JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 54 L. J. M. Coiffard, Université de Nantes, Nantes Atlantique Universités, LPiC, MMS, EA2160, Faculty of Pharmacy, 1 rue G. Veil - BP 53508, Nantes F-44000, France. Tel.: +33 2 40 41 28 73 fax: + 33 2 40 41 29 87 e-mail: laurence. coiffard@univ-nantes.fr Apart from the protection offered by clothing, the application of sunscreen products suited to each type of skin constitutes one way for decreasing the frequency of skin cancers nowadays. After having adapted an in vitro method for determining the effi cacy of sunscreens in emulsion form, we wished to transpose this technique by adapting it for the anti-solar sticks for the evaluation of sun protection factor (SPF) using a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere. To do this, we tested 14 products in the market as well as sticks that we ourselves fabricated in the laboratory. In a base common to all of these sticks, we added organic (13 fi lters tested) and inorganic (two fi lters tested, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) to their maximum permitted concentration in the European Union. In parallel, emulsions containing the same fi lters at the same percentage of use were studied to be in keeping with the results on the products packaging on the one hand, and with the results obtained for the emulsion form on the other hand, we were able to determine the optimal mass which needed to be placed on the support used the in vitro test to determine the SPF. Simultaneous determination of 21 preservatives in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography T. Wu, C. Wang, X. Wang and Q. Ma Chinese Academy of Inspection and Quarantine, Beijing 100025, China Ting Wu, Chinese Academy of Inspection and Quarantine, Beijing 100025, China. Tel.: +86 1085772625 fax: +86 1085772625 e-mail: ppwtpp@126.com An ultra performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) method has been developed for the simultaneous determination of 21 preservatives: 2-methyl-4- isothiazoline-3-ketone, bronopol, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4- isothiazoline-3-ketone, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenoxyethanol, methyl-p-hydroxy benzoate, ethyl-p-hydroxy benzoate, methyl benzoate, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid iso-propyl ester, propyl-phydroxy benzoate, 4-chloro-3-methylphenol, ethyl benzoate, 2-phenylphenol, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid iso-butyl ester, butyl-p-hydroxy benzoate, 4-chloro- 3,5-dimethylphenol, phenyl benzoate, 2,4-dichloro-3,5- dimethylphenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, triclocarban and triclosan in cosmetics. A Waters ACQUITY UPLC BEH C18 column was used with 0.1% formic acid solution as the mobile phase under the condition of gradient elution. Preservatives were extracted with methanol by ultrasonicator, and then they were analysed by UPLC-PDA detector. All these preservatives were baseline separated in 8.5 min. The pre-treatment method of samples and the chromatographic condition of analysis were critically examined in this study. The recoveries ranged from 90.5 to 97.8%, with RSD values below 3.2%, and all correlation coeffi cients (r) were no less than 0.9997. Thus, this method could be used for analysing the preservatives in cosmetic products. Validation of HPLC method for quantitative determination of Tinosorb_S and three other sunscreens in a high protection cosmetic product L. Dencausse*, A. Galland*, J. L. Clamou* and J. Basso_ *Laboratires ASEPTA, Recherche et Développement Analytique, 1–3, avenue Prince Albert II, B. P. 649, MC 98013, Monaco Cedex, France and _Faculté des Sciences, Université de Nice Sophia-Antipolis, Parc Valrose, 06108 Nice cedex 2, France Laurent Dencausse, 1-3, avenue Albert II, B. P. 649, 98013 Monaco, France.Tel.: +377 92057551 fax: +377 92055699 e-mail: ldencausse@asepta.mc A chromatographic method (high performance liquid chromatography) with a diode array detector was developed for simulaneous assay of Tinosorb_S (bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) with three other sunscreen agents [benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate] in high protection sunscreen. Separations were performed on a RP-18 Nucleodur_Gravity_column (150 ´ 4.6 mm, 5 lm) eluted with a ternary gradient mixture constituted of tetrahydrofuran, acetonitrile and an aqueous solution of acetic acid. The quantitative analysis was achieved with internal calibration performed with octyl dimethyl paraaminobenzoate (PABA) at 330 nm. In accordance with the analytical references (SFSTP, ICH, ISO...), the accuracy of the method was evaluated using a statistical approach of the validation parameters (specifi city, response function, linearity, precision and trueness). For each studied ultraviolet fi lter, an accuracy profi le was determined on a predicted range. These profi les show a graphical representation of the recovery percentage and confi dence limits centred on 100%. The method is validated and can be used for analysis in cosmetic sunscreen products.

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 55–56 (January/February 2009) 55 Hydrolysed Proteins in Cosmetic’s Production Marta Scibisz, Jacek Arct, Katarzyna Pytkowska Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care, Warsaw, Poland The basic amino acid content of a protein depends on genetic code and is strictly connected with its source. Hydrolysates which are derived from the same proteins such as collagen, keratin, wheat, and corn or soy gluten have similar amino acid content. Process modifi cation of obtaining plant-based hydrolysates enables production of the cosmetic raw materials with physicochemical properties similar to animal-derived hydrolysed proteins, i.e. collagen. This is impossible in case of proteins with very characteristic amino acid content, such as elastin, which is in 80% built with non polar amino acids. Most of protein-based cosmetic raw materials is produced by using simple globular and fi brous proteins derived from animal (mammal, fi sh) or plant sources. Less popular are proteins obtained from lower organisms (algae, fungi). Conjugated proteins (proteoglycans, nucleoproteins) are used more rarely. They are received in the form of animal or plant tissue extracts. The most important criteria, which determine selection of the protein source for the cosmetic raw materials production, is availability, cost of production and its market value. Lanolin derivatives in bath formulas Marian Wlodzimierz Sulek, Tomasz Wasilewski, Marta Ogorzalek Radom University of Technology, Department of Chemistry The Lanolin is one of the most appreciated raw materials used in cosmetic industry. Its basic form is mostly used in the so called white cosmetics - creams, balms and lotion type emulsions. For the washing and cleansing reparations, the ethoxylated and ethoxylated-propoxylated lanolin has a better hydrophilicity, but maintains its skin fattening performance. The main purpose of the present research was to optimize formulas recipes with lanolin derivatives for bath oils. Its important element was to experimentally establish the amount of needed Sodium Chloride, in order to receive cosmetics with similar viscosity to those already present on the market. Due to introduction of lanolin derivatives in bath oils, the higher amount of Sodium Chloride is needed in order to receive viscosity similar to that in the market products. The important parameter, characteristic for bath oils is their ability to emulsify fatty soil. It is assumed, that the easier the preparation emulsifi es fats, and the more stable is obtained emulsion, the better is its washing, cleansing and degreasing action. Next analysed properties considered Abstracts SÖFW Journal Wydanie Polskie, including Journal of the Polish Society of Cosmetic Chemists, “Wiadomos´ci PTK” Vol. 1, No. 3, 2008* * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science.