HEMP-SEED AND OLIVE OILS 249 Table XVI Composition (w/w %) of Formulation 12 Containing Olive Oil and Hemp-Seed Oil, Using Sucrose Tristearate or Palmitate (DUB SE® 3S and DUB SE® 15P) as Surfactants (20,21) Ingredients DUB SE® 3S Finsolv TN® Hemp-seed oil Olive oil Dimethicone Eurol BT® GMS Harnarnelis distillate DUB SE® 15P Sepigel 305® Gram Kathan CG® Water Table XVII Emulsion 12 (w/w %) 2 5 3 2 0.5 0.1 2.5 10 4 2 0.3 0.05 68.55 Composition (w/w %) of Formulation 13 Containing Olive Oil and Hemp-Seed Oil, Using Sucrose Mono- or Distearate (Sistema SP30® and Sistema SP50®) as Surfactants (15,16) Ingredients Finsolv TN® Hemp-seed oil Olive oil Dimethicone Eurol BT® Cetearyl alcohol Harnarnelis distillate Sistema SP30® Sistema SP50® Sepigel 305® Gram Kathan CG® Water Table XVIII Viscosity and pH Values of Emulsions 9A and 9B Viscosity (mPa s) at 1.25 s- 1 Viscosity (mPa s) at 2.5 s- 1 Viscosity (mPa s) at 5 s- 1 pH before heating pH after heating (40°C for 24 h) Emulsion 9A 9000 7600 6600 5.95 5.86 Emulsion 13(w/w %) 5 2.5 2.5 0.5 0.1 2.5 10 3 5 1 0.3 0.05 68.55 Emulsion 9B 35400 23500 14800 4.02 4.05
250 1200 - 1000 800 C ., 600 400 .. 200 0 0 CONCLUSIONS JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 10 20 30 •upper curve before heating -back curve before heating ---+- upper curve after heating - - -t - - back curve after heating Figure 4. Rheological trend of emulsion 9B. The physicochemical characteristics of hemp-seed oil found were close to those reported in the literature. Hemp-seed oil was stable against oxidation, as shown by the peroxide number below 20 and by the results of MDA and MONO assays. This stability is probably due to the oil's vitamin E content. Emulsions prepared with vegetable oils (olive and hemp-seed oils) were stable and showed a pseudoplastic-Newtonian flux. Some gel-emulsions were obtained that are easily sprayable on the skin and have a pleasant skin feel and texture. REFERENCES (1) P. Ranalli and B. Canarini, Hemp: The return of a prestigious culture, L'lnformatore Agrario, 39, 55-62 (1997). (2) S. Amaducci and G. Venturi, The European project on hemp, L'lnformatore Agrario, 26, 32-33 (1998). (3) G. Venturi and M. T. Amaducci, Will hemp be part of the crops of 2000?, L'lnformatore Agrario, I, 61-65 (1999). (4) C. Meier and V. Mediavilla, Factors influencing the yield and the quality of hemp (CannabiJ Jativa 1.) essential oil,]. Int. Hemp An., 1, 16-20 (1998). (5) P.-G. Sator, J.B. Schmidt, and H. Honigsmann, Comparison of epidermal hydration and skin surface lipids in healthy individuals and in patients with atopic dermatitis, J. Am. Acad. Dermatol., 48, 352-358 (2003). (6) D. M. Alden, J. L. Proops, and P. W. Gay, Industrial hemp's double dividend: A study for the USA, Ecol. Econ., 25, 291-301 (1998). (7) B. D. B. D. Oomah, M. M. Busson, D. V. Godfrey, and C. G. Drover, Characteristic of hemp (CannabiJ Jativa L.) seed oil, Food Chem., 76, 33-43 (2002). (8) M. D. Salvador, F. Aranda, S. Gomez-Alonso, and G. Fregapane, Cornicabra virgin olive oil: A study of five crop seasons. Composition, quality and oxidative stability, Food Chem., 74, 267-274 (2001). (9) Official Pharmacopeia of the Italian Republic, ed. X (Rome, 1998), pp. 80-81. (10) P. Cappelli and V. Vannucchi, Food chemistry: Conservation and transformation, Zanichelli (1994).
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