SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS OF GREAT BRITAIN 45 SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS OF GREAT BRITAIN Diploma Examination BRUNEL COLLEGE PAPER I (Monday, 4th June 1962) Candidates should answer FIVE questions. There should be no attempt to answer more than five questions. Where possible (i) express reactions by equations, (ii) give simple sketches of apparatus used, and (iii) full explanation of symbols and equations should be given. (Acceleration due to gravity, g = 981 cm/sec/sec) 1. Oils and fats which are extracted from vegetable and animal sources are esters of g!ycerol and various fatty acids. Comment on the nature and properties of these fatty acids, and show how these properties can control the properties of the oil or fat. 2. Write short notes on TWO methods used to determine the physical properties of oils or fats. How do waxes differ from oils and fats ? Discuss the practical application of waxes in cold and cleansing creams. 3. What are the four classes of surface active agents ? Give examples of each class and show how these materials can be synthesised. Discuss the properties of examples of each class in relation to theft practical application. 4. Recommend materials for the development of (a) a medicated shampoo, (b) a cream shampoo, (c) a conditioning shampoo, and (d) a hair bleach. What laboratory and practical assessment methods would you employ to show that the above products were satisfactory ? 5. What is surface tension ? Describe the capillary rise method for the determination of surface tension. The surface tension of carbon disulphide at 19.4øC, is 33.62 dynes/cm. What is the radius of the capillary tube used in the experiment if the density of carbon disulphide at 19.4øC is 1.264 g/ml and the mean equilibrium height of liquid in the capillary tube is 4.203 cm. 6. Describe the effect of adding electrolyte to an aqueous solution of a surface active agent on (a) the surface tension, and (b) the criticial micelie concentration.

4(• JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 7. Write short notes on THREE of the following :-- (a) The effect of temperature on surface tension. (b) Wetting and spreading. (c) Surface pressure. (d) Why has the expected use of cationic surface active agents as deter- gents never been fulfilled ? PAPER II (Wednesday, 6th ,June 1962) Candidates should answer FIVE questions. There should be no attempt to answer more than five questions. Where possible (i) express reactions by equations, (if) give simple sketches of apparatus used, and (iii) full explanation of symbols and equations should be given. 1. Write notes on the basic ingredients of toothpaste including their function, the basis of their selection and levels normally employed in toothpaste. 2. Write short notes on TWO of the following topics :-- (a) Factors which determine the rheological properties of emulsion systems. (b) Factors which control emulsion creaming and methods of minimising this phenomenon. (c) The beeswax/borax emulsion system and its application in formu- lation of cosmetic creams. 3. Discuss the formulation of :-- (a) An O/W hand cream, (b) A W/O men's hairdressing: giving a basic formula for each type of product, and indicating the function of ingredients in formulae quoted, with respect to the product user properties required. 4. Discuss the modern theories of emulsion stability with particular respect to the formulation of O/W and W/O cosmetic emulsions. 5. Describe the main methods by which essential oils, concretes and absolutes are obtained from plants. Briefly describe the raw materials of animal origin. 6. Discuss the problems encountered in formulating suitable perfumes for, (a) aerosols, (b) alcoholic perfumes (handkerchief perfumes and toilet waters), (c) creams and lotions, (d) lipsticks, and (e) toilet soaps.