150 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE - association further, the data were stratified into "lean group" and "obese group" based on their BW, and subjected to multiple regression analysis. The age - association in the orbit was much more distinctive in the lean group than in the obese group. Scanning Electron Microscopic Observation of Oil/Wax /Water/ Surfactant System Kaori Ikuta, Tornio likura, Hisayo Ito, Akihito Yokotsuka, Motoji Takahashi Shiseido Life Science Research Center, Shiseido Makeup Product Development Center We observed the internal structure of an oil/ wax/ water / surfactant system using a scanning electron microscope to investigate the relationship between its hardness and state of wax crystal. The molten wax (hydrogenated jojoba oil, ceresin, polyethylene wax, camauba wax, or rnicrocrystalline wax) was cast in a home - made spiral mold of aluminum foil for preparing the test specimen for SEM observation. In hydrogenated jojoba oil a fine frame - like crystal structure, the so - called "card - house structure," was observed but not in other waxes. The mixture of hydrogenated jojoba oil and water showed a few small droplets deposited on the roundish wax frame - like structure. On the other hand, waxes other than hydrogenated jojoba oil did not change their internal structure when they were mixed with water. This result suggested that hydrogenated jojoba oil showed uniquely high affinity for water. In the system of oil, water, surfactant, and various kinds of waxes, their crystal structure, hardness, and the shape of dispersed water particles were remarkably changed with the combination of waxes. In the system with ceresin and carnauba wax, the hardness measured by a card - tension meter was high, and the internal crystal structure was fine and amorphous. The water particle in the ceresin and carnauba wax system had a smaller diameter than that in the system containing hydrogenated jojoba oil. The system containing hydrogenated jojoba oil showed a card house - like wax crystal structure without high hardness. It was considered that the wax crystal structure played an important role in providing hardness and in contributing to the water distribution in the oil / wax / water / surfactant system.

]. Cosrnet. Sci.! 56, 151-152 (March/April 2005) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 26, No. 6, 2004 Evaporation Of A Model Skin Lotion With Beta-Hydroxy The salicylic acid formulation, on the other hand, already at Acids the beginning of the determination consisted of water, particles of the acid solid solution and surfactant vesicles. Abeer Al-Bawab1, Stig E. Friberg2 and Carmen Fusco3 1 Chemistry Department, Faculty of Science, University of Jordan, Amman, Jordan 2 Chemistry Department, Clarkson University, Potsdam, NY, USA 3 Nutrition Department, New York Medical College, NY, USA Two P-hydroxy acids, malic and salicylic acid were combined with a non-ionic surfactant, a commercial pentaoxyethylene sorbitan mono-oleate and water to form a simple model of a skin lotion and the phase diagrams were determined. One emulsion formulation with relative amounts of the three components similar to those in commercial lotions was used to observe microscopically the changes in the emulsion structure during evaporation. The microscope images were subsequently compared to the information from the phase diagram under equilibrium conditions. The results showed the behavior of the systems of the two acids to be distinctly different as exemplified by that of a typical formulation with 3% by weight of acid and 5% of surfactant. The malic acid system consisted of vesicles, exclusively formed by the surfactant and water, in an aqueous molecular solution of the acid and the initial evaporation resulted m an increase of the acid concentration in the aqueous solution to reach 35.5%, before solid crystals of the acid solid solution appeared. In both cases the remaining deposit after total evaporation was particles of a solid acid solution and liquid surfactant. Advances In Sebaceous Gland Research: Potential New Approaches To Acne Management M.M. T. Downie*, R. Guy:j: and T. Kealeyt *Sequenom GmbH, Mendelssohnstr. 15D, 22761 Hamburg, Germany :j:Cambridge Bioclinical Limited, Harston Mill, Harston, Cambridge, CB2 SGG, U.K. tThe Clore Laboratories, University of Buckingham, Hunter Street, Buckingham, MK18 lEG, U.K. Sebaceous gland development and function is regulated by an expanding array of molecules including transcription factors, hormones, retinoids, growth factors, cytokines and nuclear hormone receptors. We have reviewed the literature to present the current understanding of sebaceous gland development and physiology, with particular emphasis on the control of the sebaceous gland and its implications for acne management. Interestingly, retinoids, cytokines and nuclear hormone receptors appear to be promising inhibitors of sebum synthesis, thus offering new approaches to acne management. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the journal of Cosmetic Science. 151