j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 34, 399-405 (November 1983) Abstracts The Annual Scientific Meetings and Seminars of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists are important venues for informing the participants about the state of the art and recent technical advances in the field of Cosmetic Science. To provide broader dissemination of that information, the Publication Committee has decided to publish abstracts of the technical presentations made at these Meetings and Seminars in theJournaL--The Editor. Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Scientific Meeting New York, NY, December 1-2, 1983 SCIENTIFIC SESSION I BIOTECHNOLOGY OF COSMETICS Biology of connective tissue and relevance to cosmetic technology Dale P. DeVore, Ph.D., 3M Company, 270-4N 08 3M Center, St. Paul, MN 55144 In recent years rapid progress has been made in many areas of biotechnology. The techniques that have evolved from biotechnology are being applied to increase understanding of connective tissue physiology and biochemistry. This presentation will focus on connective tissue, particularly skin, and will provide recent information on chemical com- position and physical structure and on cell biology of the extracellular matrix. This better understand- ing of connective tissue biology has obvious rele- vance to cosmetic technology, and could lead to production of cosmetic formulations to maintain tissue integrity and improve desirable characteris- tics of these tissues. The potential impact of recombinant DNA technology on the cosmetic industry Marcel Faber, Ph.D., BIO/TECHNOLOGY, 15 E. 26th St., New York, NY 10010 Biotechnology can make an impact on the cos- metic industry, but must be cost effective. Applica- tions range from novel antimicrobial agents and stabilizers to biopolymers. An economic analysis of a compound produced both by extraction and recombinant DNA techniques, and illustrating potential problems, will be given. Potential impact of genetic engineering on the cosmetic industry Charles F. Schachtele, Ph.D., and Susan K. Harlan- der, Schools of Dentistry and Medicine, University of Minnesota, Minneapolis, MN 55455 Biotechnology involves the use of living organisms or their components in industrial processes. Genetic engineering techniques can alter the hered- itary apparatus of microorganisms, plants, and animals. Recombinant DNA techniques can be used to insert important genes into vectors to transfer the genes from one host to another. An engineered host can be used to produce large quantities of pure nonprotein components such as antibiotics and polysaccrides and proteins such as enzymes, antibodies, and hormones. New sources of unique materials for use in cosmetics will become available as selected genes are cloned, and purification of their product optimized. One can envision the development of cosmetics with unique properties with primary emphasis on the in vitro production of components normally found in the various secretions. 399

400 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Biotechnology and the cosmetics industry: impact of new production technologies James w. Bracke, Ph.D., and Kipling Thacker, Diagnostic, Inc., 1955 W. County Road B-2, St. Paul, MN 55113 Applications for certain biotechnology-derived raw materials in cosmetics and other product areas are necessitating the development of novel manufac- turing methods. Many of the newly developed compounds being produced are technically com- plex to prepare and handle, labile, and required in large quantities of high purity. Some recent devel- opments in production technology will be con- sidered, concentrating on the manufacture of chemical specialties of biological origin. The devel- opment of a new process for producing hyaluronic acid will be used as an example. The advantages and disadvantages involved in using manufacturing techniques which employ aerobic and anaerobic cell-culture production systems with genetically modified components will be discussed. Particular attention will be given to the current capabilities, limitations, and future development needs of such processes. Some significant developments in down- stream processing which have particular relevance to biological materials will also be discussed with respect to their anticipated impact on the develop- ment of biological processes. SCIENTIFIC SESSION II Photographic standardization of dry skin Ronald L. Rizer, Ph.D., John C. Seitz, and Thomas S. Spencer, Ph.D., S.C. Johnson& Son, 1525 Howe Street, Racine, WI 53403 Photographic standards were developed to provide visual definition for a range of scaling, cracking, and erythema observed with typical dry skin. All photographs were obtained with a Nikon f-3 cam- era and 105 mm macro lens under standardized conditions. Photographic standards were selected by viewing over 1,000 photographs taken during a study to evaluate the effect of lotion treatment on dry skin. Normal and most severe cases of dry skin were assigned 0 and 9, respectively. Intermediate grades of untreated dry skin were ranked in order of dry skin severity by an iterative procedure where all photographs were reviewed independently by several qualified readers, and repeated until all readers agreed with each other's selections. When clinical photographs taken under standardized con- ditions in a comparative study were evaluated using the photographic standards, significant improve- ments were shown in scaling, cracking, and ery- thema with lotion treatments. Photographic stan- dards of dry skin provided visual definition and documentation of skin condition. Also, they lend themselves to blind, independent evaluations of dry skin by multiple observers. Enhancement of the sensitivity of the Buehler method by use of the Hill Top Chamber D. L. Conine, Ph.D., J. L. Lichtin, Ph.D., and M. Polikandritou, Hill Top Research, P.O. Box 42501, Cincinnati, OH 45242 Tests of delayed contact hypersensitivity were con- ducted on guinea pigs using Buehler methodology to compare the sensitivity of the method using the Hill Top Chamber (HTC), a new plastic occlusive chamber and patch system, and the Webril patch (WP), Skin reactions were induced at significantly lower concentrations for samples tested with the HTC than for those tested with the WP, Four compounds, 1-chloro-2, 4-dinitrobenzene (DNCB), neomycin sulfate (NS), p-phenylenediamine (PPDA), and potassium dichromate (PD) were used as allergens. For each compound, the following steps were carried out: (1) three 0.4 ml induction applications, one per week, on the same site on the same animal (2) two week period of relaxation (3) a challenge application on a naive site and (4) rechallenge applications. For PPDA, EC50 were significantly lowered from 0.04% to 0,02% in ani- mals induced with the WP and HTC, respectively. For PD, EC•0 were significantly lowered from a calculated value of 11.0% to. 0.6% in animals induced with the WP and HTC, respectively. Con- centrations of 20% and 10% NS in petrolatum produced significantly higher percentages of re- sponders in animals sensitized via the HTC than in those with the WP. Similar results were found in comparisons involving DNCB. Effect of the chemical irritants anthralin and benzoyl peroxide on mouse skin epithelial cell protein production ChristopherJ. Molloy, Jeffrey D. Laskin, Ph.D., and Michael A. Gallo, Ph.D., UMDNJ-Rutgers Medi- cal School, Piscataway, NJ 08854 The widely used topical agents anthralin (An) and benzoyl peroxide (BP) are potent skin irritants. In the mouse skin model these compounds are hyper- plasiogenic and effective skin tumor promoters. Using the animal model, we compared the effect of these compounds with the tumor promoter 12- O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate (TPA) on pro- tein production in epidermal cells. The compounds were applied topically to the shaved dorsal skin of