MOISTURE MEASUREMENT BY NIR SPECTROSCOPY 261 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author wishes to thank P. L. Walling for her initial work on NIR reflectance of skin and her continued contributions to this work, and R. Samaritano for her help in collecting the spectra. REFERENCES (1) A.M. Kligman, Regression method for assessing the efficacy of moisturizers, Cosmet. Toiletr., 93, 27-35 (1978). (2) M. Obata and H. Tagami, A rapid in vitro test to assess skin moisturizers,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 41, 235-241 (1990). (3) R. O. Potts, Stratum corneum hydration: Experimental techniques and interpretation of results, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 37, 9-33 (1986). (4) J. R. Hansen and W. Yellin, "NMR and Infrared Spectroscopic Studies of Stratum Corneum Hy- dration," in Water Structure at the Water-Polymer Interface, H. H. G. Jellinek, Ed. (Plenum Press, New York, 1972), pp. 19-28. (5) W. Gehring, M. Gehse, V. Zimmerman, and M. Gloor, Effects ofpH changes in a specific detergent multicomponent emulsion on the water content of stratum corneum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 42, 327-333 (1991). (6) R. O. Potts, D. B. Guzek, R. R. Harris, and J. E. McKie, A non-invasive, in vivo technique to quantitatively measure water concentration of the stratum corneum using attenuated total reflectance infrared spectroscopy, Arch. Dermatol. Res., 277, 489-495 (1985). (7) P. L. Walling and J. M. Dabney, Moisture in skin by near-infrared reflectance spectroscopy, J. Soco Cosmet. Chem., 40, 151-171 (1989). (8) P. Geladi, D. MacDougall, and H. Martens, Linearization and scatter correction for near-infrared reflectance spectra of meat, Appl. Spec., 39, 491-500 (1985). (9) K. A. Martin, Recent advances in near-infrared spectroscopy, Appl. Spectrosc. Rev. 27, 325-383 (1992). (10) J. D. Hardy, H. T. Hammel, and D. Murgatroyd, Spectral transmittance and reflectance of excised human skin, J. Appl. Physiol., 9, 257-264 (1956). (11) R. R. Anderson, J. Hu, and J. A. Parrish, "Optical Radiation Transfer in the Human Skin and Applications in In Vivo Remittance Spectroscopy," in Bioengineering and the Skin, R. Marks and P. A. Payne, Eds. (MTP Press, Lancaster, England, 1981) pp. 253-265. (12) B. G. Osborne and T. Fearn, Near Infrared Spectroscopy in Food Analysis (Longman Scientific and Technology, New York, 1986), pp. 49-51. (13) W. A. Luck, "Hydrogen Bonds in Liquid Water," in The Hydrogen Bond, Vol. III, P. Shuster, G. Zundel, and C. Sandorty, Eds. (Elsevier-North Holland, Amsterdam, 1976), pp. 1369-1423. (14) R. J. Scheuplein, A survey of some fundamental aspects of the absorption and reflection of light by tissue, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 15, 111-122 (1964). (15) J. L. Solan and K. Laden, Factors affecting the penetration of light through stratum corneum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 28, 125-137 (1977). (16) P. T. Pugliese and A. J. Milligan, "Ellipsometric Measurement of Skin Refractive Index In Vivo," in Bioengineering and the Skin, R. Marks and P. A. Payne, Eds. (MTP Press, Lancaster, England, 1981) pp. 291-302. (17) A. J. Quattrone and K. Laden, Physical techniques for assessing skin moisturization, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 27, 607-623 (1976). (18) T. M. Kajs and V. Garstein, Review of the instrumental assessment of skin: Effects of cleansing products, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 42, 249-271 (1991).
j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 263-278 (September/October 1993) Interactions of cationic and anionic surfactants on hair surfaces: Light-scattering and radiotracer studies CHARLES REICH and CLARENCE R. ROBBINS, Colgate-Palmolive Research Center, 909 River Road, Piscataway, NJ 08854-1343. Received March 10, 1993. Synopsis Light-scattering techniques, supplemented by radiotracer studies, have been used in this work to demon- strate formation on hair surfaces of insoluble complexes between some common cationic conditioner actives and anionic lauryl and laureth sulfates. These complexes, which were found to be very dulling and resistant to cleaning by C 12-based detergents, were shown to form in tress treatments and also in treatments of full heads of hair. Alkyl ether sulfates having hydrophobic chain lengths of 6, 8, or 10 were found not to form the above types of complexes on hair and were shown to be superior for use in cleaning conditioners. In experiments with conditioner actives, contributions to buildup were found from both conditioner and detergent deposition. In the case of commercial conditioners, buildup was observed only as a result of excess detergent deposition in the presence of conditioner. In both cases, formation of insoluble complexes led to greatly reduced cleaning by lauryl or laureth sulfate-based shampoos. INTRODUCTION In a previous paper, Reich and Robbins (1) described the use of light-scattering tech- niques to follow cleaning and soiling of the hair surface. Using the demonstrated techniques, along with dye staining methods, it was shown that complexes could form on hair between Polyquaternium-10 cations and myristate anions when these two species were deposited on the hair from different shampoos. Formation of these complexes was shown to have a negative effect since the resultant deposits were very dulling and quite resistant to removal from the fiber surface. In work previous to the above, Robbins et al. (2) demonstrated the formation of a different type of complex on hair, between cationic stearalkonium chloride (SAC) or cetrimonium chloride (CTAC) particles and conventional, anionic shampoo detergents. The former two species are conditioner actives commonly found in many commercial conditioners. Because of the nature of the techniques used in reference 2 to establish complex forma- tion, dye staining and radiotracers, it was not possible to say much concerning the effects on hair of complex formation. In addition, although the possibility of complex 263
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