396 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Sodium Cocoglyceryl Ether Sulfonate is given the same RIF number as the folk- 1oricJojoba Extract. A technologist and a promotionalist will place opposite values on such ingredients, discounting the worth of the other. Those interested in statistics intrinsically should appreciate the RIF calculation, but the tabulation of ingredient popularity, presented in the text, suffices for general interest. The second main section, spanning about two-thirds of the book, is an ency- clopedic mixture of chemical dictionary and technical essay. It is the section by which the book will find its use, and it is the section in which Mr. Hunting shines as a technologist. When an ingredient is discussed, its chemical classification and formula are presented, its reason for use is given, and safety data, physical data, and use level are disclosed. Also given are the suppliers of the ingredient, the commer- cial shampoos having the constituent and statistical marketing data. However, it is the attendant technical information which Mr. Hunting provides in detail for all ingredient listings that is most invaluable. For example, on Cocamide MEA: "Be- cause secondary amides are much more resistant to hydrolysis than tertiary amides, coconut monoethanolamide should be preferred to coconut dietha- nolamide in acid shampoos." On Coconut Oil: "Ingredient labels can be misleading if a chemical reaction occurs during the processing of a shampoo. Except for small amounts of unreacted material, a shampoo, which from a study of the label, appears to contain coconut oil may not in fact do so." On Nucleic Acid: "It is doubtful that the addition of a nucleic acid contributes to the performance of a shampoo." In these discussions Mr. Hunt- ing supplies a blend of authoritative scien- tific wisdom, common sense, and a highly subjective point of view gathered from personal experience. The feeling the reader gets is that the author has extended his thoughts openly to those eager to be informed. Certainly not every one will agree with Mr. Hunting's pronounce- ments nevertheless, his insights are refreshingly candid and welcome. Interspersed with the chemical dictio- nary, Mr. Hunting has written several dozen definitive essays ranging from aspects of shampoo marketing to indus- trial chemistry. These articles discuss the composition of shampoos in various mar- keting categories (Herbal, Ethnic, Salon, Baby, Color, etc.). They tell about the ingredient classes used in formulation (Preservatives, Conditioning Agents, Che- lating Agents, Antidandruff Agents, etc.). They detail the chemistry of raw materials (Ethoxylates, Sorbitan Derivatives, Poly- mers and Resins, etc.). Particularly well covered are the subjects of Imidazoline- Derived Amphoterics, Fatty Acids, Foam Boosters and Stabilizers, and Fatty Alco- hol Sulfates. Unfortunately, Mr. Hunting does not supply an index to his technical articles. One has to leaf through pages to find that "Interrupted Soaps" falls under "Mild Shampoo Ingredients." An index would also guide the reader to incidental subjects such as Oxo and Ziegler chemis- try which are covered under the Lauryl Alcohol heading. There is no need to index specific ingredients they are arranged alphabetically in the encyclope- dia conforming to the nomenclature in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, both second and third editions. In a page towards the end of the book the author acknowledges the havoc obso- lescence could play with the timeliness of the encyclopedia's content. He takes this opportunity to update the subjects of Colors, Formaldehyde, and Medicated Shampoos. Also provided are several appendices giving raw material supplier information and tabulations of statistical data. He closes the book with a bibliogra- phy for the pursuing reader and a list of 273 references cited in the text.
BOOK REVIEW 397 With respect to the physical quality of the book, the page paper requires upgrad- ing and so does the intensity of the ink which appears somewhat faded, perhaps because of the yellowish tone and poros- ity of the heavy paper. Micelle Press, Inc., the publisher, has placed a steep $75.00 price on the book its purchase can be justified solely from the teachings of Mr. Hunting. This book does not conflict with the intent of the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary but rather supple- ments its application in the special sector occupied by shampoo ingredients.- TERRY GERSTEIN -- Revlon Re- search Center, Inc.
Previous Page Next Page