ANALYTICAL CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS 417 This concern has recently been highlighted with respect to D & C Green (1,4-bis[(4-methylphenyl)amino]-9,10-anthracenedione), which is listed in the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) for use in drugs and cosmetics. Because it is a certified dye, each commercially-prepared batch of this color is subject to FDA certification. This material is formed by reacting 1 mole of quinizarin with 2 moles of p-toluidine. D & C Green//16 has been shown to be safe for external use however, literature reports have demonstrated that p-toluidine is a carcinogen in mice (89). Residual amounts of reactants such as p-toluidine are commonly found in this color, and trace levels are unavoidably present even in highly purified reagent grade material. Until recently, there were no validated methods available for detecting trace levels of p-toluidine in D & C Green//16, thus the reluctance of the FDA to "permanently" list this color for use in consumer products. Several methods have since been reported (90,91) which can detect p-toluidine at the 500 ppb level and probably lower. The methods involve separation by HPLC followed by UV or fluorescence detection. This approach by the regulatory agencies of requiring analytical methodology for hazardous trace components in compounds shown to be safe is becoming standard, and the cosmetic analytical chemist will become more involved in developing trace analytical techniques for quality control of these raw materials. REFERENCES (1) L. R. Snyder and J.J. Kirkland, Introduction to Modern Liquid Chromatography, 2nd Edition (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., New York, 1979). (2) R. Namba, H. Nishiya, A. Shibamoto, Y. Morikawa, S. Tahara, and T. Mitsui, "Development of new automated analysis system of cosmetics by means of computer," IFSSC 12th International Congress, Paris, September 13-17, 1982. (3) Anionic Surfactants--Chemical Analysis, Surfactant Science Series, Vol. 8, J. Cross, Ed. (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1977). (4) J. Cross, Cationic Surfactants, E.Jungermann, Ed. (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1970), pp 419-482. (5) J. H. Jones, General colorimetric method for the determination of small quantities of sulfonated or sulfated surface active compounds,J. Assoc. O•c. Ag. Chemists, 28, 389-409 (1945). (6) G. P. Edwards, W. E. Ewers, and W. W. Mansfield, Determination of sodium cetyl sulfate and its solution in water, Analyst, 77, 205-207 (1952). (7) K. Burger, Methods for quantitative micro-determination and trace detection of surface active compounds. I. Detection and determination of very small amounts of anionics and cationics in aqueous solution, Z. Anal. Chem., 196, 15-21 (1963). (8) G. S. Buchanan and J. C. Griffith, Polarographic estimation of anionic detergents, J. Electroanal. Chem., 5, 204-207 (1963). (9) Laboratory Methods in Infrared Spectroscopy, 2nd Edition, R. G.J. Miller and B.C. Stace, Eds. (Heyden and Sons, Ltd., London, 1972). (10) D. Hummel, Identification and Analysis of Surface Active Agents by Infrared and Chemical Methods (Interscience Publishers, New York, 1962). (11) L.J. Bellamy, The Infrared Spectra of Complex Mokcuks, 2nd Edition (Methuen and Co., Ltd., London, 1958). (12) W. Brugel, An Introduction to Infrared Spectroscopy (Methuen and Co., Ltd., London, 1962). (13) N. B. Colthup, L. H. Daly, and S. E. Wiberley, Introduction to Infrared and Raman Spectroscopy (Academic Press, New York, 1964). (14) R. G. Sinclair, A. F. McKay, G. S. Myers, and R. N. Jones, The infrared absorption spectra of unsaturated fatty acids and esters,J. Am. Chem. Soc., 74, 2578-2585 (1952). (15) M. Aoki and Y. Iwayama, Determination of ionic surface active agents with dyes. IV. Applicability of fluorescein dyes and indicator, and stability of anionic detergents in solution, Yakugaku Zasshi (Tokyo), 80, 1749 (1960) (in Japanese). (16) W. E. Link, H. M. Hickman, and R. A. Morrissette, Gas-liquid chromatography of fatty derivatives. II.
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