EFFECT OF COSMETIC EMULSIONS ON STRATUM CORNEUM 115 DISCUSSION It is interesting to note that of the preparations tested, cold cream E retarded moisture loss to the greatest degree (-27 per cent), while hand cream C, with a high humectant content, accelerated moisture loss to the greatest degree (56 per cent). Eleven of the twenty-one products tested accelerated moisture loss to an appreciable degree (over 5 per cent). Four products had very little effect on moisture loss and only six emulsions retarded moisture loss to any extent. Thus, of these 21 emulsions sold to the public as skin softening preparations, only six could be expected to lead to an increase in moisture content of the stratum corneum with attendant increase in softness and flexibility. TABLE 4--THE EFFECT OF COSMETIC EMULSIONS ON MOISTURE Loss FROM THE SKIN Average Moisture Loss * Sub- Upper Lower Product ject Arm Arm D, % D•, % Net Effect Nutritive cream A CF 12.2 13.8 13 17 4% reduction Moisturizing lotion B GB 16.2 20.7 28 25 3% increase Hand cream C CF 6.7 11.6 73 17 56% increase Foundation lotion D FM 8.2 9.7 18.5 26 7.5% reduction Cold cream E CK 10.3 9.4 -9 18 27% reduction Night cream F GB 22.3 31.3 40 25 15% increase Night cream G FM 24.4 26.9 10 26 16% reduction Night cream H GB 23.8 34.0 43 25 18% increase Moisturizing lotion I CK 13.1 14.7 12 18 6% reduction Night cream J CF 26.2 27.4 5 17 12% reduction Moisturizing gel K CF 15.4 20.1 30 17 13% increase Night cream L CK 11.2 13.9 24 18 6% increase Night cream M LF 9.7 11.8 22 17 5% increase Hand cream N CF 11.0 14.9 35 17 18% increase Hand lotion O CK 7.2 10.5 46 18 28% increase Lubricating lotion P LF 10.4 13.2 27 17 10% increase Hand lotion Q FM 8.7 11.6 34 26 8% increase Hand lotion R FM 11.3 15.9 41 26 15% increase Hand lotion S CF 13.8 17.7 28 17 11% increase Moisturizing lotion T CK 9.5 9.5 0 18 18% reduction Moisturizing lotion U FM 6.7 8.2 22 26 4% reduction * Average of 10 readings. It is also of interest to note that six hand preparations--which are expressly sold to soften the skin--all accelerate the rate at which moisture is lost to the atmosphere. Previous work has shown that many of the nonwater-soluble oils used in cosmetic emulsions reduce the rate of moisture loss from the skin. The present study illustrates, however, how the beneficial effects of an oil as regards its ability to regulate moisture loss can be negated by the addition of emulsifiers and humectants. Further work is needed to study the results of different ratios of the
116 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS various types of emulsifiers and oils to establish the manner in which they effect the moisture loss from the skin. When this is done perhaps we will be able to develop emulsions which act so as to build up moisture and soften the skin. Here, again, this study is designed as a laboratory test for accurately measuring one specific property of a cosmetic cream or lotion. A great deal of additional study and work will be needed before any clear-cut conclusions can be drawn. The .work to date indicates that many humectants and hand lotions tend to increase the rate at which the skin dries out and suggests that they are not particularly effective in softening the skin REFERENCES (I) Goodman, L. S., and Gilman, A., "The Pharmacological Basis of Therapeutics," New York, The MacMillan Co. (1955), pp. 1017-1019. (2) Blank, I. H., 7. Invest. Dermatol., 18, 433 (1952). (3) Peck, S. M., and Glick, A. W., 7. $oc. Cosmetic Chemists, 7, 530 (1956). (4) Blank, I. H., Proc. $ci. Sec. Toilet Goods dssoc., No. 23, 19 (1955). (5) Rothman, S., "Physiology and Biochemistry of the Skin," Chicage, The University of Chicago Press (1954). (6) Mali, J. W., 7. Invest. Dermatol., 27, 451 (1956). (7) Flesch, P., Proc. $ci. Sec. Toilet Goods dssoc., No. 29, 27 (1958). (8) Blank, I. H., and Shappirio, E. B., 7. Invest. Dermatol., 25, 391 (1955). (9) Flesch, P., and Esoda, E. C. J., Ibid., 28, 5 (1957). (10) Gaul, E., and Underwood, G. B., Ibid., 19, 9 (1952). (11) Powers, D. H., and Fox, C., Proc. $ci. Sec. Toilet Goods dssoc., No. 28, 21 (1957). THE ROLE OF DETERGENTS IN SHAMPOOS By DonALD H. Pow.Rs and CHARL.S Fox* Presented September 17, 1958, International Symposium, Copenhagen, Denmark THE IMPOgTANCE of detergents in shampoos is clearly indicated by the fact that they are used in the great majority of all important shampoos sold in the American market. It has been claimed that they alone are responsible for the growth and acceptance of shampoos to the point where their annual sales are over one hundred and twenty million dollars. It is particularly interesting to note that the formulation of these shampoos depends not only on the detergent as the active ingredient but the addition of conditioners, foam-builders, viscosity builders, delicate fragrances--all are most important in making them cosmetically acceptable. In this paper a study of the detergents alone uncompounded is made to determine what role they play in producing a cosmetically acceptable shampoo. It must be re-emphasized that shampoos are not just cleansers * Warner-Lambert Research Institute, Morris Plains, N.J.
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EFFECT OF COSMETIC EMULSIONS ON STRATUM CORNEUM 115 DISCUSSION It is interesting to note that of the preparations tested, cold cream E retarded moisture loss to the greatest degree (-27 per cent), while hand cream C, with a high humectant content, accelerated moisture loss to the greatest degree (56 per cent). Eleven of the twenty-one products tested accelerated moisture loss to an appreciable degree (over 5 per cent). Four products had very little effect on moisture loss and only six emulsions retarded moisture loss to any extent. Thus, of these 21 emulsions sold to the public as skin softening preparations, only six could be expected to lead to an increase in moisture content of the stratum corneum with attendant increase in softness and flexibility. TABLE 4--THE EFFECT OF COSMETIC EMULSIONS ON MOISTURE Loss FROM THE SKIN Average Moisture Loss * Sub- Upper Lower Product ject Arm Arm D, % D•, % Net Effect Nutritive cream A CF 12.2 13.8 13 17 4% reduction Moisturizing lotion B GB 16.2 20.7 28 25 3% increase Hand cream C CF 6.7 11.6 73 17 56% increase Foundation lotion D FM 8.2 9.7 18.5 26 7.5% reduction Cold cream E CK 10.3 9.4 -9 18 27% reduction Night cream F GB 22.3 31.3 40 25 15% increase Night cream G FM 24.4 26.9 10 26 16% reduction Night cream H GB 23.8 34.0 43 25 18% increase Moisturizing lotion I CK 13.1 14.7 12 18 6% reduction Night cream J CF 26.2 27.4 5 17 12% reduction Moisturizing gel K CF 15.4 20.1 30 17 13% increase Night cream L CK 11.2 13.9 24 18 6% increase Night cream M LF 9.7 11.8 22 17 5% increase Hand cream N CF 11.0 14.9 35 17 18% increase Hand lotion O CK 7.2 10.5 46 18 28% increase Lubricating lotion P LF 10.4 13.2 27 17 10% increase Hand lotion Q FM 8.7 11.6 34 26 8% increase Hand lotion R FM 11.3 15.9 41 26 15% increase Hand lotion S CF 13.8 17.7 28 17 11% increase Moisturizing lotion T CK 9.5 9.5 0 18 18% reduction Moisturizing lotion U FM 6.7 8.2 22 26 4% reduction * Average of 10 readings. It is also of interest to note that six hand preparations--which are expressly sold to soften the skin--all accelerate the rate at which moisture is lost to the atmosphere. Previous work has shown that many of the nonwater-soluble oils used in cosmetic emulsions reduce the rate of moisture loss from the skin. The present study illustrates, however, how the beneficial effects of an oil as regards its ability to regulate moisture loss can be negated by the addition of emulsifiers and humectants. Further work is needed to study the results of different ratios of the
116 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS various types of emulsifiers and oils to establish the manner in which they effect the moisture loss from the skin. When this is done perhaps we will be able to develop emulsions which act so as to build up moisture and soften the skin. Here, again, this study is designed as a laboratory test for accurately measuring one specific property of a cosmetic cream or lotion. A great deal of additional study and work will be needed before any clear-cut conclusions can be drawn. The .work to date indicates that many humectants and hand lotions tend to increase the rate at which the skin dries out and suggests that they are not particularly effective in softening the skin REFERENCES (I) Goodman, L. S., and Gilman, A., "The Pharmacological Basis of Therapeutics," New York, The MacMillan Co. (1955), pp. 1017-1019. (2) Blank, I. H., 7. Invest. Dermatol., 18, 433 (1952). (3) Peck, S. M., and Glick, A. W., 7. $oc. Cosmetic Chemists, 7, 530 (1956). (4) Blank, I. H., Proc. $ci. Sec. Toilet Goods dssoc., No. 23, 19 (1955). (5) Rothman, S., "Physiology and Biochemistry of the Skin," Chicage, The University of Chicago Press (1954). (6) Mali, J. W., 7. Invest. Dermatol., 27, 451 (1956). (7) Flesch, P., Proc. $ci. Sec. Toilet Goods dssoc., No. 29, 27 (1958). (8) Blank, I. H., and Shappirio, E. B., 7. Invest. Dermatol., 25, 391 (1955). (9) Flesch, P., and Esoda, E. C. J., Ibid., 28, 5 (1957). (10) Gaul, E., and Underwood, G. B., Ibid., 19, 9 (1952). (11) Powers, D. H., and Fox, C., Proc. $ci. Sec. Toilet Goods dssoc., No. 28, 21 (1957). THE ROLE OF DETERGENTS IN SHAMPOOS By DonALD H. Pow.Rs and CHARL.S Fox* Presented September 17, 1958, International Symposium, Copenhagen, Denmark THE IMPOgTANCE of detergents in shampoos is clearly indicated by the fact that they are used in the great majority of all important shampoos sold in the American market. It has been claimed that they alone are responsible for the growth and acceptance of shampoos to the point where their annual sales are over one hundred and twenty million dollars. It is particularly interesting to note that the formulation of these shampoos depends not only on the detergent as the active ingredient but the addition of conditioners, foam-builders, viscosity builders, delicate fragrances--all are most important in making them cosmetically acceptable. In this paper a study of the detergents alone uncompounded is made to determine what role they play in producing a cosmetically acceptable shampoo. It must be re-emphasized that shampoos are not just cleansers * Warner-Lambert Research Institute, Morris Plains, N.J.

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