ELECTROMETRIC ASSESSMENT OF SKIN DRYNESS 393 REFERENCES (1) G. P. Serban, S. M. Henry, V. F. Cotty, and A.D. Marcus, In vivo evaluation of skin lotions by electrical capacitance and conductance,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 32, 421-435, 1981. (2) H. Tagami, M. Ohi, K. Iwatsuki, Y. Kanamaru, M. Yamada, and B. Ichijo, Evaluation of skin surface hydration in vivo by electrical measurement,J. Invest. Dermatol., 75,500-507, 1980. (3) P. A. Isherwood, Physiology of stratum corneum, measurement of water content, Acta. Fac. Med. Univ. Brun., 16, 290-295 (1977). (4) N. Rutter and D. Hull, Reduction of skin water loss in the newborn. I. Effect of applying topical agents, Archives of Disease in Childhood, 56, 669-672, 1981. (5) A.M. Kligman, R. M. Lavker, G. L. Grove, and T.J. Studemayer, Some aspects of dry skin and its treatment, in Safety and E•cacy of Topical Drugs and Cosmetics, ed. A.M. Kliõman and J.j. Leyden (Grune and Stratton, Inc., 1982). (6) J. L. Leveque, J. C. Carson, andJ. de Rigal, Transepidermal water loss from dry and normal skin,J. Sac. Cosmet. Chem., 30, 333-343, 1979. (7) R. Edelberg, Relation of electrical properties of skin to structure and physiologic state, J. Invest. Dermatol., 69, 324-327, 1977. (8) D.C. Salter, Quantifying skin disease and healing in viva using electrical impedance measurements, in Nan-Invasive Physiological Measurements, ed. P. Rolfe (Academic Press, London, 1979). (9) S. Grimnes, Psychogalvanic reflex and changes in electrical parameters of dry skin, Med. & Bial. Eng. & Comput., 20, 734-740, 1982. (10) A.M. Kligman, Regression method for assessing the efficacy of moisturizers, Cosmet. Toilet., 93, 27-35, 1978. (11) D.J. Perry, G. E. Mount, andJ. Maliner, The effect of topically administered compounds on the skin galvanic response,J. Invest. DermatoL, 36, 7-9, 1961. (12) I. H. Blank, Factors which influence the water content of the stratum corneum,J. Invest. Dermatol., 18, 433-44O, 1952. (13) K. K. Kraning, E. Schibli, S. Momii, S. Campbell, and G. F. Odland, Water content of stratum corneum in vivo, USAMRDS Report, DADA 17-72-C2103, 1975. (14) C. Clausen, S. A. Lewis, andJ. M. Diamond, Impedance analysis of tight epithelium using a distributed resistance model, Biophys. J., 26, 291-318, 1979. (15) T. H. Cook, Profilometry of skin: A useful tool for the substantiation of cosmetic efficacy, J. Sac. Cosmet. Chem., 31,339-359, 1980. (16) R. L. Anderson, J. M. Cassidy,J. R. Hansen, and W. Yellin, The effect of in viva occlusion on human stratum corneum hydration--dehydration tn vitro, J. Invest. Dermatol., 61,375-379, 1973. (17) A. S. Zelickson, B. D. Zelickson, and B. M. Zelickson, Measurements by transmission electron microscopy of "dry" skin before and after application of a moisturizing cream, Amer. J. Dermatapa- thal., 4, 205-208, 1982. (18) M. S. Christensen, D. Yeung, and S. Nacht, Topically induced changes in the appearance and functioning of the stratum corneum, Presented at the Annual Scientific Seminar, Society of Cosmetic Chemists, San Francisco, May 1980. (19) R.J. Scheuplein andJ. H. Blank, Permeability of the skin, Physiol. Rev., 51,702-747, 1971. (20) W. P. Smith, M. S. Christensen, S. Nacht, and E. H. Gans, Effects of lipids on the permeability of human stratum corneum,J. Invest. DermatoL, 78, 7-11, 1982.

j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 34, 395-397 (November 1983) Book Review ENCYCLOPEDIA OF SHAMPOO INGREDIENTS, by Anthony L. L. Hunting. Micelie Press, Inc., Cranford, NJ, 1983. 467 pages, paper bound. Price: $75.00. The Encyclopedia of Shampoo Ingredients is a telephone directory-sized compen- dium of everything you always wanted to know about shampoo composition and then some. Although much of the book is to be recommended, it is basically flawed by an excess of "marketing" information having limited timeliness and question- able significance. The imbalance shows in the book's organization which allocates an inordinate emphasis to a survey of the ingredient listings of shampoos. This dis- play detracts from the book's focus as a technical reference. However, despite this shortcoming, Mr. Hunting has produced an authoritative, interesting book, one containing an assortment of information useful to shampoo manufacturers, formu- lators, and raw material promoters. The encyclopedia contains two main sections, the first of which consists of a survey of ingredient panels from 438 shampoos. These shampoos, representing over 80 manufacturers, were gathered from the New York tri-state area during the year beginning September 1980. Mr. Hunting categorizes the price range (inex- pensive, low-medium, medium-high, and expensive), and provides the marketing position(s) used for each shampoo's pro- motion. The difficulty here is that sham- poo marketing is dynamic, always undergoing change. By the time the book finds its way to the hands of the reader the data presented for some shampoos will have been altered. Some shampoos will have been removed from sales others, not cited, will have taken their place. This section is interesting to glance through, but the information disclosed is more suited to a trade periodical that can be updated regularly, rather than to the more permanent reference text which this book strives to be. Statistics presented from data in this section are not only vulnerable to rapid obsolescence, but lead to confusion. Mr. Hunting introduces the RIF value (Rela- tive Importance Factor) as a calculation based upon the numerical position of an ingredient on a shampoo label and the frequency that ingredient appears in the 438 shampoos surveyed. The relevance of the RIF number is questionable since (1) ingredients under 1% concentration can be randomly arranged on the label according to the discretion of the manu- facturer, and (2) ingredients of shampoos with sizeable market share are given equal weight with those ingredients of local private label brands. Hence, we find that a shampoo structural ingredient such as 395