COSMETIC FORMULATIONS WITH ARGIRELINE® 171 (13) Y. Eros and A. Thaleb, Rheological studies of creams, Acta Pharm. Hung., 64, 101-103 (1994). (14) B. J. Poulsen, E. Young, and V. Coguita, Effect of topical vehicle composition on the in vitro release of fluocinolone acetonide and its acetate esters,]. Pharm. Sci., 57, 928-933 (1968). (15) R. E. Dempski, J.B. Portnoff, and A. W. Wase, In vitro release and in vivo penetration studies of a topical steroid from nonagueous vehicles, J. Pharm. Sci., 58, 579 (1969). (16) V. Gallardo, M. Mufioz, and MA. Ruiz. Formulations of hydrogels and lipogels with vitamin E,J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 4, 187-192 (2005). (17) T. J. Franz, Percutaneous absorption on the relevance of in vitro data,]. Invest. Dermatol., 64, 190-195 (1975). (18) P.A. McCarron, A. D. Woolfson, and S. M. Keating, Sustained release of 5-fluorouracil from poly­ meric nanoparticles,J. Pharm. Pharmacol., 52, 1451-1459 (2000). (19) K. T. Kierstan, A. E. Beezer, J.C. Mitchell, J. Hadgraft, S. L. Raghavan, and A. F. Davis, UV­ spectrophotometry study of membrane transport processes with a novel diffusion cell, Int. J. Pharm., 229, 87-94 (2001). (20) M. E. Morales, V. Gallardo Lara, A. C. Calpena, J. Domenech, and M. A. Ruiz, Comparative study of morphine diffusion from sustained release polymeric suspensions,]. Control. Rel., 95, 75-81 (2004). (21) A. Joshi, S. Ding, and K. Himmelstein, Patent 5, 252-318 (1993). (22) B. Idson, Vehicle effects in percutaneous absorption, Drug Metab. Rev., 14, 207-222 (1983). (23) J. L. Parra and L. Pons, Ciencia Cosmetica. Bases Fisiologicas y Criterios Prdcticos (1995), pp. 593-596. (24) Y. A. Chen and R.H. Scheller, SNARE-mediated membrane fusion, Nat. Rev. Mo!. Cell Biol., 2, 98-106 (2001). (25) T. Hayashi, S. Yamasaki, S. Nauennburg, T. Binz, and H. Niemann, Disassembly of the reconstituted synaptic vehicle membrane fusion complex in vitro, EMBO ]., 14, 2317-2325 (1994).

J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 173-176 (March/April 2007) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 28, No. 5, 2006* Review Article Revisiting Dandruff C. Pierard-Franchimont, E. Xhauflaire-Uhoda and G. E. Pierard Dandruff is a common scalp disorder affecting almost half of the postpubertal population of any ethnicity and both genders. It may, however, represent a stubborn esthetical disturbance often source of pruritus. Skin biocenosis, in particular the Malassezia spp. flora, plays a key aetiologic role, in combination with the unusual capacity of some comeocytes to be coated by these yeasts. Substantial evidence indicates that keratinocytes play an active role in the generation and expression of immunopathological reactions. This is probably the case in dandruff. Upon stimulation of a critical colonization of comeocytes by Malassezia yeasts, the release of pro-inflammatory mediators is increased. This could lead to the subclinical microintlammation present in dandruff. In seborrheic dennatitis, local deposits of immunoglobulins and the release of lymphokines are responsible for the recruitment and local activation of leukocytes leading to the eventual amplification of the inflammatory reaction. Some ancillary non-microbial causes of dandruff may operate through physical or chemical irritants. Many methods have been described for rating dandruff. Our favourite tools are clinical examination and squamometry. Dandruff can precipitate telogen effluvium and exacerbate androgenic alopecia. Anti dandruff formulations exhibiting some direct or indirect anti-inflammatory activity can improve both dandruff and its subsequent hair cycle disturbance. Review Article The Biology of Vernix Caseosa S. B. Hoath, W. L. Pickens and M. 0. Visscher The biology and physical properties of the uniquely human skin cream 'vemix caseosa' are discussed. This material coats the foetal skin surface during the last trimester of gestation and provides multiple beneficial functions for the foetus and newborn infant. Vernix has a complex structure similar to stratum comeum but lacks lipid lamellae and is more plastic due to the absence of desmosomal constraints. In utero, vernix is made in part by foetal sebaceous glands, interacts with pulmonary surfactant, detaches into the amniotic fluid, and is swallowed by the foetus. At the time of birth, vernix has a remarkably constant water content approximating 80%. Postnatally, vemix is simultaneously a cleanser, a moisturizer, an anti-infective, and an anti­ oxidant. Vernix facilitates acid mantle development and supports normal bacterial colonization. Its hydrated cellular structure and unusual lipid composition provide a 'best' solution for the needs of the foetus and newborn, not least of which is the attraction of caregivers. Vemix is an important natural biomaterial of potential interest to cosmetic scientists, and other disciplines involved in product development and therapies targeting the complex interface between the stratum comeum and a changing terrestrial environment. Effect of Hormone Replacement Therapy on Epidermal Barrier Lipids1 M. Misra, C. Feinberg, M. Matzke and D. Pocalyko Current evidence of the effect of hormone replacement therapy (HRT) on skin lipids, of postmenopausal women is scanty and indirect. Here, we report the ultrastructural differences in epidennal lipids between postmenopausal subjects who were and were no on HRT and a comparison is made with younger subjects. Biopsies were obtained from arms and legs, in a blinded, no-treatment, study conducted on postmenopausal subjects who were and were not on HRT and younger subjects '. The ultrastructure of skin lipids and the lipid coverage of underlying comeocytes were compared for biopsies obtained from different subjects. Qualitative assessment as well as quantitative estimation of lipid-covered regions of comeocytes shows * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 173