J. Cosmet. Sci., 70, 63–76 (March/April 2019) 63 Antioxidant, UV Protection, and Antiphotoaging Properties of Anthocyanin-Pigmented Lipstick Formulations ALEXANDRA WESTFALL, GREGORY T. SIGURDSON, and M. MÓNICA GIUSTI, Department of Food Science and Technology, The Ohio State University, Columbus, OH (A.W., G.T.S., M.M.G.) Accepted for publication January 29, 2019. Synopsis Consumer demand for foods and cosmetics containing naturally derived ingredients has been increasing. Naturally derived anthocyanins (ACNs), from fruits and vegetables, were previously demonstrated to provide a wide range of hues as lipstick colorants with high stability. Therefore, the objective of this study was to evaluate the use of ACNs as bioactive pigments in lipstick formulations. Commercially available sources of nonacylated and acylated derivatives of the six major ACN aglycones were incorporated into a commercial lipstick base. The ACN-containing lipsticks were evaluated for their ability to act as ultraviolet (UV) absorbers [a source of sun protection factor (SPF)], free radical scavengers against 2,2-diphenyl-1- picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and preventers of melanin formation through tyrosinase inhibition. All formulas showed increased UV absorption over the lipstick base, and acylated ACNs contributed to the highest in vitro SPF (UVB) values (15.8) in formulations. All formulas exhibited high inhibition of DPPH free radicals and inhibition of melanin production by tyrosinase at microgram per milligram concentrations similar to or less than kojic acid (2.41 ± 0.06 μg/mg). This is physiologically relevant because lipstick use is on average 24 mg/day. This study suggests the potential for ACNs to be used as biologically active ingredients in lipstick formulations by acting as antioxidants and UV-protection and antiaging compounds. INTRODUCTION This is the second article in a series of articles aimed at describing the use of anthocyanins (ACNs) in lipsticks. Anthocyanins are water-soluble fl avonoids responsible for many of the red, purple, and blue colors found in plants. In nature, they occur as glycosylated derivatives of six pri- mary aglycones: cyanidin, delphinidin, petunidin, peonidin, pelargonidin, and malvidin (1). The variations in chemical structures of these anthocyanidins (or aglycones) occur at Address all correspondence to M. Mónica Giusti at giusti.6@osu.edu. Author Contributions: The manuscript was written through contributions of all authors. All authors have given approval to the fi nal version of the manuscript. Confl ict of Interest: This research did not receive any specifi c grant from funding agencies in the public, commercial, or not-for-profi t sectors.

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 64 the 3′ and 5′ positions of the B-ring. Acylation of the sugar moiety with various aromatic and aliphatic acids may also occur (2). The biological activity of ACNs is largely depen- dent on these variations in their chemical structures. The intense and attractive colors produced by ACNs have prompted interest in their uses as colorants in the food industry (3). Their potential to act as powerful antioxidants and for use in disease prevention has also been gaining increased attention (4). They have long been considered as strong antioxidants, with the ability to scavenge free radicals and ter- minate chain reactions demonstrated in many in vitro assays (5,6). Their protective effects against oxidative stress–induced damage and regulation of redox signaling pathways have also been demonstrated (7–9). Unabsorbed ACNs have also been shown to potentially act as chemopreventive agents topically in the gastrointestinal tract by preventing oxidative damage to the mucosal lin- ing (10). This topical activity may also translate to similar benefi ts when applied to the skin in an appropriate vesicle, such that they are able to react with damaging reactive oxygen species (11). Recent investigations into ACNs’ potential to prevent oxidative damage to the skin by ultraviolet (UV)-induced erythema, skin cancer, and photoaging have also demonstrated a protective effect in vitro and in vivo (12–15). Photoaging is de- fi ned as premature aging of the skin caused by repeated exposure to UV radiation, with signs including general skin deterioration and dark spots or abnormal skin pigmentation (16). Anthocyanins have shown a potential to trigger a regenerative effect on the skin (17). Moreover, they have been shown to improve psoriatic lesions in vitro and alleviate atopic dermatitis in vivo (18,19). Few studies have investigated the protective effects of ACNs when incorporated into matrices for topical delivery. However, two recent studies positively demonstrated the biological activity of ACNs when concentrated onto protein-rich matrices (20) and also when incorporated into ultradeformable liposomes (11). The results of these studies were promising however, the technology used does not easily translate into practical or commonly used delivery systems for bioactive ingredients, such as incorporation into pre-existing cosmetic formulas. In cosmetic formulations, the chemical and potential bioactive properties of ACNs could translate into antiphotoaging properties. When incorporated into some cosmetic formulations, the color imparted by these pig- ments and their stability must also be considered. We recently reported ACNs to be suc- cessful colorants of lipstick formulations with stability comparable with synthetic pigments, determined to exceed 2 years based on the accelerated testing conditions (21). Therefore, the aim of this study was to investigate the potential biological activity of ACNs when incorporated into lipstick formulations as a source of color and as an active ingredient, with ACNs selected based on our previous work. MATERIALS AND METHODS MATERIALS Elderberry, purple carrot, purple sweet potato, and red radish dried extracts were pro- vided by DD Williamson & Co., Inc. (Louisville, KY), and the purple corn and red grape skin dried extracts were provided by Artemis International (Fort Wayne, IN). The base of the lipstick formulations was purchased from MakingCosmetics, Inc. (Snoqualmie, WA)