392 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS =. Treated Untreated 30 o o-- o o 10 I Before Occlusion Affer Occlusion Figure 6. Capacitance measurements taken from dry skin after chronic treatment with a skin lotion T = treated sites, U = untreated control sites. The bars represent standard error. thickening of corneocytes located at levels as deep as those adjacent to the granular layer. The effect was attributed by the authors to swelling caused by higher levels of hydration. The technique used in the present study allowed us to observe a sizable decrease in the rate of water diffusion in dry skin chronically treated with a lotion, in agreement with the effects observed by others as described above. A possible mechanism accounting for the effect of the treatment is the formation of a substantive lipid barrier within the most superficial layers of stratum corneum. This possibility is supported by experi- ments which show that lipidic compounds, some of which are commonly used in skin lotions, are substantive to the stratum corneum (18), and they produce a positive effect on both the diffusional resistance (19,20) and the electrical capacitance of skin (1,3). CONCLUSION This report describes a sensitive method for measuring relative rates of water diffusion at the surface of the skin. The rate is indicated by changes in electrical capacitance as endogenous water accumulates in the outermost layers of the skin subsequent to occlusion with a thin layer of petrolatum. The diffusion rate is higher in subjects with dry skin than in those with normal skin. Application of a moisturizing lotion containing glycerine and mineral oil restored the skin to a normal-like condition with respect to its water-barrier function.
ELECTROMETRIC ASSESSMENT OF SKIN DRYNESS 393 REFERENCES (1) G. P. Serban, S. M. Henry, V. F. Cotty, and A.D. Marcus, In vivo evaluation of skin lotions by electrical capacitance and conductance,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 32, 421-435, 1981. (2) H. Tagami, M. Ohi, K. Iwatsuki, Y. Kanamaru, M. Yamada, and B. Ichijo, Evaluation of skin surface hydration in vivo by electrical measurement,J. Invest. Dermatol., 75,500-507, 1980. (3) P. A. Isherwood, Physiology of stratum corneum, measurement of water content, Acta. Fac. Med. Univ. Brun., 16, 290-295 (1977). (4) N. Rutter and D. Hull, Reduction of skin water loss in the newborn. I. Effect of applying topical agents, Archives of Disease in Childhood, 56, 669-672, 1981. (5) A.M. Kligman, R. M. Lavker, G. L. Grove, and T.J. Studemayer, Some aspects of dry skin and its treatment, in Safety and E•cacy of Topical Drugs and Cosmetics, ed. A.M. Kliõman and J.j. Leyden (Grune and Stratton, Inc., 1982). (6) J. L. Leveque, J. C. Carson, andJ. de Rigal, Transepidermal water loss from dry and normal skin,J. Sac. Cosmet. Chem., 30, 333-343, 1979. (7) R. Edelberg, Relation of electrical properties of skin to structure and physiologic state, J. Invest. Dermatol., 69, 324-327, 1977. (8) D.C. Salter, Quantifying skin disease and healing in viva using electrical impedance measurements, in Nan-Invasive Physiological Measurements, ed. P. Rolfe (Academic Press, London, 1979). (9) S. Grimnes, Psychogalvanic reflex and changes in electrical parameters of dry skin, Med. & Bial. Eng. & Comput., 20, 734-740, 1982. (10) A.M. Kligman, Regression method for assessing the efficacy of moisturizers, Cosmet. Toilet., 93, 27-35, 1978. (11) D.J. Perry, G. E. Mount, andJ. Maliner, The effect of topically administered compounds on the skin galvanic response,J. Invest. DermatoL, 36, 7-9, 1961. (12) I. H. Blank, Factors which influence the water content of the stratum corneum,J. Invest. Dermatol., 18, 433-44O, 1952. (13) K. K. Kraning, E. Schibli, S. Momii, S. Campbell, and G. F. Odland, Water content of stratum corneum in vivo, USAMRDS Report, DADA 17-72-C2103, 1975. (14) C. Clausen, S. A. Lewis, andJ. M. Diamond, Impedance analysis of tight epithelium using a distributed resistance model, Biophys. J., 26, 291-318, 1979. (15) T. H. Cook, Profilometry of skin: A useful tool for the substantiation of cosmetic efficacy, J. Sac. Cosmet. Chem., 31,339-359, 1980. (16) R. L. Anderson, J. M. Cassidy,J. R. Hansen, and W. Yellin, The effect of in viva occlusion on human stratum corneum hydration--dehydration tn vitro, J. Invest. Dermatol., 61,375-379, 1973. (17) A. S. Zelickson, B. D. Zelickson, and B. M. Zelickson, Measurements by transmission electron microscopy of "dry" skin before and after application of a moisturizing cream, Amer. J. Dermatapa- thal., 4, 205-208, 1982. (18) M. S. Christensen, D. Yeung, and S. Nacht, Topically induced changes in the appearance and functioning of the stratum corneum, Presented at the Annual Scientific Seminar, Society of Cosmetic Chemists, San Francisco, May 1980. (19) R.J. Scheuplein andJ. H. Blank, Permeability of the skin, Physiol. Rev., 51,702-747, 1971. (20) W. P. Smith, M. S. Christensen, S. Nacht, and E. H. Gans, Effects of lipids on the permeability of human stratum corneum,J. Invest. DermatoL, 78, 7-11, 1982.
Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown) From: SCC Media Library & Resource Center (library.scconline.org)