J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 51–54 (January/February 2009) 51 Review Article A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part I: Cellular and molecular perspectives of skin ageing T. M. Callaghan1 and K.-P. Wilhelm proDERM Institute for Applied Dermatological Research, Kiebitzweg 2, 22869 Schenefeld/Hamburg, Germany K.-P. Wilhelm, proDERM Institute for Applied Dermatological Research, Kiebitzweg 2, 22869 Schenefeld/ Hamburg, Germany. Tel.: +49 40 839 358 11/17 fax: +49 40 839 358 39 e-mail: sleuschner@proderm.de 1 Present address: DermPharCos, Witts Park 16, 22587 Hamburg, Germany. The ageing process is noticeable within all organs of the body and manifests itself visibly in the skin. Skin ageing is infl uenced by several factors including genetics, environmental exposure, hormonal changes and metabolic processes. Together these factors lead to cumulative alterations of skin structure, function and appearance. The functioning of the central nervous, immune, endocrine and cardiovascular systems, as well as the skin is also impaired with age. Chronologically, aged skin is thin, relatively fl attened, dry and unblemished, with some loss of elasticity and age-related loss of architectural regularity. General atrophy of the extracellular matrix is refl ected by a decrease in the number of fi broblasts. Reduced levels of collagen and elastin, with impaired organization are primarily because of decreased protein synthesis affecting types I and III collagen in the dermis, with an increased breakdown of extracellular matrix proteins. Oxidative stress is considered of primary importance in driving the ageing process. The original free radical theory of ageing purported that the molecular basis of ageing was derived from a lifetime accumulation of oxidative damage to cells resulting from excess reactive oxygen species (ROS) produced as a consequence of aerobic metabolism. Although the skin possesses extremely effi cient antioxidant activities, during ageing, ROS levels rise and antioxidant activities decline. The ROS are necessary in multiple MAP kinase pathways and the induction of AP-1, in turn, up-regulates expression of matrix- metalloproteinases providing a plausible mechanism for the increased collagen degradation in aged human skin. Review Article A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part 2: Clinical perspectives and clinical methods in the evaluation of ageing skin T. M. Callaghan1 and K.-P. Wilhelm proDERM Institute for Applied Dermatological Research, Kiebitzweg 2, 22869 Schenefeld/Hamburg, Germany K.-P. Wilhelm, proDERM Institute for Applied Dematological Research, Kiebitzweg 2, 22869 Schenefeld/ Hamburg, Germany. Tel.: +49 40 839 358 11/+49 40 839 358 17 fax: +49 40 839 358 39 e-mail: sleuschner@ proderm.de Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 30, No. 5, 2008* * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science.

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 52 1 Authors present address: DermPharCos, Witts Park 16, 22587 Hamburg, Germany. With the advancement of skin research, today’s consumer has increased access to technological information about ageing skin and hair care products. As a result, there is a rapidly increasing demand for proof of effi cacy of these products. Recognizing these demands has led to the development and validation of many clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin and the effects of anti-ageing treatments. Many of the current testing methods used to research and evaluate anti-ageing product claim to employ sophisticated instruments alongside more traditional clinical methods. Intelligent use of combined clinical methods has enabled the development of technologically advanced consumer products providing enhanced effi cacy and performance. Of non-invasive methods for the assessment and quantifi cation of ageing skin, there is a plethora of tools available to the clinical researcher as defi ned by key clinically observed ageing parameters: skin roughness and surface texture fi ne lines and wrinkles skin pigmentation skin colour, fi rmness and elasticity hair loss and proliferative lesions. Furthermore, many clinical procedures for the evaluation of ageing skin treatments are combined with invasive procedures, which enable added-value to claims (such as identifi cation and alteration of biochemical markers), particularly in those cases where perception of product effect needs additional support. As discussed herein, clinical methods used in the assessment of skin ageing are many and require a disciplined approach to their use in such investigations. The perception threshold measurement can be a useful tool for evaluation of sensitive skin S.-J. Kim*, S.-U. Lim*, Y.-H. Won*, S.-S. An_, E.-Y. Lee_, S.-J. Moon_ and J.Kim_ *Department of Dermatology, Chonnam University Medical School, Hack-Dong 8, Gwangju 501-757, Korea, _Skin Research Institute, Amore Pacifi c Corporation R&D Center, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do 446-729, Korea and _Division of Dermatology, David-Geffen School of Medicine UCLA, 10833 Le Conte Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90095, USA Seong-Jin Kim, Department of Dermatology, Chonnam University Medical School, Hack-Dong 8, Gwangju 501- 757, Korea. Tel.: +82-62-220-6683 fax: +82-62-222- 4058 e-mail: seongkim@chonnam.ac.kr Sensitive skin is characterized by subjective symptoms that are hard to quantify. However, a neurobiological approach could improve our understanding of the nature of skin sensitivity. In this study, we measured the sensory perception of well-controlled electric currents on the skin that stimulated sensory nerve fi bres such as the myelinated A fi bre, A delta fi bre and unmyelinated c-fi bre. The sensory perception thresholds were obtained quantitatively from subjects with sensitive-prone skin and controls. Application of 0.075% capsaicin, known to stimulate the nociceptor c-fi bre, was topically applied then the sensory perception thresholds were measured to determine whether the exposure to nociceptive stimulation could affect the subsequent sensory perception. The results showed that the perception thresholds of skin sensitive-prone subjects were low for the c-fi bre measurements at 5 Hz electric current stimulation. Furthermore, a wide variation in sensory perception was noted in the skin sensitive-prone subjects after topical application of capsaicin. In conclusion, the abnormal sensory perception in individuals with sensitive skin appears to be related to neurological instability, where c-fi bre nociception plays a role. Thus, quantitative sensory perception threshold measurement was found to be a useful method for the identifi cation of skin sensitive-prone subjects. Cocoa polyphenols and their infl uence on parameters involved in ex vivo skin restructuring P. Gasser*, E. Lati*, L. Peno-Mazzarino*, D. Bouzoud*, L. Allegaert_and H. Bernaert_ *Laboratoire BIO-EC, 91165 Longjumeau, France and _Barry Callebaut, Aalstersestraat 122, 9280 Lebbeke, Belgium Laurent Peno-Mazzarino, Laboratoire BIO-EC, 1, Chemin de Saulxier, 91165 Longjumeau, France. Tel.: +33 169 41 42 21 fax: +33 169 41 61 65 e-mail: l.peno-mazzarino@ bio-ec.fr Polyphenols in general are compounds that are known to promote health and have a preventive effect against various chronic diseases. The infl uence of cocoa polyphenols on skin, however, has scarcely been studied from a histological point of view. The aim of this study is to assess the infl uence of cocoa polyphenols on several indicators of skin elasticity and skin tonus, namely, glycosaminoglycans and collagen I, III and IV. This was carried out by using a model of ex vivo human skin explants maintained in survival, on which a cocoa polyphenols extract was applied. After processing by standard histological techniques (fi xation, paraffi n embedding, sectioning, staining, immunostaining and microscopical observation), the infl uence of cocoa polyphenols on the evaluated parameters was quantifi ed by image