SUBJECT INDEX 503 Palmitoyl isoleucine in anti-aging, 415 Panthenyl triacetate in anti-aging, 178 and skin aging, 329 Particle size method, 58 Pearl powder in anti-aging, 133 as moisturizer, 133 in tyrosinase inhibition, 133 Peptides review article, 165 Perception of hair smoothness, 161 Phosphate esters in hair straighteners, 394 Photoaging formulation, 162 Photodermatology optoacoustics, 169 Phthalates cosmetic survey and analysis of, 457 Physics optics, 85 Phytrantriol emulsions formulation, 162 Pigmentation and kojic acid, 265 Pigments color mechanism of, 85 formulation of, 405 in surface treatments, 407 Platycarya strobilacea extract anti-aging effects of, 211 anti-wrinkling effects of, 211 Polyglyceryl esters waxes, 388 Polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene dimethyl ether in moisturization, 39 Polypodium leucotomos and skin aging, 419 Porcine skin solar radiation effects on, 51 Pores catalase activity in, 480 Powder cosmetics calcium silicate, 325 Preservatives alternatives, 107 benzoic acid, 265 benzylic alcohol, 265 sorbic acid, 265 testing of, 265 Proline in anti-aging, 178 Quercus infectoria in free-radical scavenging, 166 in tyrosinase inhibition, 166 Raman confocal spectroscopy in stratum corneum, 181 Reconstucted human epidermis solar radiation effects on, 51 Regulatory issues colors - FDA, 199 cosmetic/drug claims, 411 EU cosmetic regulations, 380 Relipidation in hair, 1 Review articles glycolipids, 49 hibiscus abelmoschus seed extract, 263 in vitro SPF assessment, 263 LEKTI-1, 49 lipopeptides, 329 lympho-epithelial-kazal-type 1 inhibitor, 49 peptides, 165 skin aging, 165 Rheum palmatum in free-radical scavenging, 166 in tyrosinase inhibition, 166 Rice washings in hair treatment, 326 Risk assessment and chemicals, 259 Salivary effects fragrance, 167 Sarsasapogenin in adipocyte regulation, 176 Sensitive skin amd collagen tripeptide F, 50 and gluco-oligosaccharide, 50 Shampoo cationic/anionic complex Skin caffeine effects on, 169 cyclopeptide effects on, 417 and deoxyribonucleoside 5’-monophosphate, 164 exfoliation of, 247 moisturization of, 13, 23, 303 rough, 166 senescence evaluation of, 268 sensitive atopic, 50 stratum corneum chemistry, 181 wrinkles, 70 Skin aging and cocoyl alanine, 329 and ethyl linoleate, 329 and lipoamino acids, 329 and palmitoyl glycine, 329

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 504 and panthenyl triacetate, 329 and Polypodium leucotomos, 419 review article, 165 and UVB radiation, 484 Skin barrier function and skin lipids, 185 sodium lauryl sulfate effects on, 49 Skin care acne, 378 Skin cell detoxifi cation autophagic system, 483 Skin cosmetics Hibiscus abelmoschus seed extract, 263 Skin lighteners dimethylmethoxy chromanyl palmitate, 169 Skin lipids and electron paramagnetic resonance, 49 in facial appearance, 377 in skin barrier function, 185 Skin matrix proteins UV-light effects on, 413 Skin penetration by sunscreens, 50, 56 Skin smoothness perception of, 161 Snake venon and skin wrinkles, 70 Soap modeling method, 64 Sodium lauryl sulfate skin barrier effects on, 49 Solar radiation effects on animal alternative testing, 51 on porcine skin, 51 on reconstructed human epidermis, 51 Sorbic acid preservative effects of, 265 SPF in vitro testing, 263 SPF enhancement by avobenzone, 54, 56 by ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, 54 by octinoxate, 54, 56 Stearyl alcohol analysis, 331 Stem cells epidermal, 183 Stratum corneum amino acids in, 303 and climate effects, 181 lipid extraction from, 13 and Raman confocal spectroscopy, 181 sodium lauryl sulfate effects on, 49 Sunscreens amiloxate in 330 analysis, 330 avobenzone in, 50, 54, 166, 330 bemotrizinol in, 50, 330 bisoctrizole in, 50, 330 diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate in, 50, 330 diethylhexyl butamido triazole in, 330 functions of, 170 ensulizole in, 330 ethylhexyl methoxycrylene in, 54 ethylhexyl triazone in, 330 microencapsulation in, 56 octinoxate in, 50, 54, 166, 330 octisalate in , 330 octocrylene in, 330 oxybenzone in, 166, 330 padimate O in , 50 skin penetration by, 50, 56 stability of, 330 titanium dioxide in , 50 zinc oxide in, 50, 58 Surfactants and hair dye fading, 203 Sustainability of biocatalytic esterifi cation, 390 overview of, 383, 386 Sweet potato extract UV absorption by, 333 Synthetic wax properties of, 189 Tactile sensation hair, 378 Tanning agents dihydroxyacetone, 73, 172 melatime, 172 Terminalia chebula and free-radical scavenging, 166 in tyrosinase inhibition, 166 Thermal imaging in hair combing, 201 Titanium dioxide skin penetration by, 50 in sunscreen, 50 Tocopherol/tocopheryl acetate analysis, 353 Tocopheryl acetate analysis, 265 Toxicity of cosmetics, 171 Triglyceride reduction by berberine, 260 by Coptis japonica root extract, 260 Tyrosinase inhibition by botanicals, 166 by 8-hydroxynaringenin, 205 by pearl powder, 133