PROPERTIES OF ANTHOCYANIN-PIGMENTED LIPSTICK FORMULATIONS 69 the UVB range than the UVA range for all formulas tested. All formulas showed statisti- cally signifi cant differences when compared with the base. The formula that showed the highest UV absorbance was the red radish formula the purple sweet potato formula also showed high absorbance across the UV range. Both of these sources contained aromati- cally acylated ACNs, which is likely related to their increased UV absorbance. Red rad- ish, purple sweet potato, and elderberry showed absorbance values at or above 0.5 for all wavelengths in the UVB (290–320 nm) range (Figure 3). Elderberry ACNs are not typi- cally acylated, and the increased absorbance could be related to the high overall phenolic content of this material (Figure 2). The calculated in vitro UVB SPF values of the ethanolic extracts of the formulas are shown in Table I. Values followed the same pattern as that of the absorbance values in Figure 3 SPF values were highest for red radish, purple sweet potato, and elderberry. Lowest SPF values were calculated for red grape skin and purple carrot however, all formulations showed an increase in absorbance over that of the lipstick base alone. The increased UV Figu re 1. Characterization and quantitation (microgram ACN/milligram lipstick as cyanidin-3-glucoside equivalents) of ACNs in lipstick formulations.

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 70 absorption by red radish and purple sweet potato may be due to the addition of acylation by cinnamic acids, which are known to absorb in the UV range (34). These results may suggest a future role for these extracts as photoprotective ingredients in topical formulas. DPPH FREE RADICAL SCAVENGING ABILITY The inhibitory percentages of each formula extract against DPPH at three concentrations (40, 60, and 100 μg/mL) were determined to calculate the IC50 (μg/mg), or the concentra- tion necessary to inhibit 50% of the DPPH, for each formulation. Inhibitory ability fol- lowed the same pattern at all three concentrations, showing dose-dependent effects. Generally, increasing concentration of the lipstick formulation (increasing amounts of ACNs and total phenolics) resulted in greater inhibition of DPPH, consistent with previ- ous reports investigating ACNs as inhibitors of DPPH (35,36). The purple corn and el- derberry formulas showed the highest inhibition of DPPH at all three concentrations, whereas the grape skin and purple carrot formulas showed the lowest inhibition of DPPH at all three concentrations. All formula inhibitory values were signifi cantly different from Figu re 2. Total phenolic content of ACN–lipstick formulations in methanol, expressed as milligram GAE/ milligram lipstick (n = 5 ± SD).