OXYRADICALS FROM PHOTOIRRADIATED HAIR 181 as a more effective radical scavenger. Various other factors, including porosity, metal ions and melanin content, can influence the extent of oxygen radical production and photo- degradation of hair. Eumelanin and pheomelanin differ in composition, and regardless of type, the amount varies between individuals in the range of 1-4%. Small amounts of metals are endogenous to hair but are also impacted by exogenous factors such as water hardness. Porosity is mainly a function of environmental stress, such as combing, light, chemical treatment, etc. Our studies demonstrate convenient methods for assessing oxygen radical production in hair and, in combination with other methods, provide the potential to correlate hair damage with oxygen radical production under the influence of various factors. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Financial support from Zotos Corporation is acknowledged. The authors thank Drs. P. and A. Rieger of Brown University for providing the ESR spectrometer and for their helpful suggestions. REFERENCES (1) (2). (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) j. Jachowicz, Hair damage and attempts at its repair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 28, 6 (1984). C. Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, 3rd ed., (Springer-Verlag, New York, 1994), Ch. 1, 2, 5. C. Zviak, and P. R. Dawker, The Science of Hair Care (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1989), pp. 1-44. R. Beyak, G. S. Kass, and C. F. Meyer, Elasticity and tensile properties of human hair. II. Light radiation effects, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 22, 667-678 (1977). C. Pande and J. Jachowiscz, Hair photodamage: Measurement and prevention,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 109 (1993). L. J. Wolfram, "The Reactivity of Human Hair: A Review," in Hair Research: Status and Future Aspects, C. E. Orfanos, W. Montangna, and G. Stuttgen, Eds. (Springer-Verlag, Berlin, 1981), pp. 479-500. E. Togyyesi, Weathering of hair, Cosmet. Toiletr., 98, 29-33 (1983). E. Scott and L.J. Wolfram, The weathering of pigmented hair, Proc 4th International Wool Textile Research ConjCrence, Berkeley, (1970). A. Deftandre, J. C. Garson, and F. Leroy, Photoaging and photoprotection of natural hair, 16th IFSCC Congress Poster Presentations, New York, (1990). C. Dubief, Experiments with hair photodegradation, Cosmet. Toiletr., 107, 95 (1992). M.L. Tare, S.B. Hornby, ¾. K. Kamath, and H. D. Weigmann, Effect of UV exposure on hair properties. Preprints, SCC Annual Scientific Seminar, Cleveland, 1995. J.P. Pavlichko, Sunscreens in hair care products, Drug Cosmet. Ind., 3540 (December 1985). M. M. Grosgrove, M. A. Collins, and R. A. Grant, in First European Biophysics Congress, E. Broda, A. Locker, and H. Springer-Lederer, Eds. (Wiener Medizinischen Academie, Vienna, 1971), pp. 87-93. G.J. Smith, New trends in photobiology: Photodegradation of keratin and other structural proteins, J. Photochem. Photobid. B. Biol., 27, 187-198 (1995). A. Shatkay, Differentiation between various species of free radicals appearing in irradiated keratin, Text. Res. J., 41,975-978 (1971). G. J. Smith, The effect of light at different wavelengths on electron spin resonances in wool, Text. Res. J., 46, 510-513 (1976). A. Shatkay and I. Michaeli, EPR study of wool irradiation with blue light, Photochem. Photobid., 15, 119-138 (1972). I. H. Leaver, Physicochemical study of the cotton cellulose-dimethylolpropyleneurea reaction, Text. Res. J., 38, 729-734 (1968). G. J. Smith, Effect of bound metal ions on photosensitivity of wool, N. Z.J. Sci., 17, 349-350 (1974).
182 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30) (31) (32) (33) (34) (35) (36) (37) (38) (39) (40) (41) G.J. Smith, R. F. C. Claridge, and C.J. Smith, The action spectra of free radicals produced by the irradiation of keratin containing bound iron(III) ions, Photochem. Photobiol., 29, 777-779 (1979). K. D. Goddinger and H. Hi3cker, Photodegradation of tryptophan in wool,J. Soc. Dyers Colour., 113, 350-355 (1997). R. F. Borkman, Ultraviolet action spectrum for tryptophan destruction in aqueous solution, Photochem. Photobiol., 26, 163-166 (1977). W. Korytowski, B. Pilas, and T. Sarna, Photoinduced generation of hydrogen peroxide and hydroxyl radicals in melanins, Photochem. Photobiol., 45, 185-190 (1987). T. Sarna, A. Duleba, W. Korytowski, and H. M. Swartz, Interaction of melanin with oxygen, Arch. Blochem. Biaphys., 200, 140-148 (1980). X. Qu, L. J. Kirschenbaum, and E. T. Borish, Hydroxyterephthalate as a fluorescent probe for hydroxyl radicals: Application to hair melanin, Photochem. Photobiol. 71, 307-3 ! 3 (2000). X. Fang, G. Mark, and C. V. Sonntag, OH radical formation by ultrasound in aqueous solutions. Part I: The chemistry underlying the terephthalate dosimeter, Ultrason. Sonochem., 3, 57-63 (1996). T. J. Mason, J.P. Lorimer, D. M. Bates, and Y. Zhao, Dosimetry in sonochemistry: The use of aqueous terephthalate ion as a fluorescence monitor, Ultrason. Sonochem., 1, S91-S95 (1994). J. C. Barreto, G. S. Smith, N.H. P. Strobel, P. A. McQuillin, and T. A. Miller, Terephthalic acid: A dosimeter for the detection of hydroxyl radicals in vitro, Life Sci., 56, 89-96 (1995). G. R. Buettner and L. W. Oberley, Consideration in the spin-trapping of superoxide and hydroxyl radical in aqueous systems using DMPO, Blochem, Biophys. Res. Cammun., 83, 69-74 (1978). E. Finkelstein, G. M. Rosen, and E. J. Rauckman, Spin trapping of superoxide and hydroxyl radical: Practical aspects, Arch. Biochem. Biophy., 200, 1-16 (1980). S. Persad, I. A. Menon, and H. F. Haberman, Comparison of the effects of UV-visible irradiation of melanins and melanin-hematoporphyrin complexes from human black and red hair, Photochem. Pho- tobiol., 37, 63-68 (1983). T. Sarna and R. C. Sealy, Photo-induced oxygen consumption in melanin systems: Action spectra and quantum yields for eumelanin and synthetic melanin, Photochem. Photobiol., 39, 69-74 (1984). T. Sarna, E. A. Menon, and R. C. Sealy, Photo-induced oxygen consumption in melanin systems. II. Action spectra and quantum yields for pheomelanins, Photochem, Photobiol., 39, 805-809 (1984). R. M. B. Deibel and M. R. Chedekel, Biosynthetic and structural studies on pheomelanin, J. Am. Chem. Sac., 104, 7306-7309 (1982). L.J. Wolfram and L. Albrecht, Chemical- and photo-bleaching of brown and red hair, J. Sac. Cosmet. Chem., 82, 179-191 (1987). E. Hoting, M. Zimmermann, and H. Hi3cker, Photochemical alterations in human hair. Part II. Analysis of melanins,J. Sac. Cosmet. Chem., 46, 181-190 (1995). B. Halliwell and J. M. C. Gutteridge, Free Radicals in Biology and Medicine, 2nd ed. (Oxford University Press, Oxford, 1989), pp. 18-19. G. Suez, P. J. Thornalley, H. A. O. Hill, R. Hems, and J. V. Bannister, The production of free radicals during the autooxidation ofcysteine and their effect on isolated rat hepatocytes, Biachim. Biophys. Acta, 719, 24-31 (1982). K. D. Held and J. E. Biaglow, Mechanisms for the oxygen radical-mediated toxicity of various thiol- containing compounds in cultured mammalian cells, Rad. Res., 139, 15-23 (1994). A. Strasheim and K. Buijs, An infrared study of the oxidation of the disulfide bond in wool, Biochim. Biophys. Acta, 47, 538-539 (1961). V. Signori and D. M. Lewis, FTIR investigation of the damage produced on human hair by weathering and bleaching processes: Implementation of different sampling techniques and data processing, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 19, 1-13 (1997).
Previous Page Next Page