J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 45 (January/February 2009) 45 SKIN BARRIER: CHEMISTRY OF SKIN DELIVERY SYSTEMS, Johann W. Wiechers, Ed. (Allured Publishing Corp., Carol Stream, IL, 2008), 658 pp. This is a ponderous book, a compilation of over 650 pages, including 61 articles that have appeared in various Allured mag- azines over the last several years plus two new chapters written specifi cally for this book. The authors include many well- known authorities in this fi eld, including the editor, Johann Wiechers, as well as Joel Zatz, Howard Maibach, and many others. As should be expected, this collection of review articles gives an extensive review of the fi eld, but some are superfi cial in depth. The reference list at the end of each chapter, however, allows the reader who is interested in an in-depth description of a particular as- pect to dig deeper. Depending on the date of the review, the references can be up-to-date or, unfortunately, quite old. Thus, the latest article cited in Chapter 6 is eleven years old! In almost three-fourths of the chapters the date of the most recent citation was at least fi ve years old. This means that a researcher intending to do research in this fi eld and ex- pecting to use this book as a starting point will fi nd that he will still need to conduct a traditional literature search to bring him- self up-to-date. For the cosmetic chemist who wishes to formulate with skin penetra- tion in mind (either to aid or avoid skin pen- etration of specifi c ingredients), these articles provide a ready source of information. As the editor, Johann Weichers, points out in his introductory chapter, skin pene- tration can be either a benefi t or a danger for ingredients in a topical preparation, de- pending on whether one is striving to cause penetration of a benefi cial substance or hoping to prevent penetration of a toxic substance. In this regard, there is little in- formation or discussion of the toxic effects of absorbed substances or the regulatory as- pects of skin absorption of substances that can have pharmacological or toxic effects.. The book is divided into three sections. The fi rst section is an introduction, which consists mainly of the basics of skin pene- tration and the practical means of avoiding or enhancing skin penetration. The second section is on delivery sys- tems, including emulsions, vesicles, encap- sulation, and miscellaneous systems such as wipes, iontophoresis, aerosol foams, and patches. It also includes a chapter on deliv- ery systems for home air aromas and two chapters on producing textiles with fra- grance materials, a bit of a stretch for a book on the skin barrier. The third section is entitled “Special Chemistry in Delivery Systems” and in- cludes chapters on emulsions as skin deliv- ery systems and on silicones. There are also four papers on solvents, surfactants, and polymers. Overall, the book is interesting, and contains a wide spectrum of information on skin delivery systems and their applica- tions to cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. It serves as a reasonable starting point for a cosmetic chemist interested in formulat- ing for, or avoiding, skin penetration. —HERMAN E. JASS—Jass Associates. Book Review

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 47–48 (January/February 2009) 47 A Tentative Mechanism of Oxidative Dyeing for Keratin Fibers Kyohei Joko, Yumi Yoshikatsu Kyoto Women’s University 35, Kita-hiyoshi, Imakumano, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto 605-8501, Japan A number of papers have been published on the oxidation coupling reactions of the active intermediate of a dye precursor with an electron-rich dye coupler. At the present stage, however, little information is available about the oxidative reaction mechanism to colored oxidation products and the dye distribution inside the keratin fi bers. From the results of dyeing in the presence of both reducing agent and chelate agent, we found that the coupling reaction developing oxidation dyes occurred on the outer surface in the cuticle cell phase, and that not only the cell membrane complex (CMC) regions play an important role as accumulation regions of the fi nished dye, but also the components of CMC contribute directly to the oxidation coupling reactions. Furthermore, we suggested from the other results that the metal ions and disulphide bond presented primarily within the intercellular materials play an important role in developing the colored oxidation dye. Then, on the basis of the general scheme of the oxidation dye process, we proposed a tentative mechanistic scheme of oxidative dyeing to account for the oxidation dying phenomenon of keratin fi bers. The scheme is made up of four step-reactions. Enhancing Facial Beauty : Diminishing Tension-Caused Forehead Wrinkles through Upper Back Massage *Ai Oba**, Chihiro Sato***, Kiyomi Takahashi***, Mikayo Futagawa ***Cutaneous Drug Research Department**, Quality Research Department***, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc.** 560, Kashio-cho, Totsuka-ku, Yokohama 244-0812, Japan*** 27-1, Takashima-dai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama 221-0833, Japan The organs and tissues of the human body function together, and many women know that facial skin quality can be infl uenced by the condition of other areas. From the perspective of esthetics, the condition of other tissues and organs can have signifi cant impact on facial skin. In our lives, increasing numbers of people experience pain and discomfort in the neck and shoulder region this study investigates the effects of neck / shoulder pain and discomfort on facial beauty, and demonstrates that facial beauty can be improved by alleviating this pain and discomfort. Shoulder pain and discomfort are correlated to increased shoulder muscle stiffness, increased tension in the frontalis muscle (a muscle of facial expression in the forehead), and forehead wrinkling. We show that body massage aimed at alleviating muscle tension in the neck and upper back alleviate frontalis muscle tension and improve forehead wrinkles. Since other non-facial factors are likely to affect facial beauty, our results show that measures to make the face beautiful and healthy-looking involve the entire body. Optimizing Performance of Makeup Products by Controlling Surface Free Energy *Takamasa Toyoda**, Hirokazu Iyanagi**, Kunihiko Mohri**, Katsuhiko Nakamae*** Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 42, No. 3, 2008* * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science.