178 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Differential Toxicity on Monocytes and Monocyte-Derived Dendritic Cells: A New Tool to Differentiate Allergens from Irritants? Laetitia Furio1, Joelle Guesnet2, Blandine Ducarre1, Anne Guezennec2, Daniel Schmitt1 and Josette Peguet-Navarro1 1 Universite Lyon 1, EA 37-32, Service de Dennatologie, Pavillon R, Hopital E. Herriot, F-69003, Lyon, France 2 YSL Beaule, 20-26 boulevard du Pare, 92521 Neuilly/Seine, France Phenotypic activation of monocyte-derived dendritic cells has been proposed as an in vitro alternative assay to discriminate potential sensitizers from irritants, but the sensitivity of the assay remains controveniial. In this study, we first determined the dynamic range of expression of activation/maturation markers on human monocyte-derived dendritic cells cultured in the presence or absence of transfurming growth factor 6 (TGFB). On day three of culture, most monocytes had already differentiated into dendritic cells that expressed low levels of costimulatory molecules especially in the presence TGFB Treatment of 3-day-old TGF6-treated monocyte-derived dendritic cells with several chemicals at sub-toxic concentrations induced significant phenotypic changes for all the strong and mild sensitizers tested, whereas the irritant sodium lauryl sulfate had no effect. However, a very large variability was observed among the experiments. Most interestingly, we could show here for the first time that at concentrations sub-toxic for monocyte-derived dendritic cells all the allergens tested induced monocyte apoptosis within two days of culture. In contrast, sodium lauryl sulfate displayed similar toxicity on monocytes and monocyte­ derived dendritic cells and these results were confirmed with other irritants such as benzoic acid or methylsalicylate. Although testing of far more chemicals is required, these results indicate that differential toxicity of chemicals to monocytes and monocyte-derived dendritic cells could be a rapid, simple and valuable tool to differentiate sensitizers from irritants. Use of Associating Polymers as Multifunctional Thickeneni: Studies of Their Structure in Aqueous Solutions via NMR, QELS, Fluorescence, and Rheology Measurement� Katsunori Yoshida, Ayano Nakamura, Yuki Nakajima, Tadao Fukuhara, Haruhiko Inoue, and Isamu Kaneda Shiseido Research Center, Shiseido Co., Ltd., 2-2-1 Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki-ku, Yokohama 244-8558 Japan The solution properties of an associating polymer were studied by NMR, quasi-elastic light scattering (QELS), fluorescence, and rheology measurements. An associative thickening (AT) polymer was designed having a nonionic poly(ethylene oxide) backbone with long alkyl chains at both ends to achieve high viscosity even at relatively high salt concentrations and over a wide pH range. This study focuses on the associative state of the polymer in aqueous solutions at various polymer concentrations. In a fluorescence probe study using pyrene a spectral change in the IJ/11 ratio was observed for pyrene at a polymer concentration (Cr,) of 3 x 10-4 %, indicating an apparent critical concentration (cmc) of the amphiphilic polymer. The viscosity, self-diffusion coefficient (D101), and hydrodynamic size (Rt,) distribution measurements at various Cp all suggest that there is a second transition at CP � 0.4%. Although we observed the discontinuity in viscosity, D .. 1, and Ri, at Cp � 0.4%, no changes in the relaxation times (TI and T 2) were recognized for either the alkyl chain or the ethylene oxide moiety of the polymer at Cp = 0.1 - 1%. These data suggest that there are no structural changes or phase transitions at Cp � 0.4%, but that intermicellar networks are presumably formed by bridging of the end alkyl groups of the polymer, which is driven by hydrophobic forces. Because the polymer forms networks by hydrophobic interaction and the polymer itself is nonionic, the viscosity of the polymer solution was influenced very little by either the addition of salt or a pH change, as would be expected. The dynamic viscoelastic study revealed that the polymer solution exhibits a single mode Maxwell type relaxation behavior with a terminal relaxation time of about 0.61 s, which imparts a unique flow appearance to the polymer solutions. The time course measurements of the dynamic elastic modulus of the stratum corneum revealed that the polymer has excellent potential for skin softening. It was concluded that the associative thickening polymer not only is a useful thickener with a salt and pH tolerance but also has beneficial skincare effects. Blackberry Leaf Extract: A Multifunctional Anti-Agin1 Active Martina Herrmann1, Susanne Grether-Beck2, Imke Meyer1 Helge Franke1, Roiger Joppe1, Jean Krutmann2 and Gabriel Vielhaber1 1 Symrise GmbH & Co KG, Research Cosmetic Ingredient!! Miihlenfeldstr. 1, 37603 Holzminden, Germany 2Environmental Health Research Institute, Auf 11 Hennekamp 50, 40225 01isseldor( Germany Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) play a major role i1 wrinkle formation. Their expression increases with aging ani is further enhanced by UV irradiation. Blackberrry (Rubu fruticosus) leaf extract has been shown to suppress MMP-1, 2 and -9 in cell-free assays. We have now further explored th activity of this extract The effect on MMP-1 expression at th protein and the mRNA level was investigated using non irradiated and lN A-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts. Th extract showed a dose-dependent reduction of the MMP­ protein level of both irradiated and non-irradiated cells wrn an almost complete inhibition at a dosage of 0.1 %. MMP­ mRNA expression of UV A-irradiated cells was decreasC4 after preincubation as well as after postincubation with th extract. Best results were obtained with combined pre- an◄ posttreatment (0.1 % extract led to 59% reduction i1 comparison with the respective control). Moreover, we foum that blackberry leaf extract inhibits IL-la, a cytokine know1 to induce MMP expression. At a dosage of 0.2% th inhibition was 40% compared with that of the stimulatC4 control. The extract also exhibited a potent radical scavengin1 activity comparable to that of a.-tocopherol as was shown b: the ABTS assay. Taken together, these biological activitie make blackberry leaf extract a highly efficie11 multifunctional anti-aging active.

J. Cosmet. Sci.J 58, 179-180 (March/April 2007) Abstracts Journal of the Polish Society of Cosmetic Science, "Wiadomosci PTK" Vol. 9, No. 4, 2006* In Vitro Evaluation Of The UV Filters' Photostabilty Jannila Hojerova 1 , Danka Sovcikova 1, Milan Mikula 2 1 Section of Cosmetology, Faculty of Chemical and Food Technology, Slovak University of Technology, Bratislava, Slovakia 2 Section of Applied Photochemistry, Faculty of Chemical and Food Technology, Slovak University of Technology, Bratislava, Slovakia The most important factor, which may modify the sun care product's efficiency, is the photochemical instability of some UV actives when exposed to ultraviolet radiation. The photostabilities of 12 commercially available UV filters (6 inorganic and 6 organic) were examined in in vitro method by applying 2mg/cm2 of emulsion with respective UV filter on the inside of the quartz cuvette and measuring its absorption or transmission spectrum prior to, and after exposure to 19 MEDs and 38 MEDs of solar-simulated irradiation. Three new inorganic UV filters based on Zinc oxide and three new inorganic UV filters based on Titanium dioxide showed excellent photostabitity. Chemicals actives (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate encapsulated in pearls, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene and Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in the tested emulsions exhibited various photostability profiles. The most photolabile was Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 19 MEDs and 38 MEDs destroy its efficacy of 26.4% and 53.9% respectively. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate encapsulated in pearls (Pearls OMC) showed photostability significantly higher than the same UV filters (OMC) in the free form 19 MEDs destroy 13.1% OMC, but 2.0% of Pearls OMC efficacy only. Men's Grooming - Ademanding And Fast Growing Market Ulrich Sabre GE Bayer Silicones GmbH & Co. KG Men are an increasingly important target group for Personal Care manufacturers. Traditionally, men haven't been using cosmetics to a big extend. But in today's modem society, things are changing dramatically. Men's grooming products are becoming more and more fashionable with a particular strong demand for high tech ingredients that meet the male consumers expectations in terms of performance properties and product attributes. The paper summarizes how the latest silicone technologies are capable to satisfy these needs and expectations. Polish Cosmetic Act Versus Cosmetic Directive 76/768/EC Ewa Starzyk Polish Union of Private Employers of Cosmetics Industry The Polish cosmetic act (Journal of Laws of 2001, no. 42, item 473) is one of the best legal acts functioning in the Polish legal system. A thorough comparative analysis of the legal provisions contained in the Polish cosmetic act and in the directive 76/768/EC, as well as their construction, indicates though that there are some entries in the Polish industry legislation which differ from those provided for in the directive. Improper transposition of the directive 76/768/EC provisions frequently results from attempts to adjust the implemented legislation to the specific nature of the market and the way of operation of monitoring institutions, such as sanitary inspection. The directive * The abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the journal of Cosmetic Science. 179