SUNSCREENS FOR OPTIMAL PROTECTION EFFICACY 205 antimelanin synthesis activation to limit PIH and a sunscreen SPF30/UVAPF25 (ratio 1.2) developed for oily skin were prescribed for 90 d during summer. Overall, 45% experienced decreases in acne severity, 45% experienced no change and 10% an increase. CONCLUSIONS The di scovery in t he last 20 years that UVA radiation is probably as important as UVB in the induction of skin damage prompted the development of effi cient UVA absorbers and more effi cient sunscreens with a good balance between UVB/UVA protection and textures adapted to improve observance. Nevertheless, sun protection strategies and formulations only offer the expected protec- tion if applied as directed. Consumers described cosmetic elegance—pleasant texture and easy-to-use formulation, features absent from many high-level UVA/UVB products—as the most important feature of sun protection [35], and it should, therefore, be considered in the context of compliance, particularly for those who must use sun protection daily. Adaptive formulations tailored to different skin types (oily or dry skin), texture prefer- ences and needs (cream or ultra-light fl uid), and climatic conditions are necessary. Formulators play a key role in the observance of application of sunscreens and daily pho- toprotective skincare products, delaying photoaging and protecting patients with photo- dermatoses or skin disorders. REFERENCES (1) C. F. Garland , F. C. Garland, and E. C. Gorham, Epidemiologic evidence for different roles of ultraviolet A and B radiation in melanoma mortality rates, Ann. Epidemiol., 133, 95–404 (2003). (2) N. S. Agar, G . M. Halliday, R. S. Barnetson, H. N. Ananthaswamy, M. Wheeler, and A. M. Jones, The basal layer in human squamous tumors harbors more UVA than UVB fi ngerprint mutations: a role for UVA in human skin carcinogenesis, Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. U.S.A., 101, 4954–4959 (2004). (3) F. Urbach, “Th e negative effect of solar radiation: a clinical overview”, in Sun Protection in Man, ESP Comprehensive Series in Photosciences, P. U. Giacomoni. Ed. (Elsevier Sciences, Amsterdam, The Netherland, 2001), Vol. 3, pp. 41–67. (4) Commission In t ernationale de l’Eclairage Spectral Irradiance, Technical Report Pub N°CIE (1989), Vol. 5. (5) R. M. Lavker and K. Kaidbey, The spectra l dependence for UVA-induced cumulative damage in human skin, J. Invest. Dermatol., 108, 17–21 (1997). (6) S. Seité, D. Moyal, S. Richard, J. de R i gal, J.-L. Lévêque, C. Hourseau, and A. Fourtanier, Effects of repeated suberythemal doses of UVA in human skin, Eur. J. Dermatol., 7, 204–209 (1997). (7) S. Seité, D. Moyal, S. Richard, J. de Rigal J . L. Lévêque, C. Hourseau, and A. Fourtanier, Mexoryl SX: a broadspectrum absorption UVA fi lter protects human skin from the effects of repeated suberythemal doses of UVA, J. Photochem. Photobiol. B, Biol., 44, 69–76 (1998). (8) D. Moyal and A. Fourtanier, Acute and chronic effects of UV on skin, in Photoaging, D. S. Rigel, R. A. Weiss, H. W. Lim, and J. S. Dover. Eds. (Marcel Dekker, Inc., New York, 2004), pp. 15–32. (9) C. Marionnet, C. Pierrard, C. Golebiewski, and F. Berner d , Diversity of biological effects induced by longwave UVA rays (UVA1) in reconstructed skin, PLoS One, 9(8), e105263 (2014). (10) D. Moyal and A. Fourtanier, Effects of UVA radiation o n an established immune response in humans and sunscreen effi cacy, Exp. Dermatol., 11(1), 28–32. (2002). (11) J. Kuchel, R. Barnetson, and G. Halliday, Ultra violet A augments solar-simulated ultraviolet radiation- induced local suppression of recall responses in humans. J. Invest. Dermatol., 118, 1032–1037 (2002). (12) D. Moyal and O. Binet, Polymorphous light eruption (PLE ) : its reproduction and prevention by sun- screens, in Sunscreens Development and Evaluation and Regulatory Aspects, 2nd Ed., N. J. Lowe, N. Shaat, and M. Pathak. Eds. (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1997), pp. 611–617.

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 206 (13) A. Chardon and D. Moyal, Immediate and delayed pigmenta r y responses to solar UVA radiation (320– 400 nm), in Mechanisms of Suntanning, J. P. Ortonne and R. Ballotti, Eds. (Martin Dunitz Ltd, London, 2002), pp. 315–325. (14) Y. Miyamura, S. G. Coelho, K. Schlenz, J. Batzer, C. Sm u da, W. Choi, M. Brenner, T. Passeron, G. Zhang, L. Kolbe, R. Wolber, and V. J. Hearing, The deceptive nature of UVA tanning versus the mod- est protective effects of UVB tanning on human skin. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res., 24(1), 136–147 (2011). (15) European Commission Recommendation on the effi c acy of su nscreen products and the claims made re- lating thereto. OJL 265/39. September 26, 2006. (16) ISO 24442: Cosmetics – Sun Protection Test Methods – In Vivo Determination of Sunscreen UVA Protection (ISO, Geneva, Switzerland, 2011). (17) ISO 24443: Cosmetics – Sun Protection Test Methods- Dete rmination of Sunscreen UVA Photoprotec- tion In Vitro (ISO, Geneva, Switzerland, 2012). (18) F. L’Alloret, D. Candau, S. Seité, M.-J. Pygmalio n, L. R uiz, M. Josso, H. Meaudre, L. Gauchet, A.-M. Pena, and A. Colonna, New combination of ultraviolet absorbers in an oily emollient increases sunscreen effi cacy and photostability, Dermatol. Ther., 2, 4 (2012). (19) L. Marrot, J. Belaidi, F. Lejeune, J. R. Meunier , D. Asse lineau, and F. Bernerd, Photostability of sun- screen products infl uences the effi ciency of protection with regard to UV-induced genotoxic or photoag- ing-related endpoints, Br. J. Dermatol., 151, 1234–1244 (2004). (20) N. Tarras-Wahlberg, G. Stenhagen, O. Larkö, A.-M . Wennber g, and O. Wennerström, Changes in ul- traviolet absorption of sunscreens after ultraviolet irradiation, J. Invest. Dermatol., 113, 547–553 (1999). (21) D. Dondi, A. Albini, and N. Serpone, Interactions between di fferent s olar UVB/UVA fi lters contained in commercial suncreams and consequent loss of UV protection, Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 5, 835–843 (2006). (22) E. Chatelain and B. Gabard, Photostabilization of butyl metho xydibenz oylmethane (avobenzone) and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate by bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), a new UV broadband fi lter, Photochem. Photobiol., 74(3), 401–406 (2001). (23) L. R. Gaspar and P. M. Maia Campos, Evaluation of the photost ability of different UV fi lter combina- tions in a sunscreen, Int. J. Pharm., 307(2), 123–128 (2006). (24) C. A. Bonda and D. Lott, Sunscreen Photostability: Principles and Pr a ctice of Photoprotection (Springer International Publishing, Switzerland, 2016), pp. 247–273. (25) A. Fourtanier, F. Bernerd, C. Bouillon, L. Marrot, D. Moyal, and S. S eité, Protection of skin biological targets by different types of sunscreens, Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed., 22, 22–32 (2006). (26) D. Moyal and A. Fourtanier, Broadspectrum sunscreens provide better prote c tion from the suppression of the elicitation phase of delayed-type hypersensitivity response in humans, J. Invest. Dermatol., 117, 1186–1192 (2001). (27) D. L. Damian, G. M. Halliday, and R. S. C. Barnetson, Broadspectrum sunsc r eens provide greater pro- tection against ultraviolet radiation-induced suppression of contact hypersensitivity to a recall antigen in humans, J. Invest. Dermatol., 109, 146–151 (1997). (28) A. Fourtanier, D. Moyal, and S. Seité, Sunscreens containing the broadspe c trum UVA absorber, Mexoryl®SX, prevent the cutaneous detrimental effects of UV exposure: a review of clinical study re- sults, Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed., 24, 164–174 (2008). (29) S. Seité, H. Zucchi, D. Moyal, S. Tison, D. Compan, F. Christiaens, A. Guen i che, and A. Fourtanier, Alterations in human epidermal Langerhans cells by ultraviolet radiation: quantitative and morpho- logical study. Br. Dermatol., 148, 291–299 (2003). (30) A. Fourtanier, D. Moyal, and S. Seité, UVA fi lters in sun protection product s : regulatory and biological aspects, Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 11, 81–89 (2012). (31) F. J. Christiaens, A. Chardon, A. Fourtanier, and J. E. Frederick, Standard u l traviolet daylight for non- extreme exposure conditions, Photochem. Photobiol., 81(4), 874–878 (2005).