176 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexanols and derived esters: green synthetic procedures, odour evaluation and in vitro skin cytotoxicity assays1 R. Gambaro*, C. Villa*, S. Baldassari*, E. Mariani*, A. Parodit and A M. Bassit The alcohols 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexanols (cis, trans epimers, cosmetic fragrance)· and some derived esters, potential and well-known actives in the cosmetic field, such as Homosalate, were synthesized using fast solvent­ free methodologies witl\:' the aim of renewing and simplifying the conventional procedures. The alcohols were prepared by reduction of 3,3,5- trimethylcyclohexanone (dihydroisophorone) with sodium borohydride/alumina in solid state. The esters from propanoic, butanoic, octanoic, 10-undecenoic, cyclopropanecarboxylic, mandelic and salicylic acids were synthesized with microwave-mediated solvent-free procedures under acidic and basic catalysis. Several experiments were carried out to study advantages and limits of the selected methodologies and the results are reported. Microwave irradiation was carried out using a scientific monomode reactor. In order to evaluate the cosmetic interest of the studied compounds, the sweet­ scented substances were submitted to an odour evaluation test the most promising fragrances and the ester from 10- undecenoic acid, as an example of lipophilic derivatives, were tested to assess'their in vitro skin toxicity. Evaluation of Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy of Adenosine­ Containing Products Using the FOITS Technique M.L. Abella The objective of this study was to evaluate formulations containing adenosine to reduce periorbital lines and glabellar frowns in a blind, randomised, placebo-controlled study. One hundred twenty-six female volunteers between 45 and 65 years of age fulfilled inclusion criteria for periorbital lines. They were provided with two of three products (cream with adenosine, dissolvable film with adenosine or placebo), to be applied to the periorbital area on each side of the face (84 subjects per product). Eighty­ four of these subjects also fulfilled the inclusion criteria for glabetlar frowns, and received placebo or cream with adenosine to be applied to the glabellar area. Products were applied twice daily for 2 months, and evaluation was performed under dermatological supervision at 0, 3 and 8 weeks using Fast Optical in vivo Topometry of human Skin (FOITS) analysis to describe skin profile. Both adenosine-containing products led to significant improvements in skin smoothness in the periorbital area. Improvements were evidenced after 3 weeks of product application as measured by Ra and Rz parameters using the FOITS technique, and were steadily confirmed after 2 months, despite severe climatic conditions and independently of the analysis technique that was used with the FOITS data. Adenosine-containing cream also significantly improved glabellar frowns. This study demonstrates the potential beneficial effects of adenosine­ containing products on crow's feet and glabellar facial wrinkles. Equivalence of Face and Volar Forearm for the Testing of Moisturizing and Firming Effect of Cosmetics in Hydration and Biomechanical Studies R. Bazin and C. Fanchon The objective of the study was to compare measurements of skin hydration and of biomechanical properties performed on different zones of face and volar forearm. Two short-term (l h) and two long-term (3 weeks) studies were conducted with a moisturizing and a firming product, respectively, on gr oups of female volunteers with dry skin. Measurements (Comeometer«i and Dermal Torque Meter«i or DTM) were performed on different zones of the face and of the volar forearm, 1 h after product application, and after 1, 2 and 3 weeks of repeated twice daily application. While the sebaceous-gland rich T-zone behaves differently, probably due to sebum/skin, sebum/product and/or sebum/measuring device interactions, there are no statistically significant differences between measurements made on temple, cheek, maxilla and volar forearm. The volar forearm is representative of the face for measuring skin hydration and biomechanical properties, and relevant for the assessment of the efficacy of cosmetic products destined for facial use.

J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 177-178 (March/April 2007) Abstracts IFSCC Magazine Vol. 10, No. 1, 2007* Global Regulations of Sunscreens David C. Steinberg Steinberg Associates, Inc., 16 Mershon Lane, 08536 Plainsboro, USA On June 1, 2006, the trade associations representing the personal care industry of the European Union, the United States, Japan and South Africa agreed on an International Sunscreen Protection Method. What will this mean? Sunscreens are regulated throughout the world either as cosmetics, over-the-counter (OTC) drugs which do not require a governmental pre-approval or OTC drugs that require a pre-approval before they are placed on the market. Regardless of how they are regulated, all of these product regulations are very similar concerning sunscreens! Each country has a pre-approved list of pmnitted UV filters, an accepted method of running efficacy by SPF determination, and regulated labels. Some countries have approved methods for UV A claims and water-resistance testing. The latest changes are in Australia, where some sunscreens will be regulated as cosmetics based on SPF and claims, and Canada, where some sunscreens will be regulated as Natural Health Products depending on their actives! And now here comes a new variable, the harmonized SPF method. What confusion! This paper will cover the different SPF test methods (Harmonized, Australia, and US-FDA) along with the formulations of reference standards, currently approved UV A methods, water-resistant testing, some labeling requirements and finally a brief review of cGTvfPs and other requiremen� for the US. It will have an update of the recent changes m regulations and cover the approved UV filters permitted in the US, EU, Japan, Canada and Australia as well as their maximum use level and correct ingredient designation. There is also a master cross reference list by INCi designation. Scientific Characteri:llltion of Subclinical Skin Changes by Noninvasive Biophysical Methods for Development of More Efficacious Skincare Products Hachiro Tagami Tohoku University School of Medicine, Sendai 981-0942, Japan In 1966, after finishing only my first year of a residency program, I went to the United States to study for 2.5 years with Dr. Albert M. Kligrnan the analysis of functional properties of various skin changes in vivo using aged skin, various types of dermatitis and topically applied steroid­ induced atrophy as experimental models. Ten years later, I luckily found that measurements of high frequency conductance and capacitance of the skin enable us to evaluate the skin surface hydration state that determines the softness and smoothness of the skin and in particular to detect even .subtle skin changes induced by changes in our environmental or by the application of skincare products and cosmetics. Employing such noninvasive biophysical instruments, I have analyzed the functional properties of normal and abnormal skin changes including subclinical skin changes sue� as atopic xerosis, senile xerosis, scars and effects of vanous topical and systemic agents. From these studies it became apparent that as long as a certain level of barrier function was retained skin surface hydration is a more important factor for enjoying a good quality of life. We also succeeded in confirming the effect of comeotherapy, the term so pertinently suggested by Dr. Kligrnan for the beneficial effects of skincare products. We could show that their daily application definitely improves the condition of subclinical skin problems. Further progress in such instrumental analysis of skin properties will greatly aid us in the future in selecting a more desirable skincare product on an individual basis. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the ]ottrnal of Cosmetic Science. 177