EFFECT OF CURLING IRONS 243 OT 02T Ot - ot -- (Eq. 7) Ox 2 where T and t represents the temperature and time, respectively. The thermal diffusivity, ix, of the solid can be calculated using the following relationship: k tx- (Eq. 8) p'cp in which case the thermal conductivity (k), density (p), and specific heat capacity (cp) of the material are assumed to be constant throughout the heating process. Solution of Equation 7, with respect to the initial and final boundary conditions, provides the following relationship (34): •c T- T o 2 f 2X/• . t e-? du (Eq. 9) -- -- 0-T,-To 1 o where u is a dummy variable for the integration, T o is the initial hair temperature, T, is the surface temperature of the heat source, and T(x,t) is the temperature of hair as a function of distance (x) and time (t). For the sake of algebraic convenience, the dependent variable T(x,t) has been normalized, resulting in the single variable, 0. The results of the calculations, in the form of a plot of 0 as a function of the dimensionless distance parameter, are presented in Figure 2. We also performed calculations for a fiber arrangement in the form of a hexagonal lattice in which the composite consisted of fiber (91%) and air (9%). In comparison to the cubic arrangement, the hexagonal formation results in a smaller contribution of air, resulting in decreased thermal diffusitivity and, consequently, a slower rate of heat transfer. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The authors acknowledge useful discussions with J. Kosiek and K. Krummel. REFERENCES (1) C. Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Hair, 3rd ed. (Springer-Verlag, New York, 1994), pp. 120-152. (2) M. L. Garcia, J. A. Epps, and R. S. Yare, Normal cuticle-wear patterns in human hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 29, 155 (1976). (3) E. Hoting and M. Zimmermann, Photochemical alterations in human hair. Part III: Investigations of internal lipids,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 47, 201 (1996). (4) C. Pande and J. Jachowicz, Hair photodamage--Measurement and prevention, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 109 (1993). (5) P. Milczarek, M. Zielinski, and M. Garcia, The mechanism and stability of thermal transitions in hair keratin, Colloid Polym. Sci., 270, 1106 (1992). (6) R. Crawford, C. Robbins, and K. Chesney, A hysteresis in heat dried hair,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 32, 27 (1981). (7) L. Rebenfeld, H. Weigmann, and C. Dansizer, Temperature dependence of the mechanical properties of human hair in relation to structure, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 17, 525 (1966). (8) W. Humphries, D. Miller, and R. Wildnauer, The thermomechanical analysis of natural and chemi- cally modified human hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 23, 359 (1972).
244 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30) (31) (32) (33) (34) R. Arnaud, G. Perbet, A. DeFlandre, and G. Lang, ESR study of hair and melanin-keratin mixtures-- The effects of temperature and light, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 6, 71 (1984). M. Feughelman, A two-phase structure for keratin fibers, Textile Res. J., 29, 223 (1959). I. Watt, Properties of wool fibers heated to temperatures above 100øC, Textile Res. J., 45,728 (1975). K. Lee, Some low-angle X-ray evidence on the structural changes in thermally- and plasma-treated wool, Textile Res. J., 46, 779 (1976). R. Asquith and M. Otterburn, Self-crosslinking in keratin under the influence of dry heat, Appl. Polymer Symp., 18, 277 (1971). E. Menefee and G. Yee, Thermally-induced structural changes in wool, Textile Res. J., 35,801 (1965). I. Rusznak, L. Trezl, A. Bereck, and G. Bidlo, Influence of short thermal treatments on wool, Appl. Polymer Symp., 18, 175 (1971). H. Launer and D. Black, Gases produced from wool by light and heat, Appl. Polymer Symp., 18, 347 (1971). D. Goddinger, K. Schaefer, and H. Hoecker, Photooxidation of aromatic amino acids in keratin fibers by UV light, DWI Rep., 113, 467 (1994). R. Asquith, L. Hirst, and E. Rivett, Effects of ultraviolet radiation as related to the yellowing of wool, Appl. Polymer Symp., 18, 333 (1971). F. Howitt, 12--The yellowing of wool: A survey of the literature, J. Textile Inst. Trans., 55, 136 (1964). J. Marten and J. B. Speakman, Action of heat on wool, Chemistry and Industry, 35, 955 (1957). P. Auer and M. Pailthorpe, The effect of antioxidant/quenchers and a fluorescent whitening agent on the quantum yield of photoinduced degradation of tryptophan in a rigid, oxygen-permeable medium, J. Photochem. Photobid. A: Chem., 86, 267 (1995). H. Carlsaw and J. Jaeger, Conduction of Heat in Solids, 2nd ed. (Oxford University Press, London, 1959), pp. 5O-92. J. Brandrup and E. Immergut, Eds., Polymer Handbook, 3rd ed. (John Wiley & Sons, New York, 1989), p. V/114. W. Morton and J. Hearle, Physical Properties of Textile Fibres (Butterworth and The Textile Institute, London and Manchester, 1962), p. 553. J. Welty, C. Wicks, and R. Wilson, Fundamentals of Momentum, Heat, and Mass Transfer, 3rd ed. (John Wiley & Sons, New York, 1984) pp. 755-780. J. Jachowicz, B. Locke, and R. McMullen, Spectroscopic analysis of photo and thermal degradation of hair, XIII Congreso Latinoamericano e Ibdrico de Quoemicos Cosmdticos, 227 (1997). A. Mehler and W. Knox, The conversion of tryptophan to kynurenine in liver. II. The enzymatic hydrolysis of formylkynurenine,J. Biol. Chem., 187, 431 (1950). S. Benson, The Foundations of Chemical Kinetics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1960), pp. 316-318. W. Newman, G. Cohen, and C. Hayes, A quantitative characterization of combing force,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 24, 773 (1973). M. Garcia and J. Diaz, Combability measurements on human hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 27, 379 (1976). Y. Kamath and Hans-Dietrich Weigmann, Measurement of combing forces,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 37, 11 (1986). J. Jachowicz and M. Helioff, Spadally-resolved combing analysis,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 48, 93 (1997). For a more general discussion on heat transfer through a semi-infinite solid, the reader is referred to: J. Welty, C. Wicks, and R. Wilson, Fundamentals of Momentum, Heat, and Mass Transfer, 3rd ed. (John Wiley & Sons, New York, 1984), pp. 252-286. F. Kreith and M. Bohn, Principles of Heat Transfer, 4th ed. (Harper, New York, 1986), pp. 107-111.
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