JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 224 change of cuticle. As shown in Table V, mascara induces cracking of cuticle. The crack formation might be hypothesized to affect measurement of cuticle thickness however, crack formation did not signifi cantly correlate with the thickness of the cuticle (Table VI). These correlations indicate that mascara use induces other structural changes in cu- ticle, for example, swelling of the cuticular cell scale. CONCLUSIONS To investigate how eye makeup affects eyelash structure, internal structure of eyelashes were observed using a scanning X-ray microscopic tomography system. We found posi- tive correlation between the frequency of mascara use and the rank of cracking in cuticle, the thickness of cuticle, or the porosity in cortex. These correlations indicate that mascara treatment induces crack formation or swelling in cuticle structure and increases the po- rosity of cortex. Eye makeup using mascara contains two steps of actions, application and removing. In general, it is recognized that mascara, especially the waterproof variety, can be extremely hard to get off. There are many comments from consumers from the internet concerning eyelash damage during removing. The structural changes of eyelash found in this study provide scientifi c evidence to the eyelash damage induced by mascara use. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The synchrotron radiation experiments were performed at the BL20XU of SPring-8 with the approval of the Japan Synchrotron Radiation Research Institute (JASRI) (Proposal no. 2012A1053). The authors thank Mr. Takeshi Fujimori for his help during the measure- ments and for discussions. REFERENCES (1) S. Thibaut, E. De Becker, L. Caisey, D. Baras, S. Karatas, O. Jammayrac, P. J. Pisella, and B. A. Bernard, Human eyelash characterization, Br. J. Dermatol., 162, 304–310 (2010). (2) C.R. Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior in Human Hair, 4th Ed. (Springer Verlag, New York, 2002), pp. 1–62. (3) J. I. Na, O. S. Kwon, B. J. Kim, W. S. Park, J. K. Oh, K. H. Kim, K. H. Chao, and H. C. Eun, Ethnic characteristics of eyelashes: A comparative analysis in Asian and Caucasian females, Br. J. Dermatol., 155, 1170–1176 (2006). (4) A. Takeuchi, K. Uesugi, and Y. Suzuki, Differential phase-contrast scanning X-ray microscope for ob- servation of low-Z specimen, AIP Conf. Proc., 1266, 42–46 (2010). (5) T. Inoue, K. Takehara, K. Kizawa, T. Fujimori, A. Takeuchi, K. Uesugi, and Y. Suzuki, The internal structure of hair observed using a differential phase contrast scanning X-ray microscope, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Jpn., 46, 101–107 (2012). (6) S. Liotet, M. Riera, and H. Nguyen, Les cilis: Phsiologie, structure, pathlogie, Arch. Ophthalmol. (Paris), 37, 697–708 (1977). (7) P. E. Hutchinson and J. R. Thompson, The size and form of medulla of human scalp hair is regulated by the hair cycle and cross-sectional size of the hair shaft, Br. J. Dermatol., 140, 438–445 (1999). (8) S. N. Kim, S. Y. Lee, M. H. Choi, K. M. Joo, S. H. Kim, J. S. Koh, and W. S. Park, Characteristic fea- tures of ageing in Korean woman’s hair and scalp, Br. J. Dermatol., 168, 1215–1223 (2013).

J. Cosmet. Sci., 65, 225–238 (July/August 2014) 225 Address all correspondence to Nabila Belhaj at Nabila.belhaj@lucasmeyercosmetics.com. Development of a new resistant liposome coated with polysaccharide fi lm for cosmetic application NABILA BELHAJ, JEAN PIERRE ARNAUD, ESTELLE LOING, and CARINE BÉZIVIN, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, ZA les Belles Fontaines, 91160 Champlan, France (N.B., J.P.A., C.B.), and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Place de la Cité, Tour de la Cité # 900, Québec G1V 4W2, Canada (E.L.). Accepted for publication May 22, 2014. Synopsis The aim of our study was to elaborate a resistant liposome that can be used in cosmetic formulations containing high amounts of surfactants and electrolytes. The stability of liposomes was increased via hydrophobized polysac- charide (Stearoyl Inulin) by anchoring its stearic acid tail into liposome bilayer. Coated and noncoated liposomes were prepared under the same conditions and their morphology, size, and resistance to surfactants and electrolytes were evaluated. We established that coated liposomes were more resistant to surfactants and electrolytes. It seems that a coating of polysaccharides prevents liposome destabilization in the presence of high amounts of surfactants and electrolytes. Moreover, the ability of coated liposomes to improve the skin delivery of active molecules was evaluated. Coated liposomes increased the effi cacy of magnesium chloride by improving its skin availability. INTRODUCTION Liposomes are mainly used for the encapsulation of bioactive molecules in cosmetics, pharmaceutics, nutraceutics, and in food sciences. Both hydrophilic and lipophilic bioac- tive molecules can be incorporated into liposomes to enhance their skin penetration and thus to improve their effi cacy. Because of their biocompatibility with skin composition, liposomes have been principally used in the cosmetic industry since the eighties (1–3). Liposomes are incorporated into different cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and gels. However, even if they are very interesting delivery systems for the cosmetic industry, they still have some limitations. For example, various cosmetic ingredients decrease the stability of liposomes and therefore their effi cacy to deliver bioactive molecules. Maherani et al. (4) have reported that physicochemical stability of liposomes depends mainly on the lipid composition, the rigidity of the membrane, and the ability of liposomes to maintain the entrapment effi ciency despite changing external conditions (pH, electrolytes, surfac- tants, and so on).