USE IN COSMETICS OF FURYLGLYCINE 77 REFERENCES (1) Minor, V., ?erh. l. Internat. Neur. Kongr., 341 (1932) Zblt. Haut u. Geschl., 44, 727 (1933) (2) Manuila,L., Dermatologica, 100, 304 (1950). (3) Manuila, L., and Islet, H., Ibid., 102, 302 (1951). (4) Brun, R., and Manuila, L., Ibid., 104, 267 (1952). (5) Brun, R., and Grasset, N., Ibid., 112, 357 (1956). (6) Brun, R, and Fayre, F., Ibid., 108, 257 (1954). (7) Brun, R., and Domine, E., Atcta Dermato-F'enereol., 38, 91 (1958). (8) Brun, R., and Hunziker, N., Dermatologica, 110, 245 (1955). (9) Brun, R., and N. Hunziker, Ibid., 114, 177 (1957). THE USE IN COSMETICS OF A NEW SYNTHETIC AMINO ACID: FURYLGLYCINE By B. Cocc^, P. RovEsT and G. Presented September 10, 1958, International Symposium, Milan, Italy RECE•TI•¾ (1) wE REPORTEl) on the action of three new synthetic amino acids: d/-1-amino cyclohexane carboxylic acid, d/-1-amino 3- methyl carboxylic acid and d/-1-amino cyclopentane carboxylic acid. The results obtained have induced us to continue further studies in this field. This time we have kept in mind the economic factor which plays an important part in our industry. The studies have been directed toward the synthesis of an amino acid, furylglycine, whose basic material, furfural, is economically produced. Furfural is easily obtained from a variety of waste products, such as bran, straw, olive husks, wild plants, etc. On the other hahd, the chemical structure of furylglycine is of particular interest because there is a heterocyclic nucleus with a lipophilic charac- teristic linked to the amino and carboxylic functions (which are definitely hydrophilic). We have also studied the action on the skin of the intermediate product in the synthesis of furylglycine (I), that is 5-furylhydantoin (II). I II Quite a number of research workers having observed the close relation- ship between hydantoins and alpha amino acids, have suggested that hydantoic acids and hydantoins might be present in proteins. * Piazza Amendola 1, Milan, Italy. Instituto di Ricerche su Derivati Vegetali, Milan, Italy.

78 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS The literature on this subject contains a number of interesting ref- erences. Both allantoin and derivatives of hydantoin have been used as healing agents. Also remarkable is the stimulating action produced by these chemicals in the growth of healthy tissue and the solvent action on necrotic tissue. You will find that the initial research on the amino acid and protein cosmetic field was carried out by the French School, followed by the Italian School which recently has been conducting research work in this field. Essentially, amino cosmetics in their cutaneous action closely follow the principle on which is based what we call "isodermia" which considers the biochemical and physical-chemical properties of the skin in relation to the absorption of compositions of mixtures to be absorbed by the skin. More specifically, amino cosmetics bring a special contribution to what we call "istofilia " the necessary affinity ,which must exist between cos- metic raw materials and physiological and constituent properties of tissues. The protein balance is of fundamental importance for the skin, not only in tissue growth, in production of specific proteins, hormones, enzymes, but also for the close relationship existing, for example, between lack of proteins and cutaneous dehydration, between lack of lipoproteins and dry skin and between a well-nourished skin and a healthy skin. Like all proteins which constitute living matter, cutaneous proteins as well are not static but dynamic structures in continuous evolution and readjustment of the constituent amino acids. And as in alimentation an indispensable minimum of proteins is necessary for sustenance, for the growth and for the energy expenditure, in order to compensate the daily consumption of amino acids, in the same way amino acid cosmetics represent an exogenous nourishment of the skin and an outside provision of nitrogenous substances needed to maintain and inte- grate its normal protein balance. Treatments and beauty products which are intended to effectively "nourish" the skin cannot obviously disregard (as mainly happens today) the nitrogenous component it is for this reason that they have to aim at a balanced composition. Albert Fisher's studies (2) which are of fundamental importance, have demonstrated that the tissue cells are unable to demolish the blood plasma protein, while directly utilizing the amino acids for the synthesis of albu- minolds necessary to create cytoplasm. The use o'f the essential amino acids as predigested foods administered both parenterally and internally has long been successful in healing and substitution therapy. In dermatology a new use has been discovered. It is well known that amino acids, both in their biological complex and