CHLOROPHYLL IN COSMETICS 89 special processes. The products are almost invariably "tailor-made" to fit the product. A mixture of commercial chlorine and rhodin g is one form of alcohol-soluble chlorophyll, but it is entirely unsuitable for most uses as its deodorization power is quite low. COLOGNE STICKS Most of these products contain insufficient chlorophyllin to be very ef- fective. This is probably due to the lack of' information •r'dgarding the availability oftalcohol-soluble chlorophyll and the staining action of green derivatives. The water-soluble ch16•Ophylb derivatives can be used in most of these products. Rubbing al•ot•ols may'•ontain'as much as 50 mg. chlorophyllin per 100 ml. before noticeable staining. COLOGNE The information previously given, concerning mouth washes and cologne sticks can also be applied to colognes. TOILET SOAPS AND SHAMPOOS One of the oldest and most legitimate uses for chlorophyll derivatives is that of coloring soaps. Both the oil-soluble and the water-soluble copper chlorophyll derivatives are used. Chlorophyll produces a green soap with a minimmn of mottling. In most cases insufficient chlorophyll is used to effect proper deodorization. Larger amounts are undoubtedly effective. SUN TAN PREPARATIONS The light absorption properties of the presently available chlorophyll derivatives unfortunately do not meet the requirements for these products. However, by combining red dyes with green chlorophyllins, very satisfac- tory "tans" are produced. The healing action of chlorophyllin also is of importance in these preparations. UNDERARM PREPARATIONS It is difficult to incorporate enough chlorophyllins in this type product to be very effective without staining. Research designed to overcome this difficulty is presently under way. Certain calcium derivatives may prove to be satisfactory, such as those used in dusting powders and which, al- though insoluble, exhibit deodorant action. HAIR OILS AND POMADES Oil-soluble chlorophyll derivatives have been used in this type prepara- tion for a number of years. Chlorophyll's dyeing action is important in these preparations.

90 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS MASCARAS The desirable bluish greens of these products are often obtained through the use of small significant quantities of certain chlorophyll derivatives. To the best of our knowledge, no one is presently using chlorophyll in lip- sticks, rouges, facial packs, facial creams, cuticle removers, or depilatories or cold waves, although their use in such products is indicated. CONCLUSION The use of chlorophyll in various cosmetics has been described. The ef- tectiveness of chlorophyll as a contact deodorant is clearly proved by recent scientific evidence and the effectiveness of cosmetics containing chlorophyll is due to the use of the sufficient amount or type of chlorophyll. CHEMICALS FROM FATS AND OILS: A SOURCE OF COSMETIC RAW MATERIALS* By Pau• DuBP, ow Product Research Section, •Irmour and Company, Chicago 9, IlL T•E S^TURALL¾ occurring fats and oils offer one of the largest potential sources of raw materials for the preparation of chemical syn- thetics. The total annual world production of these materials is about 25 million tons, although only some 15 per cent of this is generally avail- able for the compounds we are interested in, the so-called fatty acid de- rivatives. Chemically, of course, the fats and oils are triglycerides, which, upon hydrolysis and separation, give rise to our starting fatty acids. These may be separated, in excellent yields, into primarily the lauric, hexadecyl, octadecyl, and octadecenyl acids. From these the range of possible prod- ucts and applications is almost limitless. The fatty acid, chemically, is a combination of a long, non-polar, hydro- phobic hydrocarbon chain and a strongly polar, hydrophilic carboxyl group, a highly favorable combination for surface activity. Both elements of the molecule offer approaches to further derivative formation and modi- fication. Let us consider, first, the preparation of the basically non-nitrogenous derivatives of these compounds, with particular reference to tried and suggested applications in the cosmetic field. Neutralization, with organic amines or inorganic alkalies, offers the * Presented at the November 10, 1953, Meeting of the Chicago Section, Chicago, Ill.