180 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 76/768/EC is of no minimal nature. Domestic provisions concerning cosmetic products which go beyond the directive stipulations (in the way which hinders the free movement of goods) may be in contentious cases treated as incompatibilities by institutions responsible for construing legal rules, including domestic courts and the European Court of Justice. Modem Complexing Agents in HomeCare & Cosmetic Products Anna Frydrych, Jacek Arct Faculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Poland Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland In many cosmetic and household products, the presence of free metal ions could lead to serious problems resulting from the formation of insoluble metal salt precipitates in the products themselves or during the usage as in case of washing products. To provide effective control of metal ions different chelating agents (also referred to as "sequestering agents", "builders", "co-builders" or "water conditioners") are added into formulations. It should be mentioned however, that the word "builder" have much wider meaning, because builders can work by complexation (i.e. sodium tripolyphosphate STPP), precipitation (i.e. sodium carbonate) or ion-exchange (zeolites). Nanotechnology In Surface Modification Wojciech Fabianowski, Agnieszka Rogulska Faculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Poland Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland Nanomaterials, nanotechnology are promising solutions for new technical products, including cosmetic and house-hold cleaning devices. Nanomaterials were known and practically used for years but during the last couple of years were developed ways to organize them in 2D or 3D structures in controlled manner. Organized structures like 2D nanocoatings offer new possibilities in different fields like surface cleaning, barrier membranes, sensors and biomedical devices. Brief introduction to the construction of nanostructures will be presented as well as methods for preparation of sandwich-like nanocomposite structures composed from several layers made from different monomolecular films (from organic molecules, polymeric films, inorganic clays). Methods for such films characterization measurement of thickness, wettability, chemical composition, presence of defects, stability will be briefly discussed. There will be mentioned both advanced instrumental tools and methods (like XPS FfIR GA, VA, ATR, RR, DR AFM STM CV) and relatively simple and still sensitive methods like contact angle measurements, roughness determination and visual inspection.

182 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE ANTIPERSPIRANT TECHNOLOGY: THE CHEMISTRY AND FORMULATION PROPERTIES OF ANTIPERSPIRANT ACTIVES Allan H. Rosenberg, Ph.D. Summit Research Labs Antiperspirant actives are the ingredients in antiperspirant products that actually cause sweat inhibition. The two major types of actives are aluminum chlorohydrate (ACH) and aluminum-zirconium-glycine (AZG) salts both in liquid and powder form. The chemistry of these materials is quite complex and significantly impacts the in-vivo performance of these materials in the finished antiperspirant product. These actives consist of cationic aluminum and zirconium polymers which can vary in number, size and distribution depending upon the active in question. In order to produce commercial high performance actives, three steps are required. Firstly, experimental techniques must be available which can separate, detect, and quantitatively measure the aluminum and zirconium polymer distributions present in the actives. This allows us to monitor the aluminum and zirconium chemistries of these systems as a function of reactant starting materials, synthesis routes, heat, dilution, aging etc. Second, the chemical information is correlated with in-vivo clinical efficacy studies to determine which aluminum and zirconium chemistries result in optimum clinical performance. Finally, processing methodology is developed to maintain the targeted chemistries in the final commercial product. Several experimental techniques have been developed to characterize antiperspirant active systems with emphasis on the macromolecular properties (i.e. aluminum and zirconium polymer properties). These include C 13 and Al27 NMR, Size Exclusion Chromatography (SEC) using low pressure and high­ pressure columns, Inductively Coupled Plasma Spectroscopy (ICP), and Light Scattering. Details of these techniques and their limitations will be presented. Correlating chemical information obtained from the above mentioned techniques with clinical efficacy studies provide a framework for identifying which specific chemical properties result in improved clinical performance. Some of the most important findings are given below. 1. Aluminum-zirconium-glycine actives (AZG) are superior to aluminum actives with respect to clinical performance. 2. There exists a specific aluminum polymer species (so called peak 4 aluminum polymer) that provides increased efficacy when present in appreciable amounts in the active.