606 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Table IV Matte Blush-on Powders Per Cent w/w Ingredients Sample 1 Sample 2 Talc WS" q.s ... Talc 1410 ... q.s. Italian talc 20.0 ... Metropolitan talc #10 ... 40.0 Zinc stearate 10.0 3.0 Calcium carbonate . . . 3.0 Magnesium carbonate . . 3.0 Pigments and organic lakes q.s• q.s. Mineral oil 70 risc. 3.0 ... Isopropyl myristate ... 4.0 100.0 100.0 C. B. Chrystal Go., New York, N.Y. Whittaker, Clark & Daniels, New York, N.Y. Table V Frosted Blush-on Powders Per Cent w/w Ingredients Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Talc 141- q.s. q.s .... French talc ...... q.s. Metropohtan talc #1• ...... 10-20 Italian talc ...... 10-20 Zinc stearate 10.0 10.0 1.5 Kaolin 10.0 10.0 5.0 Calcium carbonate . . . 5.0 . . . Pigment and organic lakes q.s. q.s. q.s. Mineral oil, 70 visc. 5.0 5.0 ... Liquid cholesterol emulsifierb ...... 5.0 Titanium-coated mica c 15.0 15-30 . . . Bismuth oxychloride a ...... 10-30 5 % Aqueous hydroxyethyl cellulose* ... 10.0 ... 100.0 100.0 100.0 Whittaker, Clark & Daniels, New York, N.Y. Amerchol Products (Amerchol L-101), Edison, N.J. Maimstrom Chem. Corp. (Nimles- terol-D), Linden, N.J. Mearl Corp. (Timica Pearl), New York, N.Y. Rona Pearl Co. (MP-10), Bayonne, N.J. Mearl Corp. (Mearlite LBU), New York, N.Y. Rona Pearl Co. (NLD), Bayonne, N.J. Union Carbide Chem. Corp. (Cellusize QP-3), New York, N.Y.

PRESSED POWDER. TECHNOLOGY 607 The next basic group of pressed cake powder includes those cakes that are applied to the eye area. These are cake eyeshadow, cake eyeliner, and cake eyebrow. Cake eyeliner is the only pressed cake that is unique from all other cake products because of the method of application. Basically, all other cakes are used in the dry form. During eyeliner application, water is mixed with the powder and the creamy resultant emulsion is used to paint a line above the eyelash and sometimes below the lower lash. Normally, powder will not readily mix with water therefore, a different type of binder has to be used which will form an emulsion upon the moistening of the cake with a wet brush. The two types of binder systems that meet this requirement are a soap binder (ionic) (sample 2, Table VI) or a nonionic binder system (sample 1, Table VI). The soap binder system is chiefly triethanolamine stearate or triethanolamine oleate or a combi- nation of both. Included in this system may be glycols, lanolin and its derivatives, and other emulsifiers. The nonionic systems are usually some combinations of sorbitan ester emulsifiers and also may include other materials such as lanolin derivatives and glycols. Cake eyeliners are hard tablets and care must be used in the proper selection of fillers. Metallic stearates and calcium carbonate aid greatly in the pressing of a hard tablet. In order to pay off properly, there must be a proper balance of binder and pigment. Additional materials may be incorporated to help regulate the rate of water absorption of the cake. The cake should not absorb water too rapidly and act like a sponge, as this will not permit Table VI Cake Eyeliner Per Cent w/w Ingredients Sample 1 Sample 2 Talc WS • q.s .... French talc ... q.s. Magnesium stearate 3-10 ... Calcium carbonate 8-10 3-6 Aluminum stearate ... 3-6 Kaolin . . . 8-15 Pigments 5-30 5-30 Nonionic binder 10-12 ... Soap binder ... 12-20 100.0 100.0 a C. B. Chrystal Co., New York, N.Y.