International IVool Textile Research Conference, D-62, Australia (1955). (62) H. Burte and G. Halsey, A new theory of non-linear viscoelasticity, Textile Res. J, 17,465 (1947). (63) T. W. Mitchell and M. Feughelman, The phase transition in wet cz-keratin fibres above 100øC, Kolloid Z.u.Z. Polymere, 229 124 (1%9). (64) H. Zahn, Alteration of wool by chemical and thermal action, Melliand Textilber., 13, 481 (1950). (65) M. Feughelman and M. Druhala, The lateral mechanical properties of alpha-keratin, Proc. 5th International IVool Textile Research Conf, Vol. 2, 340, Aachen (1975). (66) E.G. Bendit, The cz-/• transformation in keratin, Nature (London), 179, 535 (1957). (67) W. T. Astbury and H.J. Woods, X-ray studies of the structure of hair, wool and related fibres. II. Phil. Trans. Roy. Soc., 232A, 333 (1933). (68) E.G. Bendit, M. Feughelman, R. D. B. Fraser, and T. P. Macrae, The hydrogen-deuterium exchange reaction in stretched keratin. Textile Res. J, 29, 284 (1959). (69) A. R. Haly and M. Feughelman, Stress changes at constant strain and hydrogen bonding in keratin fibres. J. Textile Inst., 51, T573 (1960).

406 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (70) J. E. Algie, The variation of electrical resistance with strain of keratin fibers with constant water content, Textile Res. J., 34, 273 (1964). (71) M. Feughelman, A note on the role of microfibrils in the mechanical properties of ot-keratins, J. Macrotool. Sci.--Physics, B16 ( 1 ), 155 (1979). (72) M. Feughelman, The mechanical properties of permanently set and cystine reduced wool fibers at various relative humidities and the structure of wool, Textile Res. J, 33, 1013 (1963). (73) M. Feughelman and P. J. Reis, The longitudinal mechanical properties of wool fibers and their relationship to the low sulphur keratin fraction, Textile Res. J, 37, 334 (1967). (74) R. W. Burley, Some observations on the extension, contraction and supercontraction of wool fibres, Proc. International IVod Textile Res. Conf, Australia 1955, D88 (1956). (75) M. Feughelman, The mechanical properties of set wool fibres and the structure of keratin, J. Textile Inst., 51, T589 (1960). (76) M. Feughelman, The microfibril-matrix relationships in the mechanical properties of keratin fibers, Part I. The torsional properties of "melted" and permanently set keratin fibers, Textile Res. J, 48, 518 (1978). (77) M. Feughelman and A. R. Haly, Structural features of keratin suggested by its mechanical properties, Blochim. Biophys. Acta, 32, 596 (1959). (78) R. D. B. Fraser, T. P. Macrae, and E. Suzuki, The structure of the o•-keratin microfibril, J. Mol. Bid., 108, 435 (1976). (79) L. Pauling and R. B. Corey, Compound helical configurations of polypeptide chains. Structure of proteins of the ot-keratin type, Nature (London), 171, 59 (1953). (80) B. M. Chapman, A mechanical model for wool and other keratin fibers, Textile Res. J., 39, 1102 (1969).