608 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS the user to form an emulsion. On the other hand, if the cake does not ab- sorb some water, it will stay wet for too long a time. Two types of cake eyeliners utilizing the aforementioned principle are shown in Table VI. Cake eyebrow, the next pressed powder in the group of eye products, has recently increased in popularity, gweatly replacing, for the most part, the eyebrow pencil. The primary reason for this is the ease of applica- tion and the soft, natural look of the applied powder. Eyebrow pencils tend to give a harsh, definite line. It requires an expert touch to give the "unmade-up" look in fashion today. While the technology of cake eyebrow is similar in many ways to other pressed powder technology, there are several specific functions that make it stand apart. The first aspect is the area to which it is applied. Cake eyebrow is used to fill in the eyebrow and give it a full well-tapered look. It must have excellent adherence qualities to cling to an area that has short, relatively coarse hair. It must also apply smoothly and easily to give a matte, uniform appearance. The brush used should be firm and tapered. The cake must be quite firm so that it will not dust excessively when used. In order to achieve these qualities in the end product, the formulatot must use higher quantities of the materials that give these specific properties. A relatively high percentage of metallic stearate and kaolin will help give these properties along with the use of good pressing talcs (sample 1, Table VII). Careful selection of a binder system and the proper amounts of same will also aid in the application qualities. Some useful materials are mineral oils, lanolin derivatives, vegetable oil triglycerides, and isopropyl esters. Workable cake eyebrow prototypes may be prepared from the samples shown in Table VII. Pressed cake eyeshadows are perhaps the most extensively used cos- metic make-up item today. Many women have stopped wearing lipstick and only use some form of eyeshadow. Until five years ago, most eye- shadows were in either stick or cream form. Today, cake eyeshadow is the fashion and seems to be entrenched as a standard item. Although textures and shades are constantly changing, the fashion is still cake eye- shadow. Most popular today are the pearlescent shades. Recently, eyeshadows that can be applied either dry or wet have reached the market place. These are made to combine the properties of an eyeliner and a shadow. Matte eyeshadow usually consists of a good quality pressing talc, and other materials such as kaolin, metallic stearates, chalk, magnesium car- bonate, etc. (as exemplified in Table VIII). The primary difference be- Iween these products and pressed powders are the colors used. Eye-

PRESSED POWDER TECHNOLOGY 609 Table VII Cake Eyebrows Ingredients Sample 1 Per Cent w/w Sample 2 Sample 3 Sample 4 Talc 141" q.s .... q.s. q.s. Talc WS b ... q.s ....... Kaolin 15-20 12-15 15.0 12.1 Zinc stearate 5-10 4-8 8.0 10.0 Calcium carbonate . . . 5-10 ...... Italian talc ...... 20.0 . .. Iron oxide pigments q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. Mineral oil, 70 visc. 4-6 ... 3.0 ... Trisolan* . . . 6.0 ...... Isopropyl myristate ...... 3.0 . . . Neobee M-5 a ......... 4.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 Whittaker, Clark & Daniels, New York, N.Y. C. B. Chrystal Co., New York, N.Y. Maimstrom Chem. Corp., Linden, N.J. Drcw Chemical Co., New York, N.Y. Table VIII Matte Eyeshadow Per Cent w/w Ingredients Sample I Talc 141- q.s. to 100.0 Kaolin 12-20 Zinc stearate 8-12 Pigments 10-40 Isopropyl palmitate 4.0 100.0 "Whittaker, Clark & Daniels, New York, N.Y. shadows contain chiefly ultramarine blues, violets, chrome green oxide hydrate and chrome gTeen oxide anhydrous, ochres, and other iron oxide colors to give bright pastel shades. Titanium dioxide or zinc oxides are also used for coverage and to brighten shades. Trends today are for a very creamy, smooth formula type that does not apply heavily to the eye- lid. Sheerness on application is desirable and the cake should not be dry or powdery in texture. A softer cake will help to give a creamier feeling upon application. If the correct amount of lb/in." is not used while pressing, a product having a completely different payoff and texture will