116 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS various types of emulsifiers and oils to establish the manner in which they effect the moisture loss from the skin. When this is done perhaps we will be able to develop emulsions which act so as to build up moisture and soften the skin. Here, again, this study is designed as a laboratory test for accurately measuring one specific property of a cosmetic cream or lotion. A great deal of additional study and work will be needed before any clear-cut conclusions can be drawn. The .work to date indicates that many humectants and hand lotions tend to increase the rate at which the skin dries out and suggests that they are not particularly effective in softening the skin REFERENCES (I) Goodman, L. S., and Gilman, A., "The Pharmacological Basis of Therapeutics," New York, The MacMillan Co. (1955), pp. 1017-1019. (2) Blank, I. H., 7. Invest. Dermatol., 18, 433 (1952). (3) Peck, S. M., and Glick, A. W., 7. $oc. Cosmetic Chemists, 7, 530 (1956). (4) Blank, I. H., Proc. $ci. Sec. Toilet Goods dssoc., No. 23, 19 (1955). (5) Rothman, S., "Physiology and Biochemistry of the Skin," Chicage, The University of Chicago Press (1954). (6) Mali, J. W., 7. Invest. Dermatol., 27, 451 (1956). (7) Flesch, P., Proc. $ci. Sec. Toilet Goods dssoc., No. 29, 27 (1958). (8) Blank, I. H., and Shappirio, E. B., 7. Invest. Dermatol., 25, 391 (1955). (9) Flesch, P., and Esoda, E. C. J., Ibid., 28, 5 (1957). (10) Gaul, E., and Underwood, G. B., Ibid., 19, 9 (1952). (11) Powers, D. H., and Fox, C., Proc. $ci. Sec. Toilet Goods dssoc., No. 28, 21 (1957). THE ROLE OF DETERGENTS IN SHAMPOOS By DonALD H. Pow.Rs and CHARL.S Fox* Presented September 17, 1958, International Symposium, Copenhagen, Denmark THE IMPOgTANCE of detergents in shampoos is clearly indicated by the fact that they are used in the great majority of all important shampoos sold in the American market. It has been claimed that they alone are responsible for the growth and acceptance of shampoos to the point where their annual sales are over one hundred and twenty million dollars. It is particularly interesting to note that the formulation of these shampoos depends not only on the detergent as the active ingredient but the addition of conditioners, foam-builders, viscosity builders, delicate fragrances--all are most important in making them cosmetically acceptable. In this paper a study of the detergents alone uncompounded is made to determine what role they play in producing a cosmetically acceptable shampoo. It must be re-emphasized that shampoos are not just cleansers * Warner-Lambert Research Institute, Morris Plains, N.J.

116 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS various types of emulsifiers and oils to establish the manner in which they effect the moisture loss from the skin. When this is done perhaps we will be able to develop emulsions which act so as to build up moisture and soften the skin. Here, again, this study is designed as a laboratory test for accurately measuring one specific property of a cosmetic cream or lotion. A great deal of additional study and work will be needed before any clear-cut conclusions can be drawn. The .work to date indicates that many humectants and hand lotions tend to increase the rate at which the skin dries out and suggests that they are not particularly effective in softening the skin REFERENCES (I) Goodman, L. S., and Gilman, A., "The Pharmacological Basis of Therapeutics," New York, The MacMillan Co. (1955), pp. 1017-1019. (2) Blank, I. H., 7. Invest. Dermatol., 18, 433 (1952). (3) Peck, S. M., and Glick, A. W., 7. $oc. Cosmetic Chemists, 7, 530 (1956). (4) Blank, I. H., Proc. $ci. Sec. Toilet Goods dssoc., No. 23, 19 (1955). (5) Rothman, S., "Physiology and Biochemistry of the Skin," Chicage, The University of Chicago Press (1954). (6) Mali, J. W., 7. Invest. Dermatol., 27, 451 (1956). (7) Flesch, P., Proc. $ci. Sec. Toilet Goods dssoc., No. 29, 27 (1958). (8) Blank, I. H., and Shappirio, E. B., 7. Invest. Dermatol., 25, 391 (1955). (9) Flesch, P., and Esoda, E. C. J., Ibid., 28, 5 (1957). (10) Gaul, E., and Underwood, G. B., Ibid., 19, 9 (1952). (11) Powers, D. H., and Fox, C., Proc. $ci. Sec. Toilet Goods dssoc., No. 28, 21 (1957). THE ROLE OF DETERGENTS IN SHAMPOOS By DonALD H. Pow.Rs and CHARL.S Fox* Presented September 17, 1958, International Symposium, Copenhagen, Denmark THE IMPOgTANCE of detergents in shampoos is clearly indicated by the fact that they are used in the great majority of all important shampoos sold in the American market. It has been claimed that they alone are responsible for the growth and acceptance of shampoos to the point where their annual sales are over one hundred and twenty million dollars. It is particularly interesting to note that the formulation of these shampoos depends not only on the detergent as the active ingredient but the addition of conditioners, foam-builders, viscosity builders, delicate fragrances--all are most important in making them cosmetically acceptable. In this paper a study of the detergents alone uncompounded is made to determine what role they play in producing a cosmetically acceptable shampoo. It must be re-emphasized that shampoos are not just cleansers * Warner-Lambert Research Institute, Morris Plains, N.J.