94 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS tions. They will, for example, react with acrylonitrile. This, upon cata- lytic hydrogenation gives what we call a Duomeen, a versatile dibasic amine containing a primary and secondary amine grouping. As such, or in the form of its salts, these compounds are finding wide use as asphalt additives, corrosion inhibitors, oil recovery agents, etc. The amines can be reacted, too, to give the amino burytic acid derivative, a zwitterion type of compound capable of forming inner salts and of reacting with acid or base that is, it contains an amino and a carboxyl group in the same molecule. As the sodium salt, this compound has interesting emulsification and de- tergency properties. The amines will also react with phosgene to give the isocyanates, useful as toxicants with metallic salts, such as silver, mercury, or copper chloride, to give the corresponding amine complexes and double salts, used as mold inhibitors and rubber accelerators with formic acid and formaldehyde to give the dimethyl tertiary amines, in- termediates in quaternary formation with thiourea hydrochloride to give the guanidine derivative, a rubber accelerator and with carbon disul- fide to give thioureas and dithiocarbamates. All of these, and more, are practical compounds, all preparable and all in or beyond the develop- mental stage. Alkylation of the amines, with methyl chloride for example, gives the corresponding quaternary ammonium compounds, which completes the picture of the basic nitrogen containing fatty acid derivatives. These compounds have been and are being extensively investigated. They are, of course, potent germicides, excellent cationic emulsifiers for w/o emulsion, and, in the case of those derived from the secondary amines, are hydro- carbon soluble. They have found outlets in the antibiotic field, as corro- sion inhibitors, as bactericides, as antistatic agents, as cloth softeners, and as grease substitutes. They are, of course, incompatible with the an- ionics, soaps, and with some proteinaceous material, and their function as active components in cosmetic preparations is necessarily limited. They are excellent hair conditioners and softeners, as after-rinses of course, to avoid inactivation by soaps. Perhaps the Duomeen diquaternary will function more effectively here. Again, quaternaries, if compatible, may perhaps replace aromatics as preservative agents in some cosmetic prepa- rations perhaps, too, they would have some deodorant action, because of their bactericidal activity. They have been tried, also, as antidandruff agents a 4 per cent solution of Arquad 18 applied to the hair a few minutes before rinsing has shown evidence of success. And, finally, they have been incorporated in permanent waving solutions and give a desir- able opaqueness here too. The last class of derivatives that I should like to mention is the non- ionics, the condensation products of ethylene oxide and active hydrogen, specifically the acids, amines, and amides. These are becoming very prom-

CHEMICALS FROM FATS AND OILS 95 ising competitors for the anionics and the cationics, particularly in so far as emulsification is concerned. They are excellent detergents too, but essentially non-sudsers, by themselves at least. As emulsifiers, however, their advantages are obvious. We can obtain any desired balance ofhydro- phobic properties (hydrocarbon chain length, that is) and hydrophilic properties we like, simply by adding more or less ethylene oxide and this can be done while maintaining the ester, amide, or amine function in the molecule. A short list of their applications would include such things as wax emulsification, use in insecticide and herbicide combinations, buffing agents, leather degreasers, paper rewetters, dry-cleaners, auto polishes, de-inkers, etc. In terms of application to the cosmetic industry, several examples are available. Ethomeen S/25 (Soya amine plus 15 mols of ethylene oxide) has been tried as a dye solubilizer and viscosity stabilizer in hair tints the Ethomids (amide plus ethylene oxide) have been tried as plasticizers and softeners in shellacs for hair sprays the etho-chemicals have been suggested as viscosity controllers for Ninol type shampoos and hair oils 5% of equal parts of Ethofat 60/15 (fatty acid plus ethylene oxide) and 60/20 has been suggested for lanolin or mineral oil emulsification in water and a combination of Ethomeen S/12, S/20, and Arquad 2C gives a satisfactory formulation for a lanolin emulsion hair dressing. In addition, since ethanolamine sulfite is known as a hair waving in- gredient, perhaps Ethomeen C/12 sulfite will also function in this capacity, since it, too, is an ethanolamine type of derivative. In conclusion, it seems to me that any future developments in this field will come from two sources. First, from an interest in and the application of these very versatile chemicals by the cosmetic chemist himself, and secondly, from the active application research programs of the companies supplying these chemicals.