JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 50 Oat-Based Complex Stimulates Skin Barrier Protein Synthesis and Reduces Skin Aging Frank Gafner*, Kuno Schweikert*, Giorgio Dell’Acqua** * Induchem AG, Industriestrasse 8a, 8604 Volketswil, Switzerland ** Dellacqua Consultant, Switzerland Epidermal differentiation is crucial to guarantee a physiological cornifi cation process. The cornifi ed envelope is the fi nal skin barrier which protects against external aggressions such as UV light and reduces water loss. Skin aging is associated with decreased functionality of this barrier and reduced epidermal differentiation. We present a new bioactive complex for the stimulation of protein synthesis associated with cornifi ed envelope and markers of epidermal differentiation. Composed of a hydrolyzed oat protein extract and particularly rich in glutamine and glutamic acid combined with ATP and niacinamide, 1% of this complex increases signifi cantly the synthesis of proteins such as fi laggrin, late envelope protein and small proline- rich proteins, all markers of epidermal differentiation, in a reconstituted human skin model as measured by DNA array chip analysis, reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction and immunohistochemistry. When a cream containing 3% of this bioactive complex was applied to the skin of 25 human volunteers, an increase in skin hydration of more than 60% after 14 days of application and a reduction of wrinkles and roughness by more than 50% in 4 weeks were observed compared with a placebo cream. In conclusion, the bioactive complex stimulated synthesis of proteins which are important for epidermal differentiation and skin barrier function and was helpful in fi ghting skin aging. Matrix Proteins of the Papillary Dermis - Primary Targets of Intrinsic Dermal Aging? David Boudier, Valérie Dubreuil, Laetitia Marchand, Nathalie Guichard, Brigitte Closs R&D Department, SILAB, BP 213, 19108 Brive Cedex, France The dermis is considered a highly dynamic structure that determines the biomechanical properties of the skin. It is composed of two dermal compartments separated by a vascular plexus: the papillary dermis and the reticular dermis. In the last few years, several studies have demonstrated the role of the dermal epidermal junction in the cutaneous aging process. Recently, teams specialized in the study of the dermal matrix have focused their studies on the superior dermis in close contact with the dermal epidermal junction: the papillary dermis. They defi ned the role of matrix proteins in this area. Collagens XII and XVI, non-fi brillar collagens specifi c to the papillary dermis, are responsible for skin deformability and extensibility. Oxytalan fi bers are related to elastic properties of the skin. Ubiquitous collagens such as collagens I and VI are associated with the cohesion and the resistance of the dermis. As the papillary dermis is the primary site of intrinsic dermal aging, we studied expression of these molecules in our own in vitro model of intrinsic aging of the papillary dermis. The results of this innovative approach confi rmed that their expression was reduced. Nevertheless, active molecules may exist in nature that are capable of restoring a normal expression profi le of these markers for a cosmetic anti-aging application. First Skin-Physiological Tests in Weightlessness in the ISS Space Station Hagen Tronnier, Mathilde Wiebusch, Ulrike Heinrich Dermatronnier, Institute for Experimental Dermatology, University of Witten/Herdecke, 58455 Witten, Germany A prolonged stay in weightlessness induces several medical alterations of the human body and also results in impairment of the skin. The stratum corneum, epidermal barrier as well as other skin compartments are affected in terms of their susceptibility to dryness, desquamation and pruritus. This can lead, for example, to wound healing disorders. Skin physiological tests were performed on the skin of an astronaut during the ASTROLAB-Mission within the Skin Care program initiated by the ESA. The skin was analyzed before, partly during and after the mission. In addition, the tests were repeated after one year. During the mission a control skin area was treated with a skincare product. The results showed corneal disturbance caused by environmental conditions, suboptimal skin cleansing and skin care. The observed effects were minimized by application of a skincare product. Measurements of the epidermis showed an accelerated rate of epidermal keratinization skin elasticity was reduced distinctly and the sonographic examination showed a disaggregation of the cutis with hypoechoic areas. Additional measurements performed a year after the mission indicate that the verifi ed alterations, which in a broader sense seem similar to skin aging and appear as a time lapse process in weightlessness, are reversible. Further testing of the preventive effi cacy of anti-aging products from a cosmetic point of view would appear to be an appropriate objective for prospective long-term space missions. Paper presented as a keynote lecture at the Forum Cosmeticum 2008, Vienna, Austria

J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 51–54 (January/February 2009) 51 Review Article A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part I: Cellular and molecular perspectives of skin ageing T. M. Callaghan1 and K.-P. Wilhelm proDERM Institute for Applied Dermatological Research, Kiebitzweg 2, 22869 Schenefeld/Hamburg, Germany K.-P. Wilhelm, proDERM Institute for Applied Dermatological Research, Kiebitzweg 2, 22869 Schenefeld/ Hamburg, Germany. Tel.: +49 40 839 358 11/17 fax: +49 40 839 358 39 e-mail: sleuschner@proderm.de 1 Present address: DermPharCos, Witts Park 16, 22587 Hamburg, Germany. The ageing process is noticeable within all organs of the body and manifests itself visibly in the skin. Skin ageing is infl uenced by several factors including genetics, environmental exposure, hormonal changes and metabolic processes. Together these factors lead to cumulative alterations of skin structure, function and appearance. The functioning of the central nervous, immune, endocrine and cardiovascular systems, as well as the skin is also impaired with age. Chronologically, aged skin is thin, relatively fl attened, dry and unblemished, with some loss of elasticity and age-related loss of architectural regularity. General atrophy of the extracellular matrix is refl ected by a decrease in the number of fi broblasts. Reduced levels of collagen and elastin, with impaired organization are primarily because of decreased protein synthesis affecting types I and III collagen in the dermis, with an increased breakdown of extracellular matrix proteins. Oxidative stress is considered of primary importance in driving the ageing process. The original free radical theory of ageing purported that the molecular basis of ageing was derived from a lifetime accumulation of oxidative damage to cells resulting from excess reactive oxygen species (ROS) produced as a consequence of aerobic metabolism. Although the skin possesses extremely effi cient antioxidant activities, during ageing, ROS levels rise and antioxidant activities decline. The ROS are necessary in multiple MAP kinase pathways and the induction of AP-1, in turn, up-regulates expression of matrix- metalloproteinases providing a plausible mechanism for the increased collagen degradation in aged human skin. Review Article A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part 2: Clinical perspectives and clinical methods in the evaluation of ageing skin T. M. Callaghan1 and K.-P. Wilhelm proDERM Institute for Applied Dermatological Research, Kiebitzweg 2, 22869 Schenefeld/Hamburg, Germany K.-P. Wilhelm, proDERM Institute for Applied Dematological Research, Kiebitzweg 2, 22869 Schenefeld/ Hamburg, Germany. Tel.: +49 40 839 358 11/+49 40 839 358 17 fax: +49 40 839 358 39 e-mail: sleuschner@ proderm.de Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 30, No. 5, 2008* * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science.