MOLECULAR MODELING OF HUMAN HAIR 475 molecules bound to a UHSP cause 18-MEA to straighten out to approach its full length on a protein backbone that we have calculated at more than 2.5 nm, in reasonable agree- ment with TEM measurements of the upper beta layer of human hair by Swift and Holmes (20) of 2.5 nm and by Swift (14) of 3 nm. NEXT STEPS IN MOLECULAR MODELING OF HUMAN HAIR Our next steps involve constructing a molecular model of the virgin keratin fi ber surface to build on this molecular model by adding free lipids to the existing model to determine if free lipids can cause 18-MEA to stretch out to its full length and approach the length found for the upper beta layer of keratin fi bers. We hope at some time to construct models to simulate the lower layer(s) of the epicuticle by adding a second layer of proteins to provide an overall thickness of the epicuticle layer of approximately 13 nm, as reported by Swift and Smith (8). This will require new software to allow us to increase the number of atoms so that we can test the inclusion of KAP-5 and KAP-10 proteins (10,11) includ- ing disulfi de and/or isopeptide cross-links in either one or both, or between protein lay- ers. We also intend to develop different damaged hair models, working from our current virgin keratin fi ber surface molecular model. ACKNOWLEDGMENT The authors thank the Polymer Chemistry Division of the National Chemical Laboratory, Pune 411 008, India, where the modeling part of this project was carried out. GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED FOR MOLECULAR MODELING IN THIS PAPER Dreiding II force fi eld: A versatile force fi eld that contains the parameters and mathematical functions for describing the interatomic potential energy of interaction between atoms that are either bonded to each other or non-bonded (dispersion, van der Waals, electrostatic, and hydrogen bonding terms). Dreiding II force fi eld is useful for predicting structures and dynamics of organic, biological, and main-group inorganic molecules. Details are given in the following reference: S. L. Mayo, B. D. Olafson, and W. A. Goddard III, Dreiding: A generic force fi eld for molecular simulations, J. Phys. Chem., 94, 8897–8909 (1990). Energy minimization procedure: A mathematical procedure for fi nding minimum values of the interatomic thermodynamic potential energy function that is continuous in spatial dimensions, specifi cally using gradient-based (derivative) methods. Examples are the Newton-Raphson methods and their variants such as conjugate gradient, Fletcher- Powell, etc. The x,y,z coordinates of atoms taking part in this process is obtained from this procedure. Molecular dynamics simulations (MD): A theoretical method to track the motion of atoms and molecules in space and time coordinates, by numerical integration of the equations of motion. MD can be used to calculate equilibrium thermodynamic properties.
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 476 NVT ensemble: A thermodynamic ensemble for describing the chemical system with a fi xed number of moles, volume, and temperature. Under these conditions, an accurate specifi cation of the density is required to be able to predict molecular structure and ther- modynamic properties. Periodic cell: A simulation “box” having x,y,z dimensions containing the atoms and/or molecules representative of the chemical system, and which replicates itself in the three spatial dimensions by periodic continuation conditions, so as to represent the large-scale bulk system without posing any material discontinuities. Protein data bank (PDB): A large database containing information on coordinates for at- oms in crystal structures of protein molecules (such as beta sheets), for various known proteins. Simulation box cell: Same as “periodic cell” above. van der Waals gaps: Vacant spaces between atoms. Overlaps between atomic radii are permitted to the extent atoms are approachable with respect to each other, as defi ned by the minimum energy conditions of the van der Waals equation for interatomic potential. REFERENCES (1) A. Negri, A. Rankin, W. G. Nelson, and D. E. Rivett, A transmission electron microscope study of covalently bound fatty acids in the cell membranes of wool fi bers, Textile Res. J., 66, 491–495 (1996). (2) R. J. Ward et al., Surface analysis by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and static secondary ion mass spectrometry, Textile Res. J., 63, 362–368 (1993). (3) D. J. Peet, R. E. H. Wettenhall, and D. E. Rivett, The chemistry of the cuticle surface of keratin fi bers, Textile Res. J., 64, 58–59 (1994). (4) H. Zahn, H. Messinger, and H. Hoecker, Covalently linked fatty acids at the surface of wool: Part of the “cuticle cell envelope,” Textile Res. J., 64, 554–555 (1994). (5) D. J. Evans, J. D. Leeder, J. A. Rippon, and D. E. Rivett, Separation and analysis of the surface lipids of wool fi ber, Proc. 7th Int. Wool Textile Res. Conf., Tokyo, I, 135–142 (1985). (6) C. F. Allen, S. A. Dobrowski, P. T. Speakman, and E. V. Truter, Evidence for lipids and fi lamentous proteins in Allworden membrane, Proc. 7th Int. Wool Textile Res. Conf., Tokyo, I, 143–151 (1985). (7) L. N. Jones and D. E. Rivett, Role of 18-methyleicosanoic acid in the structure and formation of mam- malian hair fi bers, Micron, 28, 469 (1997). (8) J. A. Swift and S. Smith, Microscopical investigations on the epicuticle of mammalian keratin fi bers, J. Microscopy, 204, 203–211 (2001). (9) S. Yahagi et al., Identifi cation of two novel clusters of ultra high sulfur keratin associated protein genes on chromosome 11, Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun., 318(3), 655–665 (2004). (10) S. D. Bringans et al., Characterization of the exocuticle a-layer proteins of wool, Exp. Dermatol., 16, 951–960 (2007). (11) G. Rogers and K. Koike, Laser capture microscopy in a study of expression of structural proteins in the cuticle cells of human hair, Exp. Dermatol., 18, 541–547 (2009). (12) C. Robbins, in Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, 4th ed. (Springer-Verlag, New York, 2002), p. 419. (13) P. J. McKinnon, B. C. Powell, and G. E. Rogers, Structure and expression of genes for a class of cysteine- rich proteins of the cuticle layers of differentiating wool and hair follicles, J. Cell Biol., 111, 2587–2600 (1990). (14) J. A. Swift, “Morphology and Histochemistry of Human Hair,” in Formation and Structure of Human Hair, P. Jollès, H. Zahn, and H. Höcker, Eds. (Birkhauser Verlag, Basel, Boston, Berlin, 1997), p. 167. (15) A. Negri, H. Cornell, and D. Rivett, A model for the surface of keratin fi bers, Textile Res. J., 63, 109– 115 (1993).
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