250 1200 - 1000 • 800 C ., 600 • 400 .. • 200 0 0 CONCLUSIONS JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 10 20 30 •upper curve before heating -back curve before heating ---+- upper curve after heating - - -t - - back curve after heating Figure 4. Rheological trend of emulsion 9B. The physicochemical characteristics of hemp-seed oil found were close to those reported in the literature. Hemp-seed oil was stable against oxidation, as shown by the peroxide number below 20 and by the results of MDA and MONO assays. This stability is probably due to the oil's vitamin E content. Emulsions prepared with vegetable oils (olive and hemp-seed oils) were stable and showed a pseudoplastic-Newtonian flux. Some gel-emulsions were obtained that are easily sprayable on the skin and have a pleasant skin feel and texture. REFERENCES (1) P. Ranalli and B. Canarini, Hemp: The return of a prestigious culture, L'lnformatore Agrario, 39, 55-62 (1997). (2) S. Amaducci and G. Venturi, The European project on hemp, L'lnformatore Agrario, 26, 32-33 (1998). (3) G. Venturi and M. T. Amaducci, Will hemp be part of the crops of 2000?, L'lnformatore Agrario, I, 61-65 (1999). (4) C. Meier and V. Mediavilla, Factors influencing the yield and the quality of hemp (CannabiJ Jativa 1.) essential oil,]. Int. Hemp An., 1, 16-20 (1998). (5) P.-G. Sator, J.B. Schmidt, and H. Honigsmann, Comparison of epidermal hydration and skin surface lipids in healthy individuals and in patients with atopic dermatitis, J. Am. Acad. Dermatol., 48, 352-358 (2003). (6) D. M. Alden, J. L. Proops, and P. W. Gay, Industrial hemp's double dividend: A study for the USA, Ecol. Econ., 25, 291-301 (1998). (7) B. D. B. D. Oomah, M. M. Busson, D. V. Godfrey, and C. G. Drover, Characteristic of hemp (CannabiJ Jativa L.) seed oil, Food Chem., 76, 33-43 (2002). (8) M. D. Salvador, F. Aranda, S. Gomez-Alonso, and G. Fregapane, Cornicabra virgin olive oil: A study of five crop seasons. Composition, quality and oxidative stability, Food Chem., 74, 267-274 (2001). (9) Official Pharmacopeia of the Italian Republic, ed. X (Rome, 1998), pp. 80-81. (10) P. Cappelli and V. Vannucchi, Food chemistry: Conservation and transformation, Zanichelli (1994).
HEMP-SEED AND OLIVE OILS 251 (11) S. Chouchane, Etude des proprietes electrophiles generees en milieu aqueux aere, par des poussieres d'hematite ou de magnetite: Relation probable avec le cancer bronchopulmonaire, Doctoral Thesis, University Pierre et Marie Curie, Soutenue, France, 1996. (12) Harry's Cosmetology, 7th ed., J.B. Wilkinson and J. Moor, Eds. (1982). (13) M. Korhonen, H. Niskanen, J. Kiesvaara, and J. Yliruusi, Determination of optimal combination of surfactants in creams using rheology measurements, Int. J. Pharrn., 197, 143-151 (2000). (14) M. Korhonen, J. Lehtonen, L. Hellen, J. Hirvonen, and J. Yliruusi, Rheological properties of three component creams containing sorbitan monoesters as surfactants, Int.]. Pharrn., 247, 103-114 (2002). (15) M.A. R. Martinez, M. Murtoz de Bernardes, M. E. Morales Hernandez, and V. Gallarolo Lara, Influ ence of the concentration of a gelling agent and the type of surfactant on the rheological characteristics of oleogels, Il Farmaco, 58, 1289-1294 (2003). (16) H. Beck and M. Bracker, Standard protocol: In vitro absorption/penetration through porcine skin, Cosrnesi Dermatologica, 61, 31-40 (1997). (1 7) M. Bruz, I. Dahlquist, and B. Gruyberger, Contact allergy to dichlorinated methylisothiazolinone, Contact Dermatitis, 20, 219-239 (1989). (18) J. Connor et al., Mutagenicity of cosmetic products containing Kathan®, Food Chern. Toxicol., 35, 180 0997). (19) P. Sartorelli, C. Aprea, A. Cenni, M. T. Novelli, D. Orsi, and S. Palmi, Prediction of percutaneous absorption from physicochemical data: A model based on data of in vitro experiments, Ann. Occup. Hyg., 42, 267-276 (1998). (20) M. E. Carlotti, M. Gallarate, M. Trotta, and V. Canova, On the use of saccharose esters in the preparation of 0/W emulsions with liquid crystal, J. Disp. Techn. Sci., 21, 31-48 (2000). (21) H. Baal and G. Vianen, The sacchatose esters in cosmetics, Cosmetic News, 112, 33-37 (1997).
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