ANTIOXIDANT ABILITY AND STABILITY STUDIES OF 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID 241 shows the 3-D mesh plot of the RSM model. The surface curve of the fi gure represented the HPLC peak area ratio of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and methylparaben. A larger peak area ratio indicated that more 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid was detected. The highest calcu- lated point of the surface curve in Figure 5 was 3.133, which occurred at 36.3°C and pH 5.46. When cosmetics were stored at the optimal conditions, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid had the best stability. Because this compound was very sensitive to changes in pH, buffers would be required for cosmetics to maintain the optimal pH (5.46). On the other hand, the stability of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid was not signifi cantly affected by temperature. These results would be useful for cosmetic manufacturers who could use 3-O-ethyl ascor- bic acid in their products. CONCLUSIONS Based on the reducing and DPPH radical scavenging ability analysis results, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid is a good antioxidant. Moreover, this compound inhibited the activity of tyrosinase to prevent the formation of melanin. Therefore, it could be used in cosmetics Figur e 5. Response surface plot showing the effect of temperature (°C) and pH on the stability of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid. Table III Regression Coeffi cients of the 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Stability RSM Model Regression coeffi cient Estimate Intercept, β0 -3.8093 β1 0.1063 β11 -0.0004 β2 1.8378 β22 -0.1222 β12 0.0139
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 242 as a whitening ingredient. The optimal conditions to retain the best stability were suc- cessfully determined using a RSM regression model. Because changes in pH signifi cantly affected the stability of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, buffers would be required to maintain the optimal pH (5.46). This ascorbic acid derivative is a stable and effective component that could be safely used in most cosmetics. REFERENCES (1) M. Yoshimura, Y. Watanabe, K. Kasai, J. Yamakoshi, and T. Koga, Inhibitory effect of an ellagic acid- rich pomegranate extract on tyrosinase activity and ultraviolet-induced pigmentation, Biosci. Biotech. Bioch., 69, 2368–2373 (2005). (2) P. G. Humbert, M. Haftek, P. Creidi, C. Lapière, B. Nusgens, A. Richard, D. Schmitt, A. Rougier, and H. Zahouani, Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural eval- uation: double-blind study vs. placebo, Exp. Dermatol., 12, 237–244 (2003). (3) J. Y. Lin, M. A. Selim, C. R. Shea, J. M. Grichnik, M. M. Omar, N. A. Monteiro-Riviere, and S. R. Pinnell, UV photoprotection by combination topical antioxidants vitamin C and vitamin E, J. Am. Acad. Dermatol., 48, 866–874 (2003). (4) Y. Nihro, S. Sogawa, T. Sudo, T. Miki, H. Matsumoto, and T. Satoh, 3-O-Alkylascorbic acids as free radical quenchers. II inhibitory effects on some lipid peroxidation models, Chem. Pharm. Bull., 39, 1731–1735 (1991). (5) J. Hsu, 3-O-Ethyl ascorbic aci d: a stable, vitamin C-derived agent for skin whitening, Cosm & Toil, 128, 676 (2013). (6) N. P. J. Stamford, Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its de- rivatives, J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 11, 310–317 (2012). (7) G. C. Yen, P. D. Duh, and H. L . Tsai, Antioxidant and pro-oxidant properties of ascorbic acid and gallic acid, Food Chem., 79, 307–313 (2002). (8) F. Solano, S. Briganti, M. Pic ardo, and G. Ghanem, Hypopigmenting agents: an updated review on biological, chemical and clinical aspects, Pigment Cell Res., 19, 550–571 (2006). (9) C. Olivares and F. Solano, New insights into the active site structure and catalytic mechanism of ty- rosinase and its related proteins, Pigm. Cell Melanoma. R. 22, 750–760 (2009). (10) Y. S. Chen, S. M. Lee, C. C. Lin, C. Y. Liu, M. C. Wu, and W. L. Shi, Kinetic study on the tyrosinase and melanin formation inhibitory activities of carthamus yellow isolated from Carthamus tinctorius L, J. Biosci. Bioeng., 115, 242–245 (2013). (11) L. G. Fenoll, M. J. Penalver, J. N. Rodriguez-Lopez, R. Varon, F. Garcia-Canovas, and J. Tudela, Ty- rosinase kinetics: discrimination between two models to explain the oxidation mechanism of monophe- nol and diphenol substrates, Int. J. Biochem. Cell Biol., 36, 235–246 (2004). (12) W. C. Liao, W. H. Wu, P. C. T sai, H. F. Wang, Y. H. Liu, and C. F. Chan, Kinetics of ergothioneine inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase. Appl. Biochem. Biotechnol., 166, 259–267 (2012). (13) T. Pillaiyar, M. Manickam, an d V. Namasivayam, Skin whitening agents: medicinal chemistry perspec- tive of tyrosinase inhibitors. J. Enzym. Inhib. Med. Chem., 32, 403–425 (2017). (14) N. P. J. Stamford, Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its de- rivatives, J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 11, 310–317 (2012). (15) W. Y. Huang, P. C. Lee, L. K. Huang, L. P. Lu, and W. C. Liao, Stability studies of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside in cosmetic lotion using surface response methodology, Bioorg. Med. Chem. Lett., 23, 1583– 1587 (2013). (16) N. Singh and P. S. Rajini, Fr ee radical scavenging activity of an aqueous extract of potato peel, Food Chem., 85, 611–616 (2004). (17) C. F. Chan, C. Y. Lien, Y. C. Lai, C. L. Huang, and W. C. Liao, Infl uence of purple sweet potato extracts on the UV absorption properties of a cosmetic cream, J. Cosmet. Sci., 61, 333–341 (2010). (18) L. S. Lai, S. T. Chou, and W. W. Chao, Studies on the antioxidative activities of Hsian-tsao (Mesona procumbens Hemsl) leaf gum, J. Agric. Food Chem., 49, 963–968 (2001). (19) Y. L. Lee, M. T. Yen, and J. L. Mau, Antioxidant properties of various extracts from, Hypsizigus mar- moreus, Food Chem., 104, 1–9 (2007). (20) I. Kubo, Q. X. Chen, K. I. Ni hei, J. S. Calderon, and C. L. Cespedes, Tyrosinase inhibition kinetics of anisic acid, Z. Naturforsch. C, 58, 713–718 (2003).
Previous Page Next Page